Biodynamic Farming
Biodynamics is a holistic, ecological, and ethical approach to farming, gardening, food, and nutrition.
Biodynamics is rooted in the work of philosopher and scientist Dr. Rudolf Steiner, whose 1924 lectures to farmers opened a new way to integrate scientific understanding with a recognition of spirit in nature. Biodynamics has continued to develop and evolve since the 1920s through the collaboration of many farmers and researchers. Around the world, biodynamics is alive in thousands of thriving gardens, farms, vineyards, ranches, and orchards. The principles and practices of biodynamics can be applied anywhere food is grown, with thoughtful adaptation to scale, landscape, climate, and culture.
Basic Concepts of Biodynamics
What is life? What is intelligence? What is force? These are the problems to the solution of which the ancients consecrated their temples of learning. Who shall say that they did not answer those questions? Who would recognize the answers if given? Is it possible that under the symbols of alchemy and astrology lies concealed a wisdom so abstruse that the mind of this race is not qualified to conceive its principles?
Manly Palmer Hall
Plants in Biodynamic Farming
In order to appreciate fully the reasons for various bio-dynamic practices we have to build up a rather more vivid concept of plants than is customary in conventional thought. They are usually regarded as mechanisms subject only to the same laws as hold good in a physics or chemistry laboratory or in the working of a machine. People seem to be so dazzled by the brilliance of the research into such things as the genetic code and single cell metabolism and by the ideas put forward to explain them, that certain vital more holistic aspects have been overlooked. Each new discovery, though it may appear to provide an answer to a question, more often than not poses further questions. The frontier of the unknown may be pushed back a little, but it remains as impenetrable as ever. Although the processes of growth, reproduction and decay are all deemed to be controlled by various communication networks which switch genes on and off, one is still left with the old Latin conundrum, Quis custodiet ipsos custodies? (Who is there to control the controllers?). Who or what is there to read the genetic code and operate the switchboard?
Let us begin by comparing a rock or a crystal with a plant, and for the sake of simplicity we will take an annual plant—it is not too difficult to apply the same concepts to perennials or even to trees. To make the imagination more realistic we might choose at random a definite mineral, say quartz, and a definite plant, say a broad bean. On the one hand the quartz crystal gives us the strong impression that its shape, its beautiful form, has been imposed on it by influences coming from outside; it is a piece of finished work, and can only be changed by some external physical force. The form of the bean plant on the other hand, though just as beautiful in its own way, has quite a different quality; it is never precisely the same from one moment to another, and this continuous change arises from out of itself. What we see at any given time is like one frame of a long ciné film comprising a rhythmic pattern of development, fruition and decay. Even this pattern does not quite represent the whole broad bean which has connections with all past generations and also with the generations still to come. Instead of a static entity like the crystal, we have in the bean plant a centre or focus of highly organised activities. Together with a few of today's leading biologists, we are almost irresistibly led to postulate the supersensible presence of a body of organising formative forces: Rudolf Steiner called this the etheric body. Just as any separate piece of matter has a centre of gravity derived from the whole gravity field of the earth, so every living creature acquires an etheric body derived from the earth's etheric field; this has been described by H. Poppelbaum as a morphogenetic field and can be seen as the link between material manifestation and the higher spiritual worlds beyond. This whole complex of activity, this weaving, vibrant, pulsating essence
as Rudolf Steiner put it, is the sphere in which homoeopathic remedies and substances in very high dilutions are effective.
The etheric body of an individual plant could perhaps be seen as the switchboard operator which earlier we failed to find. It interprets the general pattern of the particular plant and modifies or adapts it to fit into the individual niches in which single specimens are growing. It heals any wounds which may occur, and reacts in the most favourable way to any changes, physical or supersensible, earthly or cosmic, which may take place in the environment. The patterns themselves, the ciné films
, have their home in the next spiritual plane above the etheric, usually known as the astral.
Continuing our imagination of the bean plant, let us now look at a plant as it stands with its roots reaching down into the earth, its leaves spread to receive the incoming cosmic stream, its flowers opening up to the heavens and to the insect world. Just as the roots merge almost imperceptibly into the soil, into the element earth and water, so leaves and blossoms with their continual interchange of substances can be thought of as merging with the elements air and fire (warmth). The former feel the pulse of the earth's rhythms, the latter connect with the influences of the starry world, with the circling paths of the planets. Selflessly each individual plant passes through time, performing its own special part as a member of the plant kingdom in the cosmic task of giving. Through photosynthesis plants remove carbon dioxide from the air and give out oxygen in its place for the benefit of the earth as a whole and for man and animal in particular. They give their substance in various forms for the nourishment of man and animal including the insects. Some give themselves as healers, some, as we shall shortly see, are there merely to help other plants growing near them. A few, like some rare human beings, create an atmosphere of wellbeing by their mere presence. But whatever people with electrical gadgets and boiling prawns may say, plants have no direct feelings of pleasure and pain like animals or men; they have no organs for such experiences. This does not imply that such experiments have been rigged
, but just that they have been misinterpreted. In fact if one takes the concept of an etheric field as valid, it would be surprising if the instruments had not reacted under the circumstances described.
If different plants, say a wheat plant, a cabbage, a carrot and a bean, are grown close together so that the roots of each have access to the same soil conditions, if they are subsequently burnt and their ashes analysed chemically, it is quite remarkable how the proportions of the chemical elements in the various ashes are entirely different. Though the amounts will vary slightly according to the soil, the patterns are just as characteristic for each species as are the leaf and floral forms. A plant can select what it needs from the soil in which it is growing, always provided that its needs are there in the first place. There are, however, exceptions. On the one hand, if the soil solution has been affected by the application of soluble fertilisers, the plants may be forced to take up more of certain elements than they require, and their whole metabolism may then be so disrupted that they become sitting targets for pathogenic organisms. On the other hand, some species of plants have as their special function in Nature's household the collection of some one or other of the chemical elements out of the atmosphere. This phenomenon can be seen as a kind of depotentisation
—the opposite of potentising—for it seems (contrary to current dogma) that we are surrounded by matter in what E. Lehrs calls its imponderable state
, or in statu nascendi (in a state of becoming). That this is no idle fancy is demonstrated by the Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides) which grows on telegraph wires in South America out of all contact with the soil. It is vigorous and can be shown to have a full complement of all the major chemical elements together with a wide range of the trace elements. The quantities involved are so large that they could hardly have been absorbed from the sporadic rain which in any case has only the smallest trace of phosphate in it. The only explanation is that substance has been condensed out of the air. It is interesting to record that the opposite process has recently been proved experimentally: pine and pea seedlings have been shown to disperse into the air soil contaminants such as cadmium and zinc.
Experiments on somewhat similar lines were conducted in the former Soviet Union. They grew maize and a type of bean together in mixed stands. On some plots they persuaded the bean to fix
a radioactive isotope of nitrogen, and by means of a Geiger counter they very soon found some of this nitrogen in the maize plants. On other plots they sprayed the maize foliage with radioactive phosphate and before long it had found its way into the beans. So it seems that plants not only draw nutrients out of the soil solution, but that they are also able to contribute to this solution for the benefit of plants of other species. Thus a pool of nutrients is created in the soil by the plants growing on it: if their species are diverse and well mixed, the pool will be rich; but in a monoculture or with incompatible species the pool will be nonexistent. These facts shed an interesting light on companion planting, and may also give us cause to revise our ideas about weeds: perhaps they are not so universally bad as is usually supposed.
From our picture of a plant standing between heaven and earth it is not surprising that sunlight, either direct or obscured by cloud, has a very strong influence on the way in which a plant develops its inherent qualities. Everybody knows how root crops stored in a dark cellar produce elongated, rather shapeless shoots and tiny leaves quite devoid of colour. This is of course an extreme case, but it does indicate how closely plant nature and light nature are interwoven. Some plant species, particularly those belonging to the lower orders such as ferns and mosses, are attuned to cool, shady conditions; but others requiring full sunlight will languish when shaded by taller companions. These facts will influence the planning of a garden and care needs to be taken that taller vegetables do not unduly restrict shorter neighbours; orientating the rows north and south will help to solve this difficulty.
Even more important for the growth of many annuals and perennials is the seasonal effect of longer and shorter days. Some plants need a long day before they can form flower buds, others must have short days. For instance, beetroot bolts if sown too early. Apart from the length of day there are other more subtle differences in the quality of the sun's light according to the constellation of the zodiac in which it is standing at any given time. It is at present difficult to specify these effects for practical planning, but they should always be borne in mind when trying to assess the reasons for unexpected phenomena. Perhaps it is something of this nature which renders groundsel and some other common weeds very susceptible to rust diseases after the middle of August. All this points to the desirability of sowing annual crops so that they mature in their proper season. We have so many plants at our disposal covering the whole year that it is rather unnecessary to try to grow any of them out of season; it is senseless to complain of lack of success, of pest and disease attacks, if one does attempt to do this.
Trees fall into a category rather different from annual and herbaceous plants. One feature, as Grohmann so clearly points out, is that the side shoots of an annual are arranged in a pattern determined by its phyllotaxis; the branches of a tree spring from the trunk in patterns quite unrelated to the succession of its leaves on the twigs. The forms created by the branches are characteristic of each individual species, a fact which can be noted with great interest in winter when the deciduous trees have shed their leaves. The whole development of trees takes place in their own special milieu of formative forces.
From an imaginative point of view it is possible to regard the trunks of trees with their main branches as raised mounds of soil, each leaf-bearing shoot and twig being a separate plantlet growing out of this enhanced kind of earth. This is not the place to go more deeply into the idea.
In any general account of plant life as seen from the bio-dynamic standpoint it is perhaps fitting to conclude with a description of Goethe's far-reaching observation, conducted over many years and brought to fruition in his Metamorphosis of Plants. He was inspired to this study when he asked himself the questions, How do we know that an object in front of our gaze is a plant? What are its essential characteristics? He felt that there must be some universal underlying pattern behind the form and development of every plant species. Contrary to the common practice of starting with the lowest type of plants from which the higher orders are supposed to have evolved, he took his stand at the outset on the higher flowering plants, and saw the lower orders as less successful strivings towards the higher goal. He eventually found the secret in the green leaf with a node at its base. He saw how in many plants the leaves develop from the shapeless cotyledons of the seed, gradually exhibiting their particular form and then withdrawing it as flowering approaches: buttercups and delphiniums are especially good for studying this phenomenon. In other plants the leaf shape is more or less constant from the start. After this display, or sometimes concurrent with it, the leaf forms contract and gather together to make the calyx for the flower. There is an expansion as the blooms open out followed by a contraction into the floral organs, anthers and ovaries; but the latter are in fact metamorphosed leaves. One example which led Goethe to this latter conclusion was the comparatively common sight of a small leaf appearing instead of an anther in the flower of a wild rose. After fertilisation another expansion occurs as the fruit and seeds begin to swell; but the carpels enclosing the seeds are again metamorphosed leaves, a fact which is often obvious when picking peas—the leaves look like pods.
Thus Goethe's archetypal plant arose in his mind's eye—expansion into leaf, contraction into flower bud, expansion into flower, contraction into floral organs, expansion into seed and fruit and a final contraction into the ripened seed. This Ur-plant is not to be seen as a physical primaeval ancestor from which the whole plant kingdom has descended, but is a fundamental pattern in the world beyond the senses, and into it there can flow an infinite number of forms and rhythms to produce different species in the physical world. In the lower plant orders parts of the pattern are omitted or coalesce. Rudolf Steiner developed this theme further to include the root, and glimpses of his adaptations are to be found throughout Agriculture. This theme has been extensively elaborated by G. Grohmann who has shown in what ways the lower plant orders—gymnosperms, ferns, mosses and so on—can be seen as less successful strivings towards a more perfect goal.
The Primal Plant, or Ur-Plant
On a journey through the Swiss Alps and into Italy, Goethe noticed that plants of the same species, which grew in his home country, looked so different that one could be deceived into thinking one had a different species before one's eyes. (We can follow up the same observation if we take a plant such as plantain or dandelion, observe it growing with thin, pointed leaves on the dry hillsides, and compare it to when it grows succulently and fleshy in the moist lowlands.) These observations led Goethe to develop the concept of a primal plant, or Ur-plant, as a basic theme that is played in a number of variations according to the circumstances. These circumstances, the various formative forces in nature, radically modify the plant's expression. This Ur-plant is not a phylogenetic or prehistoric prototype but is present in all living plants. It is the appropriate idea that underlies the phenomena of all plants in their ever-changing variation. Whereas the various manifestations are apprehended by the external senses, the Ur-plant is perceived by the mind. Both the empirical plant and the Ur-plant belong together to give us the whole plant.
Various elemental forces modify the manifestation of the Ur-plant. The physiognomy of the empirical plant as it grows shows us what elemental and formative forces are at work, on one hand, but shows us the idea of the plant ever-anew on the other hand. As the plant moves from seed to leaf to flower and fruit and back to seed, it is always changing, always in the process of becoming, of expressing its being, which is only comprehended by the inner senses. In characterizing the Ur-plant, Goethe sees the leaf as its basic organ, which goes through its various stages of metamorphosis from contraction to expansion, ever-changing and ever the same.
Thoughts like these lead the biodynamic gardener to the conclusion that if crops are not doing well, growing stunted and subject to disease, the fault lies not so much within the plants themselves. It is the effect of various forces that work upon the plant, the combination of formative forces and vectors such as the mineral substratum, water, light, and warmth that give the idea of the plant its concrete manifestation.
It is through understanding the idea of the archetypal plant, the Ur-plant, which unfolds into various manifestations, that Goethe could assert that the laws of mechanics are all right for the inorganic world, but for the world of living organisms, other laws are at work. He delineated three laws that characterize living organisms, plants in particular. They are the laws of dynamic polarity, metamorphosis, and intensification.
- Law of Polarity
-
The law of polarity shows that one of the major characteristics of plants is their dualistic nature. From the seed the plant grows geocentrically into the soil and heliocentrically into the air. Nowhere is something similar to be found in inorganic nature. The plant responds to the polarities of the day and night, winter and summer, waxing and waning moon. Polarity is found in the
male
andfemale
flowers, in the round,cosmic
bud and the extendedterrestrial
leaf. Wherever one looks into the realm of organic nature, the archetypal polarities manifest themselves, such as in the green chlorophyll molecules and the red hemoglobin molecules, which are perfect mirror images of each other except that the hemoglobin has an iron radical where the chlorophyll has a magnesium radical attached. A fascinating polarity exists between the plant and the butterfly. Do the eggs not correspond to the seeds; the quick growing, segmented caterpillar to the quick-growing shoot that is segmented from node to node; then just as the plant folds itself into a flower bud, so does the caterpillar spin itself into a pupa to emerge in radiant color as a butterfly as the flower bud blooms into a flower. The butterfly's proboscis fits perfectly the flower chalice; and just as the one dies to lay eggs, the other fades to make seeds. Each step is thus exquisitely matched, as though one were watching a beautiful dance.In a meditative approach to gardening, the biodynamic gardener will look for such harmonies and symmetries, think of the roots when looking at leaf and flower, think of the opposites that make up the complete picture.
- Law of Metamorphosis
-
Living organisms do not grow by processes of mechanical addition or construction like erector sets. They grow in pulsating rhythms, at certain points reaching a crescendo and continuing at a qualitatively different pace. Consider an ordinary weed. Who can predict, upon seeing the mere little seed, what kind of plant it will become? The seed does not just turn into a bigger and bigger seed, but it radically changes, metamorphoses; it breaks open, sends out a rootlet and two cotyledons. Again, the appearance of regular leaves could not have been predicted from studying the cotyledons. As new leaves form at the internodes, they remain pretty much similar, only being broader and rounder at the base and finer, more laced and pointed the higher the plant grows. Then, suddenly, another unpredictable change occurs: the leaves totally metamorphose, turning into a corona of petals and sepals. Finally, yet another metamorphosis occurs in the fruiting and the creation of a new set of seeds. These metamorphoses occur rhythmically and in relation to terrestrial and cosmic factors. None of the states are deductible from the previous level of organization. Each time a completely new set of phenomena appears, yet they are all part of the same plant organism passing into ever new manifestation.
The biodynamic gardener can watch if the metamorphoses are occurring in a normal fashion in his or her plants, or whether these processes occur too fast as in the shooting into seed of some plants, or too slowly as in delayed ripening. It becomes a heuristic exercise to study different plants in their characteristic development. Comparing the different brassica-varieties, we see that kohlrabi is really an exaggerated stem, broccoli and cauliflower are in the floral stage, and collards and kales are fixated in the leaf stage, head cabbages are really overgrown terminal buds, etc. Each manifests a stage within the whole metamorphic range of the Brassica oleraceae. Onions like to hover in the bud stage. Oak galls are a
fruit
induced by the sting of a wasp. The examples can go on forever. - Law of Increment or of Enhancing Intensification
-
The law of increment or of enhancing intensification is another characteristic of organic life discussed by Goethe. In the mechanical, inorganic world systems wear down. The more energy is taken out, the less there is; parts wear out and depletion results. In the inorganic, physical world the second law of thermodynamics holds true. This is at the base of so much thinking in agriculture today: regarding weeds as competitors with the crops, insects as leaks in the energy system, fearing that the NPK continuously depletes and must be replaced as one would do with a mechanism. Goethe saw nature in a different light. Life is not just wearing down and depleting, but it is building itself up and creating energy at the same time. The more life there is, the more life it can support. On a farm, for example, the more varied the number and kind of organisms are, the better the ecosystem will sustain itself. Maintaining a complex ecosystem is part of the reason for companion planting, for controlled use of weeds, for not getting hysterical about a few bugs, and for circulating animal manures within the system. There is a mazeway of subtle interaction and mutual support among all the organisms in such a farm, such that insets and weeds will not be a problem and overall vitality and quality will be enhanced.6 Contrary to the thought of some radical vegetarians, livestock, in the right number, are not competitors with man for a limited amount of vegetation; instead they are valuable symbionts enhancing growth and health of the vegetation. By comparison, farms and gardens that practice monoculture create imbalances that will deplete the regenerative and enhancing potentials, will wear out the soil, and will experience weeds and bugs as competitors and incur heavy damage from them. We see here the mechanistic attitude turn into a self-fulfilling prophecy.
The Four Elements
The concept that everything in creation is composed of the elements, fire, air, water, and earth, is ancient indeed, forming a great part of pre-Socratic speculation about the nature of the universe, and continuing through our history until it was replaced by Mendeleev"s periodic table of nearly one hundred elements. We feel that we have advanced a long way, and that the idea of four elements is rather simplistic. Yet, we should be cautious, for what the sages of old meant by an element is different from what we mean by an element of the periodic chart.
Aristotle, for example, sees primary matter as chaos that has only potential existence until it is impressed by the ordering formative forces derived from the cosmos. These forces have four manifestations in the four elements. Matter is made manifest to us in the continual interplay of fire, air, water, and earth. In brief, Cornelius Agrippa of Nettesheim writes:
There are four elements and primordial basis of all formed things: they are Fire, Earth, Water and Air. All natural things of our world are formed of them not by mere aggregation, but by transformations and intimate combinations, which, when destroyed revert back to the original elements. None of the empirically sensible elements are in pure form, all are more or less mixed together... Plato is of the opinion that... the elements transmute into earth or into each other. Each element has two specific characteristics, one principle one and the other that serves as a connecting medium to the other elements. Whereas Fire is warm and dry, Earth is dry and cold, Water is cold and wet (moist) and Air is moist and warm. According to these characteristics, the elements form pairs of opposites, such as Fire and Water, Earth and Air. Other ways in which they form opposites are that Earth and Water are heavy while Air and Fire are light, for which reason the Stoics called the former passive and the latter active elements. Plato notes further distinctions, pointing out that Fire is sharp, rare and mobile, whereas Earth is dark, dense and at rest. In that Fire and Earth are opposites... etc.
Let us examine this a little more closely: Fire is the least dense element and, hence, the most spiritual. It has a purifying, transmuting character; it is anything hot, colorful, and quick, from a burning faggot to a choleric temper. Earth is most dense, and is manifested in anything in a solid, cold, and dark state, from a piece of lead to a solid thought. Water, flowing and sensitive, willing to assume all forms, is cold and dark, yet lets light travel through it. Air is found in anything that is light, warm, and moving, be it the wind or in the soul.
In the manifest world, the elements are always mixed as, for example, in a wood fire: Fire is present in the heat and darting flame; Air in the light, smoke and fragrance of the burning logs; Water in the melting pitch; Earth in the ashes. Water, that is, our
The four elements are not just confined to the inorganic and mineral world, but bring into manifestation the other kingdoms of nature as well. In the plant kingdom, the earth element predominates in the roots, the water element in the leaves and fluid system of the plant, the air in the lightness and fragrance of the flowers, and the fire in the ripening of fruit and seed. We can characterize some plants as having a special affinity to the heavy earth and water element, such as cabbages, potatoes, or beets, and others, such as cereal plants or aromatic herbs, as having affinity to the light and warmth element.
In the human and animal organisms, we can assign the earth element to bones and nerves, the water element to the lymph and fluid system, the air element to the respiratory system, and the fire element to the pulsating of the warm blood. Overall, one can imagine how the earth element predominates in the mineral kingdom, the water element in the plant kingdom, the mobile air element in the animal kingdom, and the fire element in the human kingdom.
Of what use is the concept of the four elements to us as farmers and gardeners? For one thing, the manifestations of the four elements are directly available to our senses, while the one hundred and some elements that the chemist talks about are not there for us to experience directly. Mendeleev"s elements are available primarily to our intellect, but not to our senses. This is not to discount the careful work of diligent scientific specialists, rather it is to point out a way that the ordinary farmer and gardener can sharpen his or her own observation and trust his or her own judgment once again. In the four elements, we have a conceptual system that can be applied to everyday work with nature; it worked well in a time of direct unmediated experience and observation, not so much as a theory, but as an ideational description of what is already there. As we shall see later, it is a valuable way of describing and experiencing the seasons, the growing habits of plants, the quality of manure, the processes occurring in composts, etc. In farming, one can speak of cold, wet soil such as clay, which is too much earth, or of sandy soil, which is too light and heats up too quickly, as too much air and fire. Compost can be diagnosed as too watery, too earthy, too airy, and too hot; and how such compost will affect the vegetables can also be studied in these terms.
It is a good exercise to practice detecting the four elements and try to describe all observable phenomena in these terms. Many secrets of nature reveal themselves to the observer, and do so without the aid of complicated instruments (microscopes, spectroscopes, soil-test kits) or the technical literature that abounds with abstract jargon. If practiced correctly, one has at one"s disposal a means of finding the keys to successful gardening without the aid of a distant specialist. This is one way of overcoming the alienation from immediate experience that ails so many modern people. I have seen traditional farmers look at the sky and know what the weather will be like in the next forty-eight to seventy-two hours on the basis of just such repeated observations, while the neighbor who had lost self-confidence in his or her own judgment and observation abilities will listen to the weather report on the radio to know whether or not to make hay. Since the weather patterns are much influenced by local idiosyncrasies, especially in the mountains, it is little wonder that the traditionalist"s judgments were often more accurate than those who relied on experts who were far away in some city office where the predictions were made.
The four elements are not obvious and easy to discern at first, but a meditation on water will help, watching it change from ice to water, boil and evaporate, condense and freeze. Then compare dry ice to this. Where is the difference? Cooking, especially on a wood fire, if done correctly, is one of the finest contemplations of the transformations and interplay of the four elements (TV dinners do more than give an upset stomach; they also impoverish inner life by depriving one of the chance to experience these elemental transformations). It is in meditations like these that the alchemists experienced their work not only as externally changing, transmuting one substance into another (lead into gold, muck
into humus), but of changing a base mentality into a heart of gold and a mind of crystal.
In the days of yore, the four elements found imaginative personifications as the workings of the gnomes and dwarves (Earth) who worked in crystal mines and on plant roots, nixes and undines (Water) found in all water interfaces, sylphs and fairies (Air), and fire spirits and salamanders (Fire). Nature can correctly and effectively be described in terms of the interaction of such elemental spirits.
When dealing with the four elements, biodynamic researchers tend to talk of formative forces, or etheric formative forces:
- the life, or earth, ether;
- the chemical, sound or water ether;
- the light ether; and
- the warmth ether.
The ethers are the formative forces whose effects can be read in the forms and appearances in the physical world. In themselves, they are super-sensory, or discernable to inner perception if this is trained. By looking carefully at the gesture a plant makes during its growth, one can read what forces were working on the plant to give it the shape and characteristics it has.
Etheric formative forces sculpt our visible world. As a cursory example, let us look at the physiognomy of leaves. Hemp leaves, for example, are formed by forces of light and warmth that gradually melt away the substance and leave only lacy, pointed lances as leaves that are filled with resin and aroma. By contrast, the fleshy, succulent leaves of cabbage are predominated by the forces of water and earth that swell them with substance. The two plants are, by the way, good companion plants, complementing each other through positive allelopathy, such as to keep hungry insects at bay. In the stomach, too, heavy foods such as cabbage and potatoes are best complemented when seasoned with caraway seeds, for example, a plant that is formed by light and air ether.
The gardener can see to it that plants with an affinity for the earth and water ether (cool weather lovers) get the moister, cooler spots in the garden, for if the air and light ether become too strong, they will bolt. Those plants that have affinity to light and air ether should be aided to keep them from getting stuck.
In his Agricultural Course, Steiner gives hints on how to aid the flow of these etheric forces by the use of silica preparations which aid the light absorption capacity of plants; to strengthen the life and chemical (earth and water) etheric formative forces, he prescribes the use of calcium and cow manure preparations. These preparations will be discussed in the second part of the book.
A number of researchers have developed methods for making these etheric formative forces visible. The formation of floral and foliar ice crystal patterns on window panes in the winter, and the vibrations from musical instruments that can arrange fine dust on paper into various organic-looking, symmetric figures (Chladni"s patterns) are examples of visible indications of these formative forces.
The method of capillary dynamolysis developed by Lili Kolisko, using plant saps to be tested in a solution of silver nitrate, and then studying the characteristic patterns that are created by the capillary movement of this solution up a role of filter paper, provides picture images of the effect of these etheric forces that are working in substances. Characteristic differences between biodynamically grown food and chemically grown food, between plants germinated during different lunar phases, can be shown by this capillary method.
Another method is the sensitive crystallization procedure developed by Ehrenfried Pfeiffer. Here, substances drawn from plant, animal, or human tissue are tested by crystallizing them in a solution of copper chloride. The patterns of crystal formation are characteristic. For example, roots will yield more compact crystals than flower extracts. The method is being used in anthroposophic medicine to diagnose various disorders by crystallizing blood, as well as in biodynamic research to test the quality of wine.
Photographing the characteristic movements of water streams and drops through a viscous fluid, such as glycerin, is a method developed by Theodor Schwenk to make visible the formative forces of the water element. Formative forces of sound, such as the spoken word and of musical instruments can be made visible by a sound-sensitive flame.
In a discussion of the basic four elements, the fifth element, or quinta essentia, must be included. This fifth element can be interpreted as referring to the human element, human consciousness, as vital an essence as the others, but of a different nature. Thus for compost, for example, one must have enough solid matter, there must be enough moisture for the metabolism of the small organisms, there must be air spaces for gas exchange, and a heated metabolism must come about. But for all of this to happen properly, it takes the quintessence, the gardener, who arranges the compost heap. All four elements are present everywhere on any piece of ground, but by themselves, they do not form a garden: it takes the ordering principle, the quintessence, to arrange the four so that the garden can flourish in harmony. What the gardener is in a microcosmic sense, Christ as the master of the elements is in the larger sense. Considerations like these might provide a key to humankind"s place in nature.
Processes: Sal, Mercurius, Sulphur
Besides the four elements and their mutual interactions, the alchemists also talked about basic processes, which tie in with them. What goes on in the universe as movements, functions, and states of being can be understood as essentially three processes: that of sal (salt), referring to precipitation, crystallization; sulfur process, referring to dissipation, dissolution, going into sublimation; mercury (quicksilver) process, which mediates the exchanges between the opposite poles, the contracting, centripetal salt process, and the centrifugal sulfur process.
As an example, in the plant, the concentrated nature of the root, drawing water and minerals, shows that the salt or sal process is stronger here than in other parts of the plant. The mercury process is evident in the breathing, assimilating leaves and in the stems (xylem and phloem) with their transport functions; and the sulfur process is evident in the delicate flower and fruit, which dissipates itself in fragrance, pollen, and seed. This can be illustrated by an annual weed, noting the difference between the coarser lower leaves and the leaves as they move upward toward the flower; one can observe the leaves becoming lacy, more delicate and pointed, less substantial, as though the plant is dissipating itself.
In the annual seasons, we see these processes at work also: winter with its freezing, crystallizing character, drawing all things tightly together, is a salt process; spring and early summer with winds, rains, and the rapid growth of vegetation indicate a mercury process; while late summer and fall with the heat and the dissolving of the lush vegetation into myriad color and fragrance show a sulfur process. This, in turn, gives way to a salt process in late fall when the birds gather into tight flocks to fly south and plants retreat into seed, into the roots and bark, or into the ground, hugging it tightly as a rosette formation.
In plants, animals, composts, and soils one can detect imbalances in the processes, or abnormal and one-sided expressions of the processes: as for example, fruits and vegetables that are too hard and woody, or stems that have hard knots on them, indicate an excessive sal process. On the other hand, the plant might rot, develop odors and mucus in the stem, leaf, or even root area: here we can say that the sulfur process is taking place too early, or is in the plant at the wrong place and at the wrong time. According to Paracelsus, sal, mercur, and sulfur have to be kept in balance by the Archeus (ether body). If this Archeus does not function, the process will split up and the organism will fall apart. Depending on where the imbalance lies, the organism will burn up, dry up, rot, or grow rank.
All of this can be carefully observed in nature. The observations can be diligently practiced at any time without the need for special equipment or instruments. One can see sulfur, mercury, and salt in a burning log: in the darting, dancing flames, the smell and odors of the smoke, and the remnant of the ashes. Just as with the four elements, we can meditate on this trinity in cooking, baking, pottery making and, of course, gardening. We can see plants such as the carrot, which bring sulfuric color and fragrance all the way down into the taproot. Pines bring the salt process all the way to their flowers (cones), which are dense and woody, while at the same time the sulfur penetrates leaf, stem, and root in the fragrant pitch. Composts in which the sulfur process is too strong dissipate their nutrients as foul-smelling methane or ammonia gases. Earthworms, by carrying decaying organic substance into the ground and mineral substance upward, carry on a mercurial function in the soil; initiating a sal process by applying ammonium sulfate will drive them off. The examples are endless.
The alchemists found these processes not just on the physical, material plane but as processes of the mind and spirit, as well. Here, sal is present as clear crystallizing thought; mercur as the ever-moving feeling and sensing; and sulfur as the will. A good gardener has to know these inner aspects of the processes, also, for they are to be found in he or she who is the quintessence of the garden. Proper thinking, feeling, and willing are as important ingredients to a garden as are water, fertilizer, and seeds. There is an inner gardening that accompanies the outer gardening; it is perhaps the key to the often talked about green thumb,
the good vibes,
that turn wastelands into gardens of Eden. They might account for the phenomenon of the so-called Backster effect (the fluctuating electric potential in plants in response to human presence, measurable by a galvanometer).
Microcosm-Macrocosm
Elements and processes work within the world of nature and the world of man. This takes us to another important universal concept found in ancient and primitive man alike, but difficult for the twentieth-century thinker: that of the macrocosm and microcosm. Man is a little world
that contains all of the elements of the greater world.
Both worlds contain an inner and an outer aspect. Man lives within the outer world of nature that reaches from the stars of the heavens to the sand grains of the seashore, and includes minerals, plants, and animals; through thoughts, feelings, instincts, through dreams, memories, imaginations, and intuitions he or she perceives the inner side of the macrocosm. Because the microcosm is of the same nature as the macrocosm, man can understand and has affinity with all that exists macrocosmically. As Goethe expresses it: Thou art like the spirit thou doest comprehend.
(Faust I)
Certain Renaissance scholars, such as Giordano Bruno, Agrippa of Nettesheim, Marsilio Ficino, As above, so below,
proclaims the meditation formula of Hermes Trismegistos.
What is concentrated in man, the salt (sal) of the earth, is spread out in nature as millions of separate entities. What is laid out before him, as the animal kingdom in the macrocosm is found in man"s soul as the many passions, desires, and feelings seated deep in his blood, respiration, and muscle tissues. What is called the plant kingdom in the macrocosm is the endlessly sprouting, growing, wilting, and decaying life of the imagination in human being with its base in the lymph and vegetative system. What is the solid mineral kingdom of the macrocosm, obeying rigid physical and chemical laws involving causality and exclusiveness, is in man the faculty for clear, logical thinking that has its physical locus in the bone and nerve tissue, which is most mineralized and least alive of the body tissues. This is one of the reasons why the logical, abstracting mind can deal so effectively with the physical, material world—because that world can be treated as a mechanism and its laws can be abstractly formulated. However, this faculty is not enough to understand the world of plants and animals, which engage the gardener, because these are more than mechanisms; they are living, etheric organisms, which can only be understood by making the proper imaginations (imago = picture) come to life in the mind.
Nature can be seen as man exteriorized, and man is nature internalized. Because everything found in external nature is found somewhere in man and everything found in man is found in some transformation in the realm of nature, the Renaissance Neo-Platonists postulated that in order to study the human being, one must study nature and in order to study nature one must study the human being.
The correspondences are found on all levels (physical, etheric, astral, spiritual), which we can only indicate within our context here. Again, it takes a lot of practice and imagination to get the feel of what is meant by them. Where, for instance, are the eagles and sparrows found in the microcosm? Are they not like high, soaring, lofty ideas or daily little fluttering thoughts? Where are snails or slugs to be found in man? Is it not in the tongue, for instance? Do snails not taste their way through the world and in a deeper sense are they not found in the character of slushy indulgence? And thunder and lightening... are they not like flashes of anger or flashes of insight whose manifestation—both externally and internally—was personified by the ancients as Thor, Jupiter, Perkunas, Indra, Thunderbird, or Michael?
Very archetypal imaginations of correspondences are those of the seven visible planets. Each planet has a signature working by means of etheric formative forces in order to manifest in nature and in man. Thus, Venus is not just a tiny speck of dead light in the starry sky, but has a macrocosmic signature in the color green, in the metal copper, in sexual attraction and reproduction, in plants such as mallows and birches, in animals such as cats and doves. And it is present in the microcosm as love, sensual or aesthetic, negatively in the livid green of jealousy, in the physical body as kidneys and their function. Jupiter"s signature is in the color yellow and royal purple, the metal tin, in stately creatures such as stags and eagles, in chestnut trees and maples, in the microcosm in wisdom and the sense of justice, negatively in gluttony and drunkenness, in the body in the liver, etc. Mars is found in red, iron, nettles, and oaks, in the gall formation on oaks and in animals, in warlike fierceness and courage and, negatively, as cruelty. The sun"s signature is found in gold, uprightness, and goodness, and has the heart as its organ. The moon has silver, growing and decaying, snails, worms, dogs, etc.; in the microcosm it shows its presence as dreaminess and lunacy.
Mercury has quicksilver, any movement, speed, message bearing, commerce, healing, vines and creepers, snakes, etc. among its signatures. Lead, dark colors, pines and beech forests, time, old age, etc. are among the signatures of Saturn. The list is endless because the world of phenomena is endless. Neither is it as simple as some astrologers have us believe, because the spheres of the planets interpenetrate each other and the influences are mixed so that seldom does the signature come out clear and unequivocal. Alchemists have always indicated that it is a difficult task to perceive these signatures and correspondences that exist in nature correctly; it takes keen external observation and perception of the senses matched the inner perception of the appropriate imagination.
Alchemists agreed that just as it takes clear senses to perceive the external world, so it takes a clear mind, not clouded by wishful thinking, lusts, and bad will, to perceive the supersensible qualities of the object under study. For, to the alchemists, the mind does not primarily think, but is a mirror that reflects what exists in the universe into the conscious part of the soul (that is why, for example, the brain was assigned to the lunar sphere which reflects the light of the sun). If the mirror is distorted by virtueless living, the images perceived will also be distorted.
The discussion of imaginative perception and of goetheanistic science will aid the methodology of our endeavor to understand these images.
Imaginative Perception
Just as there can be logical, clear thoughts that correctly apprehend the phenomena of the physical world, as opposed to illogical, obscure or erroneous thoughts, so there can be living imaginations that apprehend something of the life, soul, and spirit of the world. These imaginations must be distinguished from wild and idle fantasies that only confuse and do not explain or point out anything. Logical, discursive thought and imagination are not mutually exclusive; both account for different aspects of the same phenomena.
As an example: Walk through the orchard in late fall or early spring, just before sunrise. Delicate frost crystals growing on the bare, black branches sparkle in the light of pre-dawn. Quickly, the first beams ray over the hill and strike the branches. The crystals disappear at the touch of the sun-rays, filling the still grove with a rustling, sounding like footsteps or squirrels scurrying about as they fall onto the dry leave mulch. This lasts for a moment until the sun is up higher and then it is still again. The hoarfrost is gone.
This is a phenomenological vignette of what one might experience. Given the same phenomena, one can explain it in the fashion of logical, discursive thought that remains on a materialistic level, or one can explain it imaginatively. Both approaches are correct and one is not exclusive of the other.
A materialistic, mechanistic explanation would have the hoarfrost grow due to the special bonding nature of
An imaginative explanation draws not so much from the abstractly formulated laws of physics and chemistry, but uses the metalanguage of age-old cultural tradition based on visions and images that have been passed on through the generations. The explanation of the phenomena might go like this: Helios, the sun king, is approaching; heralds in pink and tender blue vestments announce his approach. Gnomes and dwarves, who work with the crystallizing forces of nature, with ores and precious stones in the dark recesses of the universe, do not like to see the sun god directly. They prefer to hear about the sun through what the growing plant roots tell them during the summer. And they certainly are not on speaking terms with dumb sylphs who dance on sunbeams. So they scramble back into the earth, causing rustling sounds as they snatch up their precious crystals, losing most of them to the undines, the water spirits, who turn the crystals into liquid.
Sometimes, imaginative explanations serve the purpose of obtaining a holistic concept, a gestalt, of what is going on, better than a materialistic abstraction does.
In gardening, we are dealing with such innumerable factors—the minerals, insects, birds, plants, weather, and cosmic influences—that often imaginative pictures comprehend the essence better than a materialistic, discursive form of thinking. Imaginations comprehend gestalts, that is, they grasp multifaceted totalities. They can deal with aspects that necessarily lie outside the parameters of our limited thinking. The gardener who thinks only materialistically is tempted to treat the soil, the plant, the animal like a machine or mechanism, which they are not; he or she is tempted to use abstract concepts of chemistry (NPK), fuel-energy input-output ratio models for the organisms, formulas, etc. in an analysis of a garden or farm organism. This is inevitably harmful, for it does not understand their true nature. Living processes must be understood by living thoughts. For bio-dynamic gardening, living picture imaginations are necessary, but they must be correct and fit the phenomena. They must give a clearer concept of reality.
Unfortunately, there is currently much occultist, one-sided, spiritualistic nonsense written about gardening; fantastic accounts of talking with plants, drug-induced dreams of beings and forces that do not connect with the phenomena, but are idle, fluttering fantasies and illusions that will not help in a realistic way to create beautiful, productive gardens.
The Spheres, or Planes
To help us understand what plants, animals, man, and minerals are in relation to each other and to the universe, there lingers in the background of biodynamic epistemology the concept that the universe is arranged in a series of interacting, interpenetrating planes that are presided over or occupied by a hierarchy of beings, souls, essences, and spirits. Earliest cosmologies, similar to those still maintained by shamanistic tribes of Siberia, illustrate it as a Cosmic Tree, at whose roots the primordial dragon dwells, where all beings live on some level along the branches, while eagles live at the top. Such cosmologies are again imaginative expressions of content of inner and outer experience.
Starting with the empirical world, one can experience solid rock formations always on the bottom, followed by a layer of water (lakes, seas), then a level of air (atmosphere) above which light and warmth (sun, moon) originate. This is how one experiences the physical world, not the other way around, though there are many intermediate realms and mixed states. This can be referred to as the hierarchy of the elements.
Some creatures are more at home in one element than in the other: worms and moles in the ground, fish in the water, fowl and butterflies in the air and light. Though these creatures live in the elements, they are different from them. As living creatures, they express the working of a life force, which can get a hold of and utilize the elements in its own construction. This life, or etheric, force creates a level of organization beyond the elements, a level than can be called that of the formative or etheric forces. It is characterized by vitality, endless repetition of itself (i.e., plant growing from node to node, mitosis), symmetry and levity (as opposed to gravity). Phenomenologically, the living organisms referred to collectively as the vegetable kingdom can be explained in terms of elements (physical body) and life forces (ether body).
Other organisms have something in their makeup that goes beyond the purely etheric forces, something that turns ever growing life forces into another direction, that stops the endless replication of the formative forces and changes them into sensitivity, feeling, drives, and consciousness. These organisms are the animals, where the purely vegetative, unconscious growth has been turned into organs of sensing, nerves, and inner organs, which do not have the regenerative powers of purely vegetative cells. In that animals are sensing, feeling, and increasingly conscious beings, they represent a higher state of being, that of the incarnate soul; they are truly animated (L. anima = soul). Whereas plants incarnate physically and etherically, animals develop instincts, feeling and to an extent thinking, which helps them meet the exigencies of life. In other words, their soul or astral body incarnates into the physical world.
In the human being, however, a new level is reached, characterized by symbolic and abstract thinking, impulses of a moral nature and self-consciousness, which go beyond the sympathies and antipathies of the soul life. We are here at the state of ego-hood or self-conscious spirit, where the question posed, Who is it that is thinking, feeling and willing?
is answered by I am!
Thus, man has a physical body, an ether body, a soul, and a spirit.
This, which has just been discussed, makes up the natural world, the place that in Germanic mythology was called Midgard (Middle Earth; the garden in the middle), which was regarded as the proper dwelling place of mankind.
Below the natural world are levels or spheres, which were in former times imaginatively called the abodes of demons and devils. These are the realms of sub-material forces that are no longer concrete matter, which the modern scientist perceives using powerful laboratory instruments and advanced mathematics. These forces—gravity, electricity, magnetism, and nuclear energy—might themselves be reflections of the formative forces, for they are known to have effects on vegetation (i.e., electro-culture). These lower levels might be called the sub-natural world.
There is also a supernatural world. The wisest of humanity have never doubted the possibility that beings can exist in nonphysical manifestation. The possibility opens that elemental spirits, angels, and other non-incarnate beings who might have etheric bodies, astral bodies, or spirit bodies but not physical bodies, exist behind phenomena, and that with our materialistic thinking and physical perception we do not perceive them. (If we think we perceive them with our physical eyes, then we are probably hallucinating). Already through imaginative thinking one has images of beings that have their effects in the physical world, but are themselves not present in it as incarnate entities. How else does one explain the universality in human culture, attested to in ethnographic literature, of dragons, flying witches, dwarves, nature spirits, unicorns, etc.? Cultural traditions of myth, art, and poetry are clothing these nonmaterial beings (essences, forces) in forms that make sense to us. With developed inner vision, true imagination, one can perceive pictures on the astral or elemental plane. A higher faculty than the imaginative one is the inspirational faculty that perceives what lies beyond the picture images. Real inspiration is said to come from heaven,
a plane beyond the elemental and astral world, which is referred to as the Harmony of the Spheres, or the lower spiritual plane. Real inspiration is the rare experience of a few gifted people like Shakespeare, Dante, and Beethoven. An even higher level of perception than inspiration is that of true intuition, which realizes the archetypes by merging with the higher spiritual plane. Such intuitions, when available to an age through a great human being, are characterized as a great religious-sacred insight, bringing blessing and boons to mankind, such as the intuition of Zarathustra (or in Chinese culture, Emperor Shennong, the divine farmer
) who, according to legends, first taught humanity how to do agriculture.
The various planes have been located imaginatively in external space, as well as in the inner space in the microcosm. Ancient philosophers have identified the various levels of the astral world existing in the macrocosm as the planetary spheres of Saturn, Jupiter, Mars, the sun, Venus, Mercury, and the moon. It is because of this association with the visible moving heavenly bodies that this realm is called the astral plane (Gk. Aster = star). In the microcosm the astral plane, and the true imaginations that derive therefrom, are associated with the corresponding seven main inner organs (spleen, liver, heart, etc).
The world of true inspiration has its locus in the fixed stars, the zodiac. The world of intuition is born in the realms beyond the fixed stars, in the so-called Crystal Heaven. In Christian mythology, as formulated by Dionysius the Areopagite, all these regions are populated by the angelic host, the three major choirs of angels.
It is on the lower level of the super-sensible world, the astral plane, that the animals' guiding spirits or their group egos reside. From the realms stretching from Saturn to the moon, the spirit-beings that so wisely guide the animals are to be found. The migration of flocks, the building of nests, the running of salmon upstream, rutting seasons, the spinning of pupae, paper-making by the paper wasps, etc. are usually referred to as instinct
or innate behavior mechanisms
for lack of better understanding. When one looks only at the animal's nervous system and cerebral development, or their chromosomes, for that matter, one really cannot explain these complex behaviors. To do so is like looking at the hands of a clock, postulating an intrinsic reason for their movement without taking the background mechanism (the cogs and wheels) into account. In earlier times one tried to come to a closer understanding of the guiding forces of the animals by seeing their behavior in light of the rhythms of the sun, moon, and the other planets as they move against the background of the zodiacal constellations (Gk. zoion = animal; kyklos = circle; Zoidiakos = animal circle). Thus it was said that the I-Am, or the guiding spirits or egos of the animals, are not incarnated on the physical plane, as are the egos of individual human beings with their ego-bound self-consciousness. For animals, only the physical bodies, etheric bodies, and souls (anima, or astral bodies) are incarnated. One can say that there is an ego, or group-spirit, for each group or species of animal. This explains why in native tribes, almost without exception, medicine people or shamans claim in all seriousness to be conversing with animals that appear to them in (culturally modified) humanoid form. Native Americans, for example, would catapult themselves onto the imaginative plane of consciousness (the world of the spirits
) by ritually regulated fasting, isolation, monotonous drumming, dancing, or the use of psychotropic herbs. This allowed them to communicate with the grandfather,
grandmother,
or boss
of the animals and ask for protection, guidance, or special favors, such as asking the grandfathers to release some of their children to be hunted and promising in return to respect certain taboos. Young Indians seeking guidance and a life's mission try to contact the animal spirits on the super-sensible plane. The mind that is incapable of imaginative consciousness considers this to be superstition
and locates the causes of such behaviors in some intrinsic socio-psychological behavior mechanism
or in the function of cerebral chemistry.
Whereas we have our ego-consciousness (or I-Am) on the physical plane and animals have it on the astral plane, the plants have their egos or group spirits on the plane of the Harmony of the Spheres. This plane is accessible to the form of consciousness referred to by Steiner and the early Rosicrucians as inspiration and was located by them in the realm of the fixed stars, which includes the twelve regions of the zodiac. It is from here that the plant-archetypes (sometimes called Devas) direct their children, who are their physical and etheric bodies on earth. This is expressed poetically and somewhat sentimentally in the case of violets:
When God cuts holes in Heaven The holes the stars look through, He lets the little scraps fall down to earth— The little scraps are you.
These heavens are filled with Pythagoras' music of the spheres
. This music gives the world its geometry and order and arranges with its euphonic, rhythmical influences everything from the dance of the atoms to the harmonious symmetries of flowers. It shows itself in the correlation of the numerical ratios between the movement of the heavenly bodies, music, and plant forms. Perhaps this gives a reason why, as a number of studies have shown, plants are influenced by the vibrations of music. It is also interesting to note that this region is often seen as the heaven
where the departed ancestral spirits dwell, who then work on plant growth, on vegetation on the earth below.20
The seven planets modify with their movement and vibrations the influences radiating steadily from the plant spirit archetypes in the fixed stars. The planets, especially the sun and the moon, are responsible for daily and seasonal rhythms of the vegetation. They are the movers; they constitute the emotions
(Lat. ex movere = to move out, excite
) of the plant world. Thus, the ancient philosophers concluded, it is in the spheres of the seven planets that the souls of the plants reside. As Paracelsus states in his De Caducis:
Where is the workman that cuts out the forms of the lilies and roses that grow in the fields? And where are his workshop and tools? The characters of lilies and roses exist in the astral (star) light, and in the workshop of Nature they are made into forms. A blooming flower cannot be made out of mud, nor a man out of material clay; and he who denies the formative power of the astral light, and believes that something can be taken out of a body in which it does not does not exist.
The minerals have their physical bodies on earth, while their life force is found on the higher plane, where the animals have their egos and plants have their souls. The soul of the mineral is found in the fixed stars, while their archetypal spirits, or egos, are found in the highest heavens beyond the fixed stars. We can easily follow this in our thoughts, but to realize this we must have intuition, the so-called stone of the wise.
This is the sphere that the ancients referred to as the Crystal Heaven, and Australian aborigines express this when they claim that crystals found on earth must have broken off the seat of the highest god and fallen to earth, and that the greatest and wisest shaman carry such heavenly crystals in their bodies.
Although this discussion of levels and spheres might seem complicated, it is nonetheless greatly simplified, for it involves complex cosmologies. We permitted ourselves to peek at these immense worlds because, as holistic gardeners, we do not want to limit our view of plants, bugs, and birds to a narrow and isolating fashion, but we want to explore their proper place in the universe in relation to each other and to human beings. The study of the works of Rudolf Steiner and careful investigation of alchemy, ethnographic records, and folklore can help to clear up our fogged vision. Steiner's works contain unusual and interesting philosophical perceptions, which he does not ask us to believe as pontifical pronouncements, but as working hypotheses to be tested against our practical work and logical thinking.
If there is truth hidden in these cosmologies, could it be possible to really have contact with and talk with one's plants and animals? Could one tell the deer's grandfather
to leave the garden alone, or tell the caterpillar's spirit to go easy on the cabbage, or invite the songbirds to live in the garden? There are gardeners who claim something to that effect. There seems to be an explanation in this for the unusual garden of Findhorn, where gardeners claim to have contacted friendly nature spirits and are seeing
them and talking
to them with the result of growing large, healthy vegetables in cold, inhospitable northern Scotland. And perhaps the Amish are not just stubborn traditionalists when they link the powers of tractors and electricity with a demonic world; certainly the Amish have been able to maintain excellent farms without excessive destruction of the ecology.
In its more esoteric aspects, biodynamics works with considerations like these mentioned in this section, though a careful attempt is made not to take over unclear, atavistic, outmoded systems from the Middle Ages, Renaissance, or traditional native cultures, but to bring such ideas into accord with what is acceptable to modern rationality.
Transmutation, Destruction, and Creation of Matter
In nature, there is less death and destruction than death and transmutation.
Edwin Way Teale, American naturalist
Alchemy, that ancient science clothed in obscure symbols and surrounded by strange allegories, was practiced in China, India, the Mid-East, and medieval Europe. It concerned itself with the changing of substance (in its visible, as well as its etheric and spiritual form) into other substances, transmuting it into higher forms, composing and decomposing (
In its solid form, matter is dense and nonreceptive, subject only to the influences of the earth (i.e., gravity, magnetism). As a liquid, matter is receptive and reflective. It can receive influences issuing from the stars and planets, so that new impressions can be fixed into it. In its imponderable, fiery and airy state, it is, given that the other factors are right, greatly transmutable. Thus, man and stars can work into and influence substances when they are liquid or volatile. Therefore, the alchemists, when carrying out their operations, studied the planets, their positions and aspects carefully. By understanding these processes, the alchemists hoped to aid nature to complete its foreordained development of matter uniting with the spirit in a chemical wedding that would lead to health, wholesomeness and perfection of creation. The search was blessed by the finding of medicine (
In this work the alchemists, having subjected themselves to various purifications (for according to their thinking, like affects like), proceeded to subject matter to all sorts of operations in order to induce transmutations. The operations included calcination, congelation, fixation, solution, digestion, distillation, sublimation, separation, creation, fermentation, multiplication, projection, blackening, vitriolizing (the bath in sulfuric acid), and so on. If gold has been transmuted, then with the right tincture, it could be multiplied. (Though there here are reputable testaments to the effect that this had actually been achieved, I have my doubts that it happened in the real material world. But who knows?)
This view of the nature of the material universe, especially the idea of the transmutation of elements, the concept of the four elements and the making of gold, was scathingly ridiculed by Robert Boyle (1627–1691); and with the newer, enlightened scientists a new concept of matter started making its appearance. The great chemist Antoine Laurent Lavoisier (1743–1794) formulated the law of the conservation of matter: Nothing is created, nothing is destroyed, everything is transformed.
By the nineteenth century, the concept of matter was well defined and posed little problem. Studied carefully by brilliant researchers operating with a modern, scientific methodology and charted into the periodic table by D. I. Mendeleev, matter is seen as composed of atoms which combine into molecules, has mass and weight, occupies space, and is subject to gravity, inertia, and the law of entropy (the second law of thermodynamics). After the original big bang
(Kant-Laplace hypothesis), the law of entropy took over and now everything is seen as really in the process of winding down, like dust settling or a clock running down, until the energy is spent, the sun has burned out, and life is gone. Life and spirit are seen as epiphenomena
of this inevitable process. In agriculture, this meant teaching the farmers that plant processes are chemical reactions, animals are really machines, and that Liebig's theories could deal with inevitable soil depletion.
At this time alchemy was interpreted as the crude, superstition-ridden beginnings of chemistry, or as the confidence operations of gold-hungry swindlers. On the other hand, scholars such as Franz Hartmann and C. G. Jung saw only symbolism in alchemy that was projected into the world and really referred to spiritual striving or psychological processes.
Ideas, like immortals, do not die but emerge transformed. Alchemical concepts were developed further despite rejection and ridicule on part of the new science. Samuel Hahnemann (1755–1843) founded homeopathic medicine, which makes use of a number of alchemical concepts. Utilizing the principle that like works on like (
The nineteenth-century researcher Baron von Herzeele published the results of some 500 experiments between 1876 and 1883 that indicated the transmutation of elements within organic substances. He showed that the ash content of certain minerals increases within seeds sprouted in distilled water. He asserted that plant organisms could transmute it is not the soil that produces the plant, but the plant that produces the soil,
and wherever calcium or magnesium is found in the soil, a living organism must have preceded it.
These ideas run counter to everything that modern chemistry believes, such as the law of immutability of the elements, and, consequently, the publications were ignored until rediscovery by the mid-twentieth century.
When Rudolf Steiner was asked to hold his agricultural lectures in 1924 in response to the crisis in agriculture at the time, his recommendations and indications for preparations to aid the soil and compost smacked suspiciously of revitalized alchemy. He gave formulas for making preparations out of cow manure, quartz, and a number of herbs that were to be treated in various ways and then, greatly diluted, rhythmically stirred (potentized) to open them up to a number of instreaming forces from the cosmos. With this
I know quite well, those who have studied academic agriculture from a modern point of view will say:
You have still not told us how to improve the nitrogen content of manure.On the contrary, I have been speaking of it all the time, namely in speaking of yarrow, chamomile, and stinging nettle. For there is a hidden alchemy in the organic process. This hidden alchemy really transmuted the potash, for example, into nitrogen, provided only that the potash is working properly in the organic process. Nay more, it even transforms into nitrogen the limestone, the chalky nature, if it is working rightly.
He states that silicon, too, is transmuted in the living organism—transmuted into a substance of great importance, which, however, is not yet included among the elements at all.
In another place he makes the statement that the human organism would, if within a closed room where the air consistency is somewhat low in nitrogen, create its own nitrogen. In earlier lectures (Dornach 1923), he makes distinctions between earth substance that is being spiritualized and spiritual substance that is materializing. The former are finely-wrought substances that have been thoroughly worked on by formative forces, such as the delicate plumage of birds, the dust on butterfly wings, the delicacy of flowers, and the physiognomy of a person who has spent his life in virtue and thought. The latter are new substances that are fresh in the earth-sphere, such as mother's milk, egg yolks, snow, and cow manure, which bring spirit substance
to the earth. Elsewhere he talks of digestion as a process of the transformation of matter from the solid state by chewing it with the teeth to the liquid state in the stomach, to the gaseous state in the intestine, and the sublimation of matter and creation of warmth beyond the intestinal walls. The feces themselves are a waste product of this process, its ashes so to say. The process is analogous to what happens when the plant grows from the solid root or seed through the elemental phases and sublimates itself in flowering. On the other hand, the impressions of light and warmth that enter our senses condense in the body into form-building substance. Regarding the law of entropy, Steiner declares that it works in the purely mineral, physical world. But in the world of living matter, the opposite is true; forces streaming from the sun are constantly replenishing energy. We see that this philosopher is at home with concepts of the appearance and disappearance of substances, the transmutation of substances, the use of rhythm to create and dissolve forces in substances, the use of homeopathic entities, and other alchemical concepts.
What are we to make of these concepts and of what value are they? A Jungian psychologist might say that they are psychic projections onto nature, and, as such, they have value for the farmer and gardener, for as he stirs and sprays his biodynamic preparations over the land, he connects his psyche with the realm of his activity, creating a personal relationship to the land. It is, nonetheless, merely a subjective phenomenon.
Or one might realize that this approach makes sense phenomenologically. Just as the geocentric model of the universe makes sense in explaining the immediate phenomena of observable astronomic data, though actually the heliocentric model is the correct
one, one can say that Steiner's system of concepts makes sense on the phenomenological level in that it can adequately describe what one sees, such as the sprouting and blooming annual cycle of vegetation, the sudden appearance and disappearance of bugs, the production of milk and manure, the stages of composting, and so forth. But the question is: Does it provide useful knowledge and does it make scientific sense?
The success of biodynamic farms speaks for itself, and the concepts involved even make a lot more sense now in the beginning of the twenty-first century than they did back in 1924.
The concept of transmutation of elements started coming back with the discovery of the unstable trans-uranic elements, which transmute into lead and other elements, while giving off rays and heat. The concept of the finality of solid matter has been shaken since Einstein's theorem in response to the influence of other matter.
With the discovery of about two hundred subatomic particles, modern physicists can no longer say what matter is. It has been de-materialized; it almost looks like the Hindu's maya.
In a more immediate sense, Steiner's indications are finding confirmation by a number of researches conducted by scientists such as Rudolf Hauschka, Eugen and Lili Kolisko, Ehrenfried Pfeiffer, Louis Kervran, Henri Spindler, Pierre Baranger and others.
Kolisko and Kolisko carried out sixteen years of far-ranging research on the effect of the biodynamic preparations, on cosmic influences on plant growth, and on the effect of the use of homeopathic entities. The results verify Steiner's indications to a large extent.
Rudolf Hauschka, longtime director of the research laboratory of the Clinical Therapeutic Institute in Arlesheim, Switzerland and director of the WALA pharmaceutical company, became know primarily for his book The Nature of Substances. He took up some of Herzeele's findings, tested and verified them in the Arlesheim laboratory. Experimenting with cress seeds, he placed them in measured amounts of distilled water into hermetically sealed ampules. In weighing the ampules carefully three times a day, he found that the weight increased and decreased, fluctuating with the rhythm of lunar phases, with increases during the full moon and decreases during the new moon periods. The results were difficult for Hauschka to repeat. He found, however, that with organically grown seeds the results were somewhat more satisfactory. Perhaps the difficulty in repeating the experiment has to do with the nature of the subject under investigation, where often events occur together, but not causally (Law of Seriality described by Paul Kammerer); or, as Hauschka supposed, there are unknown factors involved.
The biologist Henri Spindler discovered changes in the iodine level in the algae Laminaria saccharina. Within periods of twenty-four to forty-eight hours, he found that the iodine content varied up to 100 percent, even though the algae had been kept in hermitically sealed containers. He also noted an increase of up to 15 percent potassium content in the algae. He concluded that organic matter might not be derived from inorganic matter, rather that the mineral substances have been excreted from organic processes like the bark from a living tree. Spindler's research stimulated Professor Pierre Baranger of the organic chemistry laboratory of the Ecole Polytechnique of Paris to check out Herzeele's work with the aid of modern equipment and procedures. After thousands of carefully run tests, he reports that there is indisputable evidence that plants are capable of the transmutation of elements. After ten years of research with legume seed, Baranger verified that during germination manganese had disappeared while an equal amount of iron had appeared. He concludes that there must be unknown energies in living organisms that can carry out these transmutations.
Louis Kervran, in his book Biological Transmutations, notes the numerous discrepancies found in the chemistry of living organisms. He notes the countless instances where matter seems to be created anew or transmuted from another substance. For example, herbivorous animals whose nourishment contains small amounts of nitrogenous substances excrete more N that they take in; the opposite happens in carnivores. He notes the modification of the chemical composition of the soil due to earthworms; the increase in S, P, Mg, and Ca in dried fruit. His experiments show decrease in phosphorous in germinating lentils, increases in Ca in sprouting plants when calcium is lacking in the growing medium, and that hatched chicks have four times the calcium originally found in the egg. Hens kept on a calcium-free diet are capable of transmuting the potassium from mica flakes into the Ca needed for their shells. He notes that organic silica (as found in horsetail, for example) aids broken fingernails and helps mend broken bones by transmuting into calcium. He concludes that organic life cannot be explained in terms of inorganic chemistry; that the law of entropy does not work for living organisms; that experiments performed on dead tissue or in nonrepresentative, sterile laboratory situations are not conclusive for living substances; he cautions against generalizations: the transmutations are operations requiring a specific production of enzymes and a medium allowing the physiological development of cells, or microorganisms. One kind of plant will thus make a transmutation that another cannot make.
The findings of these scientists help us understand how, at the agricultural research station in Rothamstead, England, an experimental plot could be cropped for over one hundred years and still come up with a steady, although low, harvest of wheat without fertilizer. Rain and wind-blown nutriments could not cover the loss of elements incurred with each harvest. Also at Rothamstead, a clover field was cropped two to three times a year for seventeen years without fertilizer added:
This piece of land gave cuttings so abundant that it was estimated that if one had to add what had been removed... (during the 17-year period)... it would not have been necessary to dump on the field over 5,700 pounds of lime, 2,700 pounds of magnesia, 4,700 pounds of potash, 2,700 pounds of phosphoric acid, and 5,600 pounds of nitrogen or more than ten tons of the products combined. Where had all of these minerals come from?
This research also explains some of the phenomena observed by E. Pfeiffer, who noted that there is accumulation of copper in some legumes and grasses although the soils are devoid of it; that tobacco is rich in potassium when it grows in soil poor in potassium and vice versa; that oaks rich in calcium (60 percent of the bark) grow in sandy, calcium-poor soil; that Spanish moss growing on wires accumulates numerous elements for its life functions, which would be difficult to get out of the air or rainwater. Pfeiffer assumes that plants have a remarkable ability to accumulate these elements and concentrate them. Another assumption one can make is that plants are capable of creating these elements.
Theodor Schwenk carried out a study of the dynamics of fluids, of the sensitivity of water. He shows convincingly that stirring and rhythmic shaking of water creates countless moving interfaces as the molecules move past each other at varying speeds. This magnetizes
and sensitizes the water to substances dissolved in it and even to cosmic occurrences, such as eclipses and constellations. His drop method
of studying the characteristic forms of different kinds of water by letting it drop into glycerin indicates that the characteristic drops are affected by cosmic phenomena. Similar studies by Giorgio Piccardi, of the Institute of Physical Chemistry of Florence, confirm that water is affected by cosmic phenomena such as the outbreak of solar eruptions, and proposes that these influences working through the water continue to work in living organisms.20
In conclusion, we can see that Steiner's holistic concepts take on ever more credence. Gardening involves the incredibly complicated alchemy of life, involving not just plants and animals, but the entire cosmos and the microcosm. The agriculture of today is not capable of taking all of the facts into account, not even with the most sophisticated computer simulations. Modern agriculture should begin by reexamining its philosophical foundations.
Biodynamic Water
In addition to being a solvent or vehicle for transporting substances, water has another more subtle and perhaps more important function as a carrier of forces and forms. At first sight this may seem rather a far-fetched claim; but anyone who has stood on a bridge watching flowing water should have no reservations about accepting it. The way in which vortices and wave patterns are taken up, played with for a while, and then discarded only to give place to others is surely quite convincing. T. Schwenk, in his book Sensitive Chaos, has illustrated in many beautiful ways this form-creating power of water, and has demonstrated how these appearing and disappearing forms correspond with those of human and animal organs, suggesting that water must play a large part in bringing them into being during the embryonic growth period.
It is this form-creating property which seems to be utilised in the preparation of homoeopathic remedies. After making the 24th decimal potency there is theoretically not a single atom or molecule of the original substance left, yet in some way as yet not fully understood, much higher dilutions can have marked effects on living systems. The current explanation is that the water molecules arrange themselves in corresponding patterns; an infinite number of patterns is then theoretically possible, and this gets over the difficulty that a huge number of different patterns would be necessary to cover all the possible potencies which can be made. But this does not explain how the patterns can have an effect in practice. The point to bear in mind here is that they are inoperative in the purely mineral world: only when they are applied to living systems can effects be observed. When we come to discuss the forces operative in the plant kingdom, perhaps a clearer picture will emerge. In the meantime be it noted that the bio-dynamic method uses this power of water to spread the effects of certain preparations for treating soil and plants.
In days gone by gardeners used to make a point of collecting rain which fell during thunderstorms. That this water should have special living properties is not surprising in view of what Ernst Lehrs has to say about thunderstorms in his book Man or Matter, in which he postulates that thunder rain has been newly condensed out of the cosmos. It is also possible to obtain specially active water by causing rainwater to flow in an open channel from one container to another for a few minutes just before and after the exact time of the full moon. It has been shown that seed germinates quicker if watered with water that has been exposed to the full moon for a night. Again, some extravagant claims have been made for the vital activity of water which has been charged
through an unusual type of electric condenser using beeswax as the dielectric. Conversely, farmers who use irrigation water from large dams claim that it has a deadening effect on crops immediately below the dam and that it needs to flow freely for at least a mile before it regains its life. That this claim may have some substance is borne out by experimental work with flow forms based at Emerson College.
Finally, in order to deepen our understanding of water's manifold being, let us dwell for a moment on two other remarkable features. The first is the sensitive way in which it reflects Nature's moods and co-operates with them. As examples we may take a slow-moving stream or river in midsummer, the surface of a lake on a clear still night, or the fury of the sea during a storm. The second is the enormous power which water can amass when it collects or is collected in bulk. Under control behind a dam it can give us electricity, but the surging joy with which it escapes from the turbines is an indication of the frustration which it felt at being pent up against its natural tendency to flow, a frustration which it vents in terrifying fashion if the dam should chance to break. Or again the devastating might of a tsunami or tidal wave as it approaches the shore must be one of the most frightening experiences a man can have on earth.
Biodynamic Principles and Practices
- A Biodynamic Farm Is a Living Organism
- Each biodynamic farm or garden is an integrated, whole, living organism. This organism is made up of many interdependent elements: fields, forests, plants, animals, soils, compost, people, and the spirit of the place. Biodynamic farmers and gardeners work to nurture and harmonize these elements, managing them in a holistic and dynamic way to support the health and vitality of the whole. Biodynamic practitioners also endeavor to listen to the land, to sense what may want to emerge through it, and to develop and evolve their farm as a unique individuality.
- Biodynamics Cultivates Biodiversity
- Biodynamic farms and gardens are inspired by the biodiversity of natural ecosystems and the uniqueness of each landscape. Annual and perennial vegetables, herbs, flowers, berries, fruits, nuts, grains, pasture, forage, native plants, and pollinator hedgerows can all contribute to plant diversity, amplifying the health and resilience of the farm organism. Diversity in domestic animals is also beneficial, as each animal species brings a different relationship to the land and unique quality of manure. The diversity of plant and animal life can be developed over time, starting with a few primary crops and one or two species of animals (even as small as earthworms or honeybees), and adding more species as the farm organism matures.
- Biodynamics Brings Plants and Animals Together
- Natural ecosystems include both plants and animals, which work together to fill complementary roles in the web of life. Many conventional and organic farms only grow crops or only raise livestock, which may be more efficient by some measures, but creates imbalances such as nutrient deficiency (if only growing plants) or pollution from excess manure (if only raising animals). Biodynamic farms and gardens work to bring plants, animals, and soil together through living, conscious relationships, so that they each support and balance the whole
- Biodynamics Generates On-Farm Fertility
- Biodynamic plants are grown in the ground in living soil, which provides a quality of health and nutrition not possible with chemical fertilizers or hydroponic growing. Biodynamic farms aspire to generate their own fertility through composting, integrating animals, cover cropping, and crop rotation. Composting brings animal manures, plant material, and soil into healthy relationship and transforms them into a potent source of strength and fertility for the farm organism. Integrating a diversity of animals helps cycle nutrients and provides manures that nurture the soil. Cover crops also contribute to on-farm fertility, adding plant diversity and bringing life and sensitivity to the soil through oxygen and nitrogen. Crop rotation helps balance the needs of each crop and enables a diversity of creative expression in the soil. Together, these practices reduce or eliminate the need for imported fertilizers and enable the farm to move toward equilibrium and resilience.
- Compost Is Enlivened with Biodynamic Preparations
- Biodynamic compost is enhanced and enlivened through the use of six preparations made from yarrow, chamomile, stinging nettle, oak bark, dandelion, and valerian. Each of these medicinal herbs is transformed through a unique process that brings it into relationship with the animal kingdom, the earth, and the cycle of the year. Bringing these elements together magnifies their healing qualities, fosters the growth of beneficial bacteria and fungi, and creates powerfully concentrated substances to guide the development of the compost. A small quantity of each preparation is added to the compost pile just after it is built, and again after it is turned. Biodynamic preparations strengthen the quality of the compost by stabilizing nitrogen3 and other nutrients, multiplying microbial diversity,4 and bringing more sensitivity to the composting process. Biodynamic compost helps attune the soil to the whole farm organism and wider influences while increasing soil life5 and stable organic matter.4,6 Biodynamic compost also brings more carbon into the living realm, helping to restore balance to the climate.
- Biodynamic Farmers Cultivate Awareness
- Biodynamic agriculture invites us to develop a conscious and creative conversation with nature. By observing, sensing, and listening to the land, we develop intimate relationships with our unique farm organisms and expand our capacities for perception, reflection, and imagination. Biodynamics is not a fixed recipe or prescription. Cultivating awareness strengthens our ability to work creatively with the dynamics of the land and wider bioregion to bring the vibrancy of the farm organism to full expression.
- Biodynamics Supports Integrity and Diversity in Seeds and Breeds
- Biodynamic farmers and gardeners favor open-pollinated, heirloom, and non-GMO seeds and heritage breeds of animals. Biodynamic farms work toward generating seed and animal stocks from within the farm, incorporating selection and breeding into farm activities when possible in order to develop unique, locally-adapted, and sensitized plants and animals with excellent nutrition and flavor, and resistance to pests and diseases. As in other aspects of biodynamics, earthly and cosmic influences are considered in developing plants and animals that can thrive in current conditions and contribute to the health of the farm and community.
- Biodynamic Sprays Enhance Soil and Plant Health
- In addition to the compost preparations, several biodynamic preparations are applied as potentized liquid sprays to bring healing, vitality, and sensitivity to the farm and garden. Horn manure enhances the life of the soil and the relationship between soil and plants and is made from cow manure buried inside a cow horn during the winter months. Horn silica increases plant immunity, strengthens photosynthesis, enhances ripening, and is prepared from ground quartz crystals buried in a cow horn over the summer months. Horsetail tea helps prevent fungal diseases and balances the watery element in plants and soil. Together, the biodynamic spray and compost preparations bring plants into a dynamic relationship with soil, water, air, warmth, and cosmos to help them develop in a healthy and balanced way, access the full spectrum of nutrients they need, and become more resilient to pests, diseases, and extreme climate conditions.
- Biodynamics Treats Animals with Respect
- Biodynamic farmers care for domestic animals in ways that support their inherent health and the full expression of their nature. Animals are given feed that is appropriate for their digestive systems and are never fed animal by-products. Calves, lambs, and kids are raised on the milk of the herd, not milk replacer. Chickens keep their beaks and cows keep their horns, as each part of the animal serves an important natural function. All animals have access to the outdoors and free range forage, along with plenty of space to move around freely.
- Biodynamics Works in Rhythm with Earth and Cosmos
- Biodynamic farmers and gardeners observe the rhythms and cycles of the earth, sun, moon, stars, and planets and seek to understand the subtle ways that the environment and wider cosmos influence the growth and development of plants and animals. Biodynamic calendars support this awareness and understanding by providing detailed astronomical information and indications of optimal times for sowing, transplanting, cultivating, harvesting, and using the biodynamic preparations.
- Biodynamic Certification Upholds Agricultural Integrity
- The Demeter Biodynamic® Standard for certification was established in 1928 and is managed worldwide by Demeter International. Over 5,000 farms encompassing more than 400,000 acres are certified in 60 countries around the globe. Biodynamic certification in the United States is managed by Demeter USA (www.demeter-usa.org) and uses the USDA organic standard as a foundation with additional requirements. Beyond organic certification, the Demeter Biodynamic Farm Standard requires that the whole farm, and not just a specific crop, is certified; crops and livestock are integrated and animals are treated humanely; imported fertility is kept to a minimum; the biodynamic preparations are regularly applied; at least 50% of livestock feed is grown on farm; at least 10% of the total farm acreage is set aside for biodiversity; and the farm upholds standards of social responsibility.
- Biodynamics Approaches Pests and Diseases Holistically
- Biodynamics focuses on creating the conditions for optimal soil, plant, and animal health, providing balanced nutrition and supporting healthy immunity. When farms and gardens incorporate a robust diversity of plants and animals and create habitat for natural predators, pests and diseases have few places to thrive. When a disease or pest presents itself, it is often pointing to an imbalance in the farm organism, and can be seen as nature's way of trying to correct the imbalance. In the case of an outbreak, biological controls can be used, but a biodynamic farmer also tries to discern the underlying imbalance and find ways to adjust management practices to bring the farm organism to greater health.
- Biodynamics Offers Regenerative Solutions for the Future
- Biodynamics is a conscious, participatory, and responsible way of farming and being in the world, which brings healing to soil, plants, animals, people, and planet. Each unique and self-sustaining farm organism contributes generously to the ecological, economic, social, and spiritual vitality of its surrounding community, and the whole living Earth. Through biodynamics, we can access new capacities in human creativity to sense and respond to the needs of the Earth, and unfold new solutions in a living and dynamic way.
- Biodynamics Contributes to Social and Economic Health
- Biodynamic farmers are motivated by a desire to meet the real needs of people and the Earth, which often extends beyond growing food. Most biodynamic initiatives seek to embody triple bottom line approaches (ecological, social, and economic sustainability), taking inspiration from Steiner's insights into social, economic, and spiritual life, as well as agriculture. Community supported agriculture (CSA), was pioneered by biodynamic farmers, and many biodynamic practitioners work in creative partnerships with other farms and with schools, medical and wellness facilities, restaurants, hotels, homes for social therapy, and other organizations. Biodynamics is both a radical concept of regenerative agriculture and a potent movement for new thinking and practices in all aspects of life connected to food and land.
The Farm Individuality
In biodynamic agriculture, each farm or garden is viewed as an integrated whole, as a living organism in its own right. Like a human being, a farm is made up of many different organs and systems. When these are managed and brought together in a dynamic way, they interact positively with one another to support the health and well-being of the whole. And like a human being, each farm is unique, with its own personality and identity. The holistic expression of a farm's unique potential is referred to as the farm individuality.
The farm individuality encompasses soil types and characteristics—such as mineral content, organic matter, and the mix of sand, silt, and clay—as well as forests and meadows, wetlands and cultivated ground, flowering trees and shrubs, domestic and wild animals, buildings and equipment, and human beings living and working on the land. It also includes the history, character, and purpose of the farm as well as more subtle, energetic aspects of the region and landscape.
Biodynamic farmers strive to develop an intimate understanding of each element of the farm, and the creative potential of the farm as a whole. From this understanding they work to bring the elements of the farm into right relationship. This process allows the farm individuality to express itself continuously over time and share its gifts of health and vitality with the local community.
Biodynamic farmers and gardeners work toward balancing the soil and creating a farm individuality that is a self-sustaining whole, where fertility and feed come from within the farm rather than from outside. A closed-loop system has environmental and economic benefits, but there are also more subtle ways in which this approach enlivens the health of farms and gardens.
Now, a farm comes closest to its own essence when it can be conceived of as a kind of independent individuality, a self-contained entity. In reality, every farm ought to aspire to this state of being a self-contained individuality. This state cannot be achieved completely, but it needs to be approached. This means that within our farms, we should attempt to have everything we need for agricultural production, including, of course, the appropriate amount of livestock. From the perspective of an ideal farm, any fertilizers and so forth that are brought in from outside would indeed have to be regarded as remedies for a sickened farm. A healthy farm would be one that could produce everything it needs from within itself.
Rudolf Steiner in the Agriculture Course, June 1924
When manure is used from our own livestock to fertilize our crops, we are keeping nutrients within our farm, as well as creating a feedback loop of subtle communication. The animals and plants on a particular farm share the same environment, the same ecosphere, and the same influences—cosmic, earthly, and human. As an animal eats, she senses and takes in substance from the plants on the farm where she lives, and sends this substance through the complex, living system of her body. In the process, she adds enzymes, bacteria, and other living organisms. She then releases a digested form of the plant with a dose of her own essence, as well as a message
about what is needed to bring that field into greater balance and vitality.
We can then take this manure—this already digested plant material that has now been infused with animal life and an animal's sensitivity—and further develop it through composting. By creating compost and adding the biodynamic preparations, the whole process is taken to the next level of life, stimulating the vitality. As the composted manure is returned to the fields, the soil receives both nutrients and valuable information, which brings enhanced vitality to the food grown on the farm.
When seeing a farm as a whole organism, the view of weeds, pests, and diseases changes. Each of these becomes a valuable messenger, revealing an imbalance in the farm and inviting us to correct that underlying imbalance. A weed might tell us that our soil has become too compacted; a fly infestation in our cow herd might tell us that we need more wild birds on the farm. Although short-term solutions to manage these problems may be necessary, the biodynamic approach emphasizes learning from these problems and changing management practices to increase the health of the garden or farm as a whole.
I believe that building the
farm organismand incorporating compost are essential foundations in which the biodynamic preparations can reach their full potential in weaving together the material (earthly) and cosmic (planetary) influences. The farmer or gardener's spiritual development consists in working within these realms as participant, observer, and orchestrator. I feel I'm co-evolving with the farm as I develop the sensitivity to understand what is needed and what to do, abandoning the failures and creating new solutions to adapt to an ever-changing environment.Janet Gamble, Turtle Creek Gardens
To create a healthy farm individuality, it is also crucial to work with the plants and animals towards adaptation and localization of a given place. The aim is to save as much seed as possible, so the expression of the place is embodied by the plants. Another goal is to close
a herd of animals so that the genetic base is improving in relation to the place where the herd lives. When animals eat crops from their own farm, out of a soil and mineral complex that has received enlivened fertility through compost and manure from the farm, a subtle but real connection and communication among all the parts of the whole can be noticed. In essence, the natural landscape has been guided towards the creation of an organism that has to some extent the ability to be self-regulating.
As the human population has grown and technology has increased our ability to extract resources from the Earth, many of us have deep questions about how humanity can continue living on our Earth in a healthy way. The art of working with the abundance and limitations that exist within a closed farm organism is a microcosm of how we might live within the abundance and limitations of our planet.
I have a feeling that I, as an aspiring human being, will get a better and better sense of who I am as an individual the more I can really be connected to the rest of the world. The same could be said about a farm: the more completely and deeply it is tied into its environment (cosmic and terrestrial), the closer it will get to becoming a farm individuality. Many of the biodynamic practices support that—especially the preparations, livestock, and compost.
Steffen Schneider, Hawthorne Valley Farm
While a biodynamic farm strives to be self-sustaining and in some ways self-contained, it is not closed to the world. Tremendous energy streams into the farm daily from the sun and stars, and rain and wind bring water and minerals. A similar generosity and abundance is expressed from the farm individuality toward the wider world when the farm is healthy. Embedded in the farm individuality is life-giving potential, not merely to avoid exploitation, but to offer rejuvenation.
When we saw an infestation of thistle in our pastures, we asked: Why is this plant here? What is this plant trying to communicate about the soil, about the way we graze our cattle, and about the way we are using the biodynamic preparations, horn silica in particular? We also asked: What is this plant indicating about the way we are interacting with this land and with each other?
We studied the plant itself, physically, artistically, meditatively. We studied the soil, the field history, the folklore around the plant. And we also studied ourselves. A year later we have changed our land management techniques and, upon reflection, we have also changed our selves.
Laura Riccardi Lyvers, Foxhollow Farm
Practical Aspects of Biodynamic Gardening
This section is concerned with practical applications. Though we will be talking about microorganisms and cat-ion exchanges, the focus remains holistic, comprehensive, and macrocosmic.
We begin with the great polarity, the terrestrial factors, mother earth, and cosmic factors, father sky, the sun-moon planets. Leaving the sphere of the elements, our attention is turned to the sphere of life, starting with composting, where life and death processes hold each other in balance, and how to prepare composts that will capture life forces and make them available to our plants. Then we attempt to make natural plant sociology work for us in correct companion planting and proper crop rotation. The major plant families that we meet in the garden are identified and the function of weeds is explored. Negative astral influences in the form of pests, insects, and fungi are discussed next, and natural biodynamic medicines and preparations are studied. Information on harvest, storage, seeds and seed production, garden tools, herbs, hints on cooking, and on social aspects make up the concluding sections.
Terrestrial Factors
Soil
Soil is the creative material of most of the basic needs of life. Creation starts with a handful of dust.
William A. Albrecht (1888–1974), eminent soil scientist
Until recently, materialistic science thought of the soil as merely a substance to hold plants up and to provide chemical building blocks for their growth. Recent experiments with hydroponics, growing plants in a watery medium without soil, seem to verify this theory. However, studies show that, besides the need for constant flushing and oxygenating of the liquid medium, the hydroponically grown plants steadily lose vitality and germination ability after a number of years. These hypertrophying plants absorb the chemicals in an unbalanced manner. For the city dweller in crowded quarters, windowsill, balcony, or rooftop hydroponics might give pleasure and an occasional snack, but for larger scale gardening it is not to be recommended.
Before modern science came to view soil in terms of chemical constituents and mechanical processes, the soil was literally sacred. It was the mother earth from which all living creatures sprang and to whom they all returned, eternally virgin, ever fertile and receptive. Appearing in many forms and called by many names, she was worshipped in India as Old Believers:
The first mother is the holy Mother of God, The second, the moist mother Earth, The third, the mother who gives birth in pain.
We understand the immigrating Sicilian peasant who brings with him a handful of his native soil. For the alchemists the soil was an expression of the amorphous
The Phenomenology of Soil
In keeping with the goetheanistic approach, we should first let the soil impress itself onto our senses before we project our metaphysical and theoretical considerations. What does the soil look like? Is it light or dark? How does it feel? Is it crumbly, gritty, or greasy; does it have a fine or a course texture? How does it smell? Does it have the good, plowed-earth smell? How much life is there in the soil and are there earthworms? Do the weeds look healthy and which weeds grow there?
Usually, when we dig a trench, we notice a profile of soil layers called soil horizons. Generally, the top layer is simply loose debris, covering darkly colored crumbly matter. The dark coloration is most often due to carbonaceous, organic matter. This layer is referred to as the A-horizon. This zone is most alive with microorganisms and is also referred to as the edaphon. The next layer, the B-horizon, is lighter in color and contains many suspended and dissolved organic silicate, clay, or iron particles. This is referred to as the zone of eluviation. Below this is usually weathered parent material called the C-horizon. It is important to familiarize oneself with the parent material, the bedrock, for this will tell a lot about the soil's needs.
The climate, temperature, rainfall, and topography are as important as the parent bedrock in the formation of the soil, so that only the general, overall characteristics can be given here. Sandstone bedrock will give light, sandy soils that will heat and also cool quickly, have poor water-holding capacity, and poor nutrient-holding capacity. They are well aerated, drain well, and easily worked. These soils readily transmit light and warmth etheric forces, so that carrots, potato tubers, and asparagus will do well in them. They provide a good basis for wine and herb cultures since light and warmth ether are related to quality and aroma. Granite bedrock, a metamorphic-igneous rock, has a differential weathering rate, such that its quartz component weathers slowest, its mica component at a middle rate, and its feldspar component (orthoclase or plagioclase) is weathered the most quickly. The result is that the soluble minerals (Ca, Mg, Na, K) are soon washed out, while Si, Fe, and Al accumulate. This leads to a sandy soil that is acidic and poor in nutrients, especially phosphorus. Limestone bedrock will produce soils rich in Ca, whose structure is usually good and where life and chemical etheric forces (earth and water ether) work to produce good, quantitative yields. Legumes do well on these slightly alkaline soils.
If the parent material is clay, or shale, the derivative soils are heavy, compact, heat and cool slowly, hold much water, and drain badly. Though they are hard to work and slow to get warmed in the spring, they have great potential for fertility, especially if supplied lime and organic matter, for their colloidal structure has a large surface area that can hold nutrient ions. When Steiner indicates that clay is a good transmitter of etheric forces, this should not be confused with poor draining and warming ability; rather it refers to the potential of these soils for good quantitative and qualitative yields. Blue-gray clay indicates poor drainage (iron reduction), red clay indicates better aeration (iron oxidation), and yellow indicates hydration and oxidation of iron.
Humus refers to the organically derived compounds that give the soil a dark to black color due to the carbon contents.
A simple overview of the soil types is provided by the soil quadrant for classifying soils according to their humus, sand, lime, and clay contents:
The closer the soil is to loam, the more each of the four types are represented in the soil, the more ideal it is for good growing conditions.
The texture of the soil refers to the coarseness ranging from gravel, to sand (1/50' particles), to silt (1/500–12,000'), to clay (1/12,000' +).
Structure refers to the friability, crumbliness, tilth, or good heart of the soil. Its opposite is compaction and hard-pan. Good structure is indicated when a handful of soil can be molded into a ball and holds its shape until flicked by a finger, causing it to crumble readily. Good structure is due mainly to mycelial growth (the mass of interwoven hyphae of fungi) and the gummy excretions of microorganisms found in humus.
This humus in combination with inorganic colloids (clay-silicate colloids) forms the important clay-humus complexes that characterize rich, ripe garden soils. These clay-humus complexes, besides improving the tilth (friability), have the ability to hold on to six times their weight in water, to hold the positively charged cations (e.g., Ca, Mg, K, NH3, Na, etc.) and to buffer the soil against too much acidity or alkalinity. Whereas soil bacteria, humus, calcium, phosphorus, and clay help create this desired structure, or friability, the acid residues of artificial fertilizers in chemical salt form break down soil structure and clay-humus complexes. Deep plowing and heavy machinery have a similar effect in increasing compaction.
Acidity or alkalinity or the sweetness or sourness of the soil, is indicated by the pH scale (Percentage Base Saturation), which ranges from 1 to 14.
Soils range from very acid soils of about a pH of 4, which is about the acidity of tomato juice, beer, or grass silage, to a pH of 8, which is about as alkaline as seawater or eggs. Most plants prefer to grow in earth that has a pH of 6 to 7. Humus buffers the soil between 6 and 7. Wet soils are usually sour; they have low base saturation because the bases (Ca, Mg, Na, K, etc.) usually leach out in the rain, leaving an excess number of hydrogen ions that are the indicator of acidity. Sandy soils, peat-moss formations, and the podsols of northern, wet climates furnish examples of this happening. In dry climates, as in southern California or Central Asia, for example, where the evaporation rate exceeds precipitation, the opposite happens; alkalinity increases and salts are deposited (as a white sheen) on the surface of the soil. Before indicator tests for pH came about, farmers could tell by looking at the weeds whether a soil was sweet or sour. The presence of sorrel, sour dock, buttercups, tussocks, hawkweeds, horsetails, knotweeds, cinquefoil, and daisies usually indicate acidic soil, whereas alfalfa, sweet clover, burdock, colt's foot, chamomile, and others indicate sweet soil.
The application of chemical fertilizer tends to acidify the soils so that the addition of large quantities of lime is concomitant with their use. Humus derived from careful composting, on the other hand, has such a buffering effect so that the organic gardener does not have to worry about the pH at all. Humus and microorganisms buffer the soil by letting excess H ions go when the soil is too acidic and letting Ca ions go when the soil is too base. If, for the sake of a special culture, the gardener wishes to increase the pH, he can sweeten the soil by the addition of ground limestone or dolomite; or she can make the soil more acidic by adding pine needle mulch, coffee grounds, oak leaf mulch, cottonseed meal, etc.
How is Soil Created?
Soils are created out of the mother substance by the influence of cosmic forces working through fluctuations in climatic rhythms, temperature, rainfall, splitting, and erosion. These forces are usually labeled mechanical forces. Secondly, there are chemical forces working in the life and chemical ether such as hydrolysis, when water works on feldspar forming clay; hydration, where the water combines chemically with other molecules; oxidation, where the oxygen combines with such minerals as Fe, Mg, Ti, Cu, etc.; and carbonation, where water combines with carbon dioxide to form carbonic acid in which lime, soda, and potash become soluble. Most soil formation is, however, the direct result of living organisms working to create the proper living conditions for themselves. Roots and small soil organisms use a number of chemical forces (oxidation, reduction, carbonation) in order to modify the soil, and large roots and burrowing animals often act as mechanical forces.
We are essentially correct in following Rudolf Hauschka and Baron von Herzeele in concluding that wherever there is soil, living organisms have preceded it. When we consider, for example, rocks freshly exposed in a rock quarry: before long, lichens will appear on the bare rock, where they will thrive and spread. How are these plants able to survive these exposed, adverse conditions? From where do they get their nutrients? If we examine the lichen closely, we find two organisms, a fungus and an alga, living in a mutually beneficial association or symbiosis. The alga, containing green chlorophyll, can photosynthesize and create necessary sugars and starches for feeding itself and its partner. The fungus, in turn, provides a leathery covering for the alga that keeps it from drying out; it supplies the necessary minerals and transmits water to it. Where do these minerals come from? The fungus splits them out of the tightly held molecular bonds of the rock structure, dissolves and transfers them from the lithosphere into the biosphere. The lichens are capable of chelation (Gr. chela = claw, pincher), or of pinching the minerals off from the bare rock. The rock residues and older lichens, as they die off, become debris. The spores of mosses may fall into this proto soil. Mossy pads will form on the rock, assaulting it further with carbonic acids and other excretions. Older generations of mosses will form the substrata for next generations, creating a spongy mass that is able to hold water successfully. Soon, spores of more advanced plants, such as ferns, will find footholds. Gymnosperms and flowering plants will eventually find enough substance to gain a hold, developing strong roots that can crack the rock further. Small animals will now be added, who will supply nutrients to the plants at the same time that they feed on them. Here we have a picture of how soil is formed and can appreciate a miniature recapitulation of plant evolution therein.
A key factor is the chelating ability of plants, especially of the fungi. About 90 percent of the plant species live in a symbiotic relationship with a fungus that is associated with their root network. These root fungi, or mycorrhizae, make it possible for the great stands of conifers to find adequate nourishment in very poor soils. Similar to this is the symbiosis between legumes and rhizobia that helps bring nitrogen into nitrogen-deficient soils. If artificial nitrogen is supplied to the soil, the rhizobia will not work. We see how plants actively work at creating for themselves the soil they need. Some plants function as accumulators and change the soil in one direction or another, e.g., daisies collect calcium in acid soils, horsetail collects silicon even in silicon-poor soils, orache (genus Atriplex) collects salt, etc. When these plants die they will enrich the soil with these elements and change it correspondingly. Through their life activity, by fixing
The Soil as a Living Organ of the Earth Organism
When we look at the microbial populations that inhabit the soil, we can in no way think of it as just a physical substance that obeys only the laws of inorganic chemistry and mechanical laws. In a teaspoon of good soil, there are literally billions of microorganisms carrying on life functions of continuous metabolism, respiration, reproduction, dying, excreting hormones and enzymes, exchanging cations and anions, responding to cosmic influences such as lunar phases and the daily and yearly solar cycles, and so on. The complexity is so great, the factors are so multifold, that no scientist can hope to completely understand what is going on, no laboratory can study all the interactions simultaneously, and no computer model can simulate them. We see beyond the physical elements into the world of etheric forces when we look into the world of the soil.
Soil organisms have the job of recycling the nutrients, regulating pH, aerating the soil, chelating minerals, and eventually creating the crumbly, good-smelling earth that can support vegetation. Furthermore, they decompose litter by reducing proteins and related substances to
Soil organisms are somewhat arbitrarily divided into soil flora and soil fauna. We must look at them more closely in order to get a concept of how alive and active the soil is. There are approximately one billion (1,000,000,000) bacteria in a gram of garden soil. A bacterial cell has the ability to produce seventeen million offspring in a day's time, and could produce, theoretically, a mass of protoplasm equal to the weight of the earth in a week's time. Aerobic bacteria need free
With the bacteria we are at the bottom of what Sir Howard calls the Wheel of Life; here is the place where destruction, decay, and dissolution of organic substances can come to a halt before they reach total mineralization, and are reintegrated instead once again into the life cycle. Whereas some ammonifiers of the bacterial population break down the proteins into amino acids and ammonia, others (nitrosomonas bacteria) start the buildup cycle by oxidizing ammonia into nitrite (
Soil bacteria work best when there is enough calcium (pH 6–8) available for cation exchange, so that calcium may pull the etheric forces into the ground. Organic matter is needed by heterotrophic populations for food. Soil bacteria are most active on warm, balmy days when the temperature ranges from 70° to 100° F. Their need for water is similar to that of higher plants, i.e., the soil is not soppy wet, but is moist to the touch. Aerobic bacteria need free oxygen, found in pore spaces of the soil, to be effective; in adverse conditions of cold, heat, or drought they will form spores and rest until favorable conditions are restored.
The half-bacteria, half-fungi-like slime molds, or actinomycetes, are almost as numerous as bacteria. These microorganisms are involved in later stages of decay, in the humification of organic residues, breaking down complex compounds such as cellulose, chitin, and phospholipids. They are drought tolerant, but need a somewhat high pH (6–7.5), being absent below pH 5. Because one species of actinomycete is involved with the potato scab, potatoes are usually not limed. Their presence is indicated by the good earth
smell of a freshly plowed field or a freshly dug garden bed. Studies (conducted by soil bacteriologist Selman Waksman) show that they produce antibiotic substances, cleaning the soil of many diseases.
Fungi (mushrooms, molds, yeasts) are very important in the decomposing of organic material and fixing NH3 and other volatiles into their tissues by ingesting the products of bacterial decomposition. By chelating minerals, the fungi are instrumental in making nutrients available to higher plants. The various mycorrhizae (fungi living in symbiosis with root-hairs) extend the rooting system of most plants up to a hundredfold, supplying growth hormones (auxins), aiding phosphorus uptake, and making moisture available. Like actinomycetes, fungi are capable of producing antibiotic substances, such as well-known penicillin and streptomycin, and thus performing the soil's neutralizing function of diseased and putrefied substances. The immense network of fine hairlike mycelia in some species gather together at times to make fruiting bodies that are recognized as mushrooms and toadstools.
When mildews, rusts, molds, and other parasitic fungi become problematic in the fall, especially in the cool, rainy weather when the overall life forces are waning, fine sprays of silicon solution made from waterglass or from horsetail (Equisetum) can be of help in the garden. In the spring, these same siliceous substances counter the dampening off
or root rot of seedlings. Gardeners speak of dampening off
when the stems of freshly sprouted seedlings die off at the soil line and fall over as a result of lesions caused by a number of fungi.
Various species of one celled, blue-green and yellow algae that have the ability to fix sunlight are also present in healthy organic soils. In temperate climates they are, however, of minor importance in comparison to the other soil microorganisms. In the tropics, especially in rice fields, blue-green algae play a more important role since they have the ability to fix
Roots should be included in the discussion of soil flora, for the rhizosphere (the zone where plants root) is not radically separate from the other life forms in the soil. The rhizosphere harbors most of these organisms. A constant exchange of substances is occurring between the roots and their surroundings. The roots and root hairs, continuously growing and dying, add food to the microorganisms. This is not an inconsiderable amount, either, for studies of rye and oat cover crops show that a single plant can grow three miles of root hairs per day, and up to five thousand miles per season.
The soil fauna, ranging from protozoa to arthropods, are less numerous than soil flora, but they are important in the subtle network of chemical exchanges, in allelochemics (the chemical interaction between species), in that they fertilize the soil upon death, and that they churn and aerate the soil. Microbes, amoeba, ciliates, flagellates, and other protozoa live in wet films surrounding the soil particles. They are held in check by antibodies produced by the soil flora.
Of the worms, the nematodes (threadworms or eelworms) are important in helping to decompose matter and mix the soil as they feed on decaying materials. A few species such as cutworms are predatory on soil fauna. Some species of eelworms are parasitic on higher plants causing root knot
or stunt
might be a problem. Root knot occurs when there is not enough organic matter in the soil and the plants are weakened because of it. Rotation of crops, companion planting of French marigolds (Tagetes), and compost applications will solve the problem better than fumigation, which is sometimes recommended but which harms other beneficial soil organisms.
Arthropods, such as mites, ants, chafers, and insect larva, and annelid worms, such as the earthworms, comprise the larger soil fauna that help aerate the soil and break down decaying vegetation. The earthworm is so important that its name should be spelled in capital letters.
Earthworms
Darwin's last work, in which, as has been facetiously suggested, he tries to make up for the mischief of his evolutionary theory, deals with the earthworm. His research, showing the overwhelming beneficial effects of this unassuming creature, countered unfounded speculation in the nineteenth century about their harmful effects. Gardeners in those days actually gathered the earthworms and night crawlers from the garden beds and fed them to the chickens to get rid of them. Darwin could show that earthworms keep the soil in motion, mixing it vertically and horizontally, creating aeration and drainage. During digestion, they humify organic matter combining it with ingested clay colloids to form worm castings that are composed of clay-humus molecules, or stable humus. Stable humus is characterized by polymerized macromolecules, whose nutrient ions are not washed or leached out by rain, while at the same time possessing an increased water holding capacity. Researchers confirm that worm castings aid the soil-building bacteria and actinomycetes. These castings, produced under normal conditions to the order of twelve tons per acre per year, contain eleven times the potassium, seven times the phosphorus, five times the nitrogen, two and a half times the magnesium, and twice the calcium of the surrounding soil. These nutrients are held in stable form, and they can be easily used by the plants as they need them.
Where does the increase in nutrients in the castings come from? Are they derived from soil and mulch and concentrated by the earthworm, or is there a secret alchemy of transmutation at work? How many sacks of fertilizer would the farmer or gardener have to haul to equal this achievement? Whereas invertebrates excrete calcium into hard exoskeletons, earthworms continuously excrete
Tending the earthworm population is as important as tending one's chickens and cows. Earthworms will starve in sterile soils. Organic matter derived from compost, manures, mulch, or tilled-in cover crops are needed to feed them. These helpful creatures appreciate an application of ground limestone or dolomite, but not quicklime that will burn them, and where clay is lacking in the soil, an application of powdered clay. The biodynamic preparation with valerian (mother-weeds
or plantings of lettuce will also further them.
How to Care for the Soil
It cannot be stressed enough how important the soil organisms are for the organic garden. Animal manures, compost, crop rotations, companion planting, and mulching aid them. They are harmed by excessive plowing, monoculture, burning of fields, and soil sterilization, which reduce their overall number drastically and diminish the number of represented species. Pesticides, herbicides, fumigants, and fungicides are even more drastic in their effects. Chemical fertilizer harms them by changing the osmotic balances and the pH of the soil. Residues of sulfates and chlorides from chemical fertilizers are harmful to them. Reduction of these organisms involves a loss of humus, the collapse of soil structure, which negatively effects nutrition, aeration, temperature, pH, and water-holding capacity. Much of modern agriculture has been concerned with these problems. Soil acidity is dealt with by increased liming, which, if overdone, makes trace minerals (Fe, Mn, B, Zn, Cu) unavailable to the plants and can drive off nitrogen. Soil compaction is handled by building bigger machines for deeper plowing, chiseling the hardpan, or even by adding vermiculite or plastic chips to aerate the soil. Various watering devices deal with lack of water-holding capacity of the soil. A vicious cycle is set in motion by these practices.
For the home garden, establishing permanent raised beds that are not compressed by walking on them or running machinery on them helps the microorganisms. An expensive rototiller is not necessary in a home garden. Neither is it necessary to spade the garden bed in such a way that the soil is turned over, for the subsoil is then brought to the top and many microorganisms die due to the shuffling of their niches. The immediate effect is that the minute corpses of demised microorganisms will create a rush of fertilizing. In the long run, such a practice will wear the humus content down. If the soil is in excellent heart, then the no-diggers approach of some British gardeners or the mulching approach of Ruth Stout is recommendable. If the soil is not in good shape or one has enough energy and elbow grease, then the double-dig method is valuable.
Permanent beds are best four feet wide, for they can be readily reached from the foot-wide paths for easy planting and hoeing. Three-foot-wide beds can be straddled for weeding or planting, but when one considers the number of paths needed, one finds that this is an inefficient use of space—with three-feet wide beds one fourth of the garden space is taken up by paths.
Simply stated, for double digging, the four-foot-wide beds are covered with compost. Then a trench, one-foot deep, is dug at one end of the bed. The soil from the spade-deep trench is saved; then, with a digging fork, the bottom of the trench is loosened for another foot depth. After that, another spade's width is moved to fill the trench, creating a new trench. This is done without turning the soil, but by simply moving it over. Again, the digging fork will loosen the bottom twelve inches. This work continues until the end of the bed, where the soil from the first trench fills up the last hole. This is hard work, but needs to be done only once or twice in the garden's history because once the soil is aerated and composted, the microorganisms and worms will keep the bed in good heart. The effects of double digging are the enhancement of the activity of the soil organisms, better root respiration, and conservation of water by interrupting the capillary movement of water from one soil molecule to another toward the surface where evaporation occurs.
In the winter, the soil is protected by growing a cover crop or by mulching. All living organisms have skins and everywhere in nature the ground is covered by leaf litter in the winter. The gardener will do well if she does likewise, for this will protect the edaphon, and earthworm activity will continue right up to the mulch layer. Earthworms and microorganisms will be fed throughout the winter. In the spring when the mulch is raked away, a fine dark layer of humified mulch, of new humus, will be found on the soil. Cover crops can be sown into cleared beds in early fall. The best combination is a grain and a legume, such as rye or oats, with Austrian pea or vetch. The legume could be inoculated with the spores of rhizobia to increase its ability to fix nitrogen into the soil. The rye or oats, chosen as companion plants, grow an immense root mass, which will fiberize the soil and add much organic matter to it. The roots continue to grow all winter long, except on the coldest of days, for the soil below the surface does not drop radically in temperature. In the spring, when the lush, tender stems and leaves are about eight inches high, the green matter can be turned into the soil to feed the earthworms and to add fiber and organic matter.
Sometimes, however, the mass of green plants covering the soil in the spring can be annoying. For larger fields that are due to be plowed it might be okay. For my garden beds I prefer green manures that are killed off by frosts in the winter and form a natural mulch cover that can easily be raked off, so one can start gardening right away. Such winterkilled green manures include oilseed radish, which also discourages nematodes; buckwheat, which is a good bee pasture; certain vetches and peas, which enrich the soil with nitrogen; and mustard, which can be used also as a vegetable. My favorite is phacelia or scorpionweed, a fast growing delicate plant with beautiful bluish purple flowers loved by honeybees. Phacelia helps loosen the soil with its mass of fine roots, improving soil quality.
By double digging, composting, cover cropping, mulching, and other ecological forms of soil husbandry, the ideal soil composed of 45 percent mineral substance, 5 percent organic matter and 50 percent pore space (25 percent of which are filled with air, and 25 percent with water) will be achieved.
Soil air is important for the respiration of the roots and microorganisms. In compacted soils this air is diminished, the carbon dioxide from the respiration cannot escape, the plants become stunted, and the soil becomes sour (acidic). Soil water is found as hygroscopic water, which is held tightly by soil particles or is chemically bound and not available to plants; as capillary water or cohesion water which fills the pore spaces and makes up the main source of water for the plants; and as gravitational or free water, which occurs in a saturated soil and is usually drained off. Good humus content will increase the water-holding capacity of the soil by several hundred percent.
In summary, we can appreciate the concept of the soil as a living organism, as the mother earth, the
Nutrients and Fertilizer
Fertilizer is no saint, but nonetheless it can work miracles.
Old gardening proverb
So much emphasis is placed these days on mineral fertilizers that it is easy to forget that there are other important aspects to gardening. It is to the materialistic dogma emerging in the mid-nineteenth century that one must look to find the origin of this fascination with the basic nutrient building blocks. The search for these substances cast shadows on other advances in farming and gardening. Already in 1809, Albrecht Thaer discovered the significance of humus care and crop rotations. It was the theory that nutrient depletion results from the harvesting of crops, as formulated by Justus von Liebig in 1850, that set the ball rolling toward an understanding of the chemical nature of plant nutrition. Liebig's Law of the Minimum showed that crops often fail because they are limited by the deficiency of a single nutrient element. One could pour on as much lime, potash, phosphorous compounds, and other nutrients as one would like, but it would help the failing crops little if the deficiency was, for example, nitrogen. The analogy is that of a barrel whose staves are broken at different lengths; the barrel will hold only as much water as the shortest stave permits. In the illustration, the limiting factor would be the nitrogen. The water level of the barrel would be representative of the crop yield.
Following Liebig's theory, the ash contents were examined for percentage and weight of nutrient minerals present; and then the computations were made per acre, or per hectare, regarding how many pounds of nutrients are removed from the soil with each harvest and from this, it was calculated how many nutrients would have to be replaced. It turned out to be a herculean task, leading to the fear that humanity would soon starve if the chemical artificials could not be found to replace these nutrients. This gave impetus to the building of chemical fertilizer plants.
At this time, Julius Sachs and Wilhelm Knop pioneered methods of water culture, or hydroponics, in order to get a better understanding of nutrient requirements and enabling them to elicit at what point the deprivation of an element produced characteristic deficiency symptoms in a plant. Their research established that plants need a cluster of elements in the lower range of the periodic table, the so-called macronutrients (C, O, H, N, P, S, K, Ca, Mg). This research orientation continued into the twentieth century. Ever more elements were found to be necessary for plant growth, some in the minutest quantity—so minute, in fact, that due to impurities in the growing media, they had escaped the notice of earlier researchers. These micronutrients, or trace minerals, include Fe, Mn, Cu, Zn, B, Mo, Na, etc. The number of necessary elements keeps increasing. Recently, for example, it has been discovered that tomatoes need minute traces of silicon. So far, at least sixty elements of the ninety-two natural elements have been found in plants, but there is no indication as to how essential they are. The picture is complicated by the fact that different plant species have different needs. The testing continues; one can imagine that eventually all the elements are going to be considered essential.
Micronutrients are difficult to handle; they cannot be easily put into fertilizer because in excessive amounts they become toxic. Micronutrient availability has become more problematic because livestock have been removed from farms and homesteads, and the manures that contain and recycle these minerals in a biologically assimilable form are not there any more for the soils. Only in isolated instances has the deliberate application of micronutrients been of great value, as in Australia where many acres were made productive by the addition of molybdenum. In most cases, there is danger of overapplication. Deep-rooting hardwood trees will pull trace elements out of the substrata, and make them available in the leaves that are shed in the fall. A compost of deciduous foliage, manures, rinsed seaweed, and fish emulsion is all that is needed to restore all the trace minerals to the garden soil. Organic gardeners do not have to worry about trace minerals at all. Most of them, as Steiner suggests in his Agricultural Course, are a free gift of the heavens, supplied by wind and rain. The hydroponic method for finding out the essentiality of trace minerals must be questioned also, for it is not representative of any garden bed or field.
The crude, materialistic outlook is more difficult to maintain as time goes on. The simple barrel analogy, the Law of the Minimum of Liebig, is not quite correct, for at times plants can substitute other elements for those that are lacking. At times there can be a partial replacement of K by Na, Ca by Sr, Mo by V, Cl, by Br, and probably also others. When there is a good supply of N in the plant, it can take up phosphates and sulfates more easily. The well-known plant physiologist Eilhard A. Mitscherlich (1909) pointed out that an increase in any one of NPK will increase growth, even if one of the macronutrients is deficient. That is, the deficiency symptoms are eased if all the other factors are in order. Aside from all these considerations, however, it is not a matter of simple test tube chemistry. Other factors play a major role: humus level, light intensity, temperatures, water availability, type of plant grown, type of fertilizer, and others. Liebig's experiments were done in exhausted soils where test tube equations work. He himself was one of the first to indicate that the soil is not the equivalent of the test tube or laboratory, and emphasized the need to build humus and use manure. Though he is hailed as the father
of chemical agriculture, in his later writings (which have been shelved), he warns against chemical fertilizers.
Much of modern agriculture consists of a complicated calculus of suitable fertilizer-combination formulas, soil tests, nutrient-requirement charts of plants, application-timing schedules, and charts on the mixability of fertilizers, distinguishing those which can be mixed and stored and those which must be used right away. Similar formula juggling occurs with pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides, which, as we have seen, follow of necessity in the footsteps of chemical fertilizers. Most gardeners are much impressed with this scientistic jargon. Impressive pseudo-cabbalistic numerology is passed between gardeners: I've been using 16:16:16,
an old neighbor told me. It sounds so scientific and smart.
Indeed, once the soil is lifeless to such a degree that it responds like a laboratory retort, one must resort to such magic. There are many possible mistakes that can be made. For example, most NPK-salts will leave the soil too acidic. Lime is copiously applied to bring up the pH, but this, in turn, makes the trace minerals (Fe, Mn, B, Cu, Zn) unavailable, and can drive N off. Chemical nitrogen fertilizers, when used excessively, cause poor root development (marble potatoes), poor flower and seed formation, groundwater contamination (as is the case in wide stretches of the Middle West, as in Decatur, IL, for example), and accumulations of nitrites in leaf greens. Sulfate of ammonia is acidic; it is water-soluble so it leaches out, kills earthworms and microorganisms, and can damage germinating seeds. Urea can damage germinating seeds and is quickly volatilized. Calcium and sodium nitrate clump together and are hard to handle. Superphosphate ties up iron as insoluble ferric phosphate; it also binds calcium and aluminum. Potassium chloride raises the salt content of the soil. Mixing fertilizers presents a problem; when, for example, lime is mixed with ammonia fertilizers, it drives off the N. Superphosphates should not be mixed with nitrates and chlorides. Antagonisms exist between ammonium and K, Ca, Cu; between nitrate and P, between P and Mn, Zn, Cu; between Ca and P, Mg, etc. The examples of complications can go on; no wonder one needs a college degree to know how to garden!
To study this is interesting, no doubt, but is not actually necessary for successful farming or gardening if the humus is maintained and the soil organisms are allowed to take over some of the workload. When the soil is made alive by the use of composts, manures, and green manures, slow-working mineral meals that can be chelated by soil flora, catch crops that keep nutrients from being leached out, mulching, and other biologically sound means, then there is no need for such chemical juggling. If mineral substances are to be used, they should work, as Steiner suggests, as they do in nature itself.
On the other hand, one cannot be dogmatic about avoiding the use of chemical fertilizer altogether. Even Sir Albert Howard recommended at times the use of suitable artificials.
One must just be very sure of what one is doing. A nitrogen fertilizer, i.e., synthetic urea, might be used in a compost of sawdust to bring the carbon-nitrogen ration closer, to speed up the rotting by supplying the bacteria with the nitrogen they need for their metabolism. Biodynamic researcher Elstrup Rasmussen writes about using limited amounts of superphosphate and potash salts in combination with manures on the sandy podsol (podzol) soils of his biodynamic farm in Denmark, in order to aid the development of legumes. Similar methods were tried in Guatemala, in combination with the Clinico Bernhorst's efforts to achieve an adequate nutritional standard for the Indian population on their poor soils. These supplementary minerals are used in combination with legumes, especially in the warmer climates, and primarily with manures in the colder climates, or, preferably a combination of both. The criterion is always the livening-up of the soils, the improvement in plant quality and animal health. Especially the artificial nitrogen fertilizers are to be avoided.
Just as one may, under special circumstances, use artificial fertilizer, depending on specific conditions, so also, are there times to be cautious about natural
or organic
fertilizers. Stockyard manure, created by unhappy, sick animals that are injected with antibiotics, chicken dung from chicken in mass holdings, and sewage sludge from big cities that has accumulations of heavy metals and medicines that people flush down their drains belong to this group. Some natural rock meals that supply P or K might contain fluorides in larger amounts.
In any case it is important to handle fertilizing intelligently, even organic fertilizing. The fertilizer should be tailored to the individual farm-garden organism and its specific needs in regard to climate, soil type, time of year, and kind of crops. The personal relationship to this farm-garden organism must prevail over abstract or generalized schemes of fertilization, be these chemical or natural. It is with correct composting that one cannot go wrong.
The Major Elements Involved in Plant Growth
Most of the bulk of the vegetation is composed of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen, which make up about 98 percent of plant substance. As important as NPK and other nutrients are, they make up relatively little of the plant. Carbon is derived from the carbon dioxide of the air; oxygen and hydrogen from the water and most, but not all, other nutrients are derived from the soil.
Jan Baptist Van Helmont (1577–1644) conducted the classical experiment of planting a five-pound willow sapling in a basin containing two hundred pounds of soil. For five years he gave it nothing but rainwater. After these five years, the tree weighed 169 pounds; and how much did the soil weigh? It was still nearly two hundred pounds, having lost only two ounces. This should make it clear that there is more to plant growth than juggling various chemicals and that there are important factors of water management and the influence of the formative forces coming from air, light, and warmth involved in the process.
As discussed elsewhere, the physical elements in the plant can be understood as the anchors for forces that are working upon the planet from various cosmic regions. We have discussed carbon as the anchor for the form-giving forces, oxygen as the anchor for the life-giving forces, nitrogen for the receptiveness of impressions, and hydrogen for the force that takes life forms out of manifestation. In the same light we can see all the rest of the elements as transmitters of forces of one kind or another.
Generally, in plants, the order of the amounts of elements present in a scale from the most prominent to the least goes from carbon to oxygen to hydrogen. At much smaller frequency are found nitrogen, then potassium, then calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, silicon, and so on to some sixty elements. This order of representation is not a passive mirror of the soils, which are composed of oxygen as the most frequent element, followed by silicon, aluminum, and so on.
In biodynamics, silicon (
Silicon is present in nearly all plants, but especially in the grains and grasses, found mainly in the sheaf and spelt. It makes straw stiffer, so that it does not lay down in a thunderstorm; it makes it more difficult for pests, aphids, and fungi to penetrate the tissues. Silicon, which makes up 48 percent of the earth's crust, is not highly reactive in its inorganic state as quartz; Steiner calls this element an aloof gentleman.
It must find its way into organic compounds in the form of silicic acid (
Whereas silicon works with the imponderables of light and warmth, calcium works more with the ponderables. Contrary to silicon, it is highly biochemically reactive and involved in soil and plant metabolism. Lime furthers soil bacteria, especially nitrogen-fixing bacteria in legumes. It aids soil structure, opening up heavy, clay soils; it neutralizes excess acid, balances potassium and sodium in plant sap, thus decreasing viscosity. It also works as a mediator of cosmic forces originating in the sub solar planets. One can lime too much, driving off the nitrogen and locking up many trace minerals. For this reason, quicklime should be avoided; ground limestone and ground dolomite is preferable. Dolomite contains magnesium, which is essential in chlorophyll development and activates a number of enzymes. All plants need magnesium and fruit trees, tomatoes, and vegetables growing in sandy or peaty soils need a lot.
If sulfur is needed, gypsum (calcium sulfate) can be applied. Usually sulfur does not pose a deficiency problem, as in industrial areas the rainfall usually brings it in plenty of it. Traces of sulfur are needed for vitamin synthesis and in some amino acids. Of course sulfur causes an acid reaction, with the sulfur turning into sulfuric acid. That is one of the reasons to be careful with putting the sulfur containing ashes of anthracite coal into the compost or on the garden beds. On the other hand, on alkaline soils, as found in the arid Southwest, this effect is welcomed. In compost, gypsum favors the fungi but decreases the cellulose-digesting bacteria.
Any mineral substances that are needed in the garden are best worked sparingly into the compost instead of dumped directly onto the soil. In the compost the microorganisms can work on them and tie them into the structure of the humus molecules.
Biodynamic farmers and gardeners are more interested in processes and forces than in the substances themselves and have developed their herbal preparations as guidance for these processes. The yarrow preparation harmonizes sulfur metabolism, the oak bark and chamomile preparations guide calcium processes. (See section Teas, Preparations, and Biotic Substances). These special preparations are also added to the composts.
The Magnificent Three: NPK
Our attention now turns to nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, the NPK of the commercial fertilizer formula. In the generalized plant, the phosphorus works mainly in the fruit and flower development; nitrogen works on leaf development, as seen in its effect on greens and spinach; and potassium works on the roots.
Nitrogen, as one of the major plant foods,
is always best applied in organic form from manures, composts, cover crops, and possibly feather-, horn- and hoof-meal, and fish scraps. Both liquid manure and solid manure of animals contain large amounts of nitrogen. Liquid manure should be fermented in vats or storage tanks that are stirred once in a while to supply the liquid with oxygen and it should be treated with nettles, B-D preparations, old compost, or compost starter to stabilize it. (See Composts and Liquid Manures.) Legumes, inoculated with the spores of nitrogen-fixing bacteria before sowing, and grown as cover crops or fallows, increase the nitrogen supply. These nitrogen-fixing bacteria can accomplish this task at ordinary pressures and temperatures, compared to the one-thousand-pound pressure and the six thousand calories needed per kilo of nitrogen fixed by industrial processes. Sewage sludge might work as a nitrogen source on individual farmsteads or in rural China, but in a mass consumer societies the sludge has too many toxic residues.
Plants that are tough, spindly, and have older leaves turning yellow and dropping off indicate a lack of nitrogen. Excessive nitrogen is shown by rank, lush, green growth of the foliage and stems, but poor root and flower/seed development. Aphids, insects, and fungi appear, as if wanting to soak up the excess nitrogen. Cows do not like fodder grown under these conditions.
Phosphorus, needed for good flower, seed, and fruit development and sugar metabolism, is best derived from powdered rock phosphate or colloidal phosphate, both of which are added to the compost where organic acids and chelates break it down into forms usable by plants. Chicken and other bird manures are good phosphorus sources. Lupine and vetch used as mulch or cover crops gather P. Bonemeal is a good source of P, and the bones chewed by one's dog or from the soup kettle can be burned in the fireplace, then pulverized and added to the compost. The biodynamic preparation 507, made from the juice of valerian flowers, helps soil and compost regulate the phosphorus metabolism.
Lack of phosphorus becomes evident when plants will not mature, show reddish-purple discoloration on leaf veins and stems, and have defective seeds. In corn, or maize, this is indicated by irregular rows of kernels. In tomatoes, the underside of the leaves turns purple.
A nice little vignette about the transfer of phosphorus in nature appeared a long time ago in a Hartford newspaper:
For the purpose of erecting a suitable monument in memory of Roger Williams, the founder of Rhode Island, people searched private burying ground for the graves of himself and his wife. Everything had passed into oblivion. The shape of the coffins could only be traced by a black line of carbonaceous matter. The rusted hinges and nails, and a round wooden knot alone remained in one grave, while a single lock of braided hair was found in the other. Near the graves stood an apple tree. This had sent down two main roots into the very presence of the coffined dead. The larger root, pushing its way to the precise spot occupied by the skull of Roger Williams, had made a turn as if passing around it, and followed the direction of the backbone to the hips. Here, it divided into two branches, sending one along each leg to the heel, when both turned upward to the toes. One of these roots formed a slight crook at the knee, which made the whole bear a striking resemblance to the human form. There were the graves, but their occupants had disappeared; the bones even had vanished. There stood the thief, the guilty apple tree, caught in the act of robbery. The spoliation was complete. The organic matter, the flesh, the bones, of Roger Williams, had passed into an apple tree. The elements had been absorbed by the roots, transmuted into woody fiber, bloomed into fragrant blossoms—and more than that had been converted into a luscious fruit, which from year to year had been gathered and eaten. How pertinent then is the question: Who ate Roger Williams?
Potash, or potassium, needed mainly for good root development, is found in greensand (glauconite), which also contains Fe, Si, Ca, P, and trace minerals; in granite dust; in wood ash, especially from hardwoods; in pig manure; in seaweed, bracken, fern, vetch, and alfalfa used as mulch or compost. The biodynamic dandelion preparation (number 504 as described on this page) helps regulate the potassium processes in compost and soil.
Lack of sufficient potash is indicated by the edges and tips of leaves looking dried and scorched and by stunted plants. Nubbin corn, fruits that are soft and ripen unevenly, carrot leaves that curl, and beetroots that taper are examples of potassium lack. Sufficient K is needed to ward off root-infecting organisms.
In concluding this chapter on mineral fertilizing, we can say the main concern is to make the soil as alive as possible. It takes compost, animal manures, and legume cover crops to do this. To this are added minerals with low solubility: basalt flour, greensand, dolomite, rock-phosphate, and other conditioners
and natural fertilizers, which can be made available by microorganisms. A careful study of one's soil and crops will indicate when, what, and where these should be applied. Each farm and garden, each crop, climate, and time of year has different requirements. For this reason a soil test from a soil test kit or the agricultural extension agent is only an indicator. In a gram of living soil there are thousands of simultaneous chemical reactions occurring in fractions of seconds. This is enough to indicate that no fixed statements can be made. The nitrogen content is lower in the spring than in the summer, and in the morning than later in the day. Phosphorous and other elements fluctuate during the course of the year in living soils. Soil tests are more important on lifeless soils than they are on soils with good structure. Simple tests can be made by growing cress seeds (Lepidium sativum) in pots containing the soils and composts to be tested and by observing germination speed, growth pattern, and general appearance of the plant on a comparative basis.
Cosmic Influences
Nothing exists nor happens in the visible sky that is not sensed in some hidden moment by the faculties of Earth and Nature.
Johannes Kepler (1571–1630) De Stella Nova
To assume that what comes to pass in the wide expanses that surround planet Earth has little or no effect on the life of the earth is the legacy of the worldview that described planets solely as dead physical matter held in orbit by purely mechanical forces and held that the stars, as infinitely distant suns, could not possibly transmit anything across the vacuum of space. This legacy is still a cornerstone in the thought of such laboratory scientists as the majority of biologists who work on biological clocks.
They claim that these clocks only appear to be affected by cosmic rhythms but try to show in laboratory test cases that they are endogenous, adaptive mechanisms intrinsic to the biochemistry of some species. The chemical base or the mechanism of the clock itself has, as yet, not been isolated. Apart from mechanical, photoenergetic influences derived from the sun and moon, our planet appears to be a hermetically sealed space capsule run by intrinsic machinery.
In contrast to this kind of thinking, the sages of all the peasant and gardening societies have never doubted the influences of forces stemming from the cosmos, which control the seasons and influence plant, animal, and man alike. These influences were not seen as mere mechanical forces, but experienced as powerful, personified beings that could be appealed to and dealt with in various ways. All these peoples employed calendar makers and specialists, who were able to interpret seasons and celestial events. In this way, the ecologically appropriate action could be taken when the signs were right. The Tukano of Brazil, for example, know that when the Pleiades dip below the horizon in the evening after sunset, it is time to plant the crops just in time for the seasonal rains. When Sirius started to appear on the horizon just before sunrise, it was time for the fertile midsummer flood of the Nile Valley marking the start of ancient Egypt's agricultural year. The European peasant rules for sowing, planting, harvesting, animal husbandry, and herb gathering, many going back to ancient Babylonian, Chaldean, and Egyptian sources, are of the same order. The Romans Pliny the Elder (23 AD) and Virgil (70–19 BC) record agricultural rules relating to astronomical phenomena. The countless sky, moon, and sun deities of tribes and nations throughout the ages, each demanding certain taboos, rituals, feasts, and proscriptions, are considered by current anthropologists not so much superstitions, but as functional ways of adapting to specific environments.
In the West, with the change of calendar and the influence of the Enlightenment, the planetary gods were shorn of their powers and dethroned. Only the most backward peasants clung stubbornly to a tradition, which degenerated into superstition and eventually lost its empirical base. What was at one time a functional belief system came in time to be relegated to the velvety parlors of official
occultists, esoteric mystics, and astrologers. It was safely relegated to those with a leaning toward mystery and the obscure, whose nerve had failed them in the brave new world.
As the crisis of modern culture deepens, more people are drawn to these topics, while at the same time, there lingers in the mind of some farmers and gardeners the feeling that there must be more to the plant and animal world than is taught in agricultural extension courses. Our current situation finds a revitalized interest in the beliefs of astrology and moon-sign planting. One need not merely believe in astrology or intuitively follow archaic tradition to benefit, because clear evidence is accumulating quickly that the earth is not a sealed mechanism, a spaceship
as Buckminster Fuller called it, running its course, but an organism that is open and responsive to the influences streaming in from the cosmos.
Basic Geocentric Astronomy
A distinction must be made at this point between astrology and astronomy. Astrology, as used by those who cast horoscopes, is a belief system that is based on the way the planetary motions and the equinox appeared about two thousand years ago. Most astrologers never look at the sky but consult ancient charts to work out their horoscopes. Astronomy is concerned with what the sun, moon, and planets are doing at this point in time in relation to the constellations of the fixed stars. Whereas academic astronomy takes a heliocentric perspective, taking the sun as the center of its model with the earth and the planets orbiting about this glowing star, we prefer here to use a geocentric perspective. After all, we live on the earth and not on the sun. Whereas a heliocentric conception might be easy to think abstractly, the geocentric is available direct to our senses. Likewise, the plants in our gardens experience the cosmic forces from a geocentric perspective as they stream from above into the atmosphere. As they spread their light-sensitive organs, the leaves, like antenna to receive the luminous vibrations emanating from above, they certainly do not experience the sun heliocentrically.
Geocentrically, we have our feet firmly planted on the ground. Our garden becomes the center of the universe. When we look up into the sky, we perceive the overawing cosmic rhythms of day and night. The sun lights up the day, rising in the east and setting in the west. In the yearly cycle the sun has its lowest stand on the shortest day, at winter solstice when it finds itself in the constellation of
The nighttime sky contains the visible stars and planets. Following the Greek geocentric tradition, we include the sun and moon among the seven visible planets. The planets (Gr. planetes = wanderers) move fairly much along the same plane as the path of the sun, the ecliptic. Their movement along this plane can be clockwise (retrograde) or counterclockwise (direct). The movement occurs against a background of fixed stars. This ribbon of fixed stars is divided into twelve regions, each 30° wide, which make up the animal circle
or zodiac. The whole heavenly vault moves in clockwise motion, so that we can talk about the rising and setting of the stars as a whole.
A picture of this would be a clock and, indeed, the clock is an abstraction of the basic movements of the sun (big hand) and the moon (little hand) through twelve hours (signs of the zodiac). The great cosmic clock includes not just two hands (sun and moon), but also Mercury and Venus that are always moving near the sun and thus appear as the morning or evening stars. The clock includes the distant planets, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn. Each of these is moving at its own speed relative to the zodiac. Sometimes the planets Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn reverse their movement and move backwards (in retrograde). It takes the sun a year to go through the zodiac and return to the spring point at equinox, which is in
This by no means exhausts the movements that occur in the visible sky. The moon has other rhythms than the sidereal or sideric rhythm, which marks the 27.32166-day cyclical (twenty-seven days, seven hours, forty-three minutes) journey to the same place (sign) in the zodiac. Most obvious to the sky-watcher are the four lunar phases or quarters of the moon, the synodic month, alternating between conjunctions with the sun (new moon) and opposition to the sun (full moon). The first quarter, the new moon, or waxing crescent moon, gives way to the second quarter, or gibbous waxing moon, which is followed by the third quarter or waning gibbous moon and, finally, by the fourth quarter, or waning crescent moon. This cycle lasts about 29.531 days (twenty-nine days, twelve hours, forty-four minutes). When looking at the moon, one can tell if it is waxing or waning in the following way: if the curvature looks like that of the right hand, it is a waxing moon and if it looks like the left hand, it is a waning moon.
Another lunar cycle is the anomalistic month, where the moon alternates between perigee, closest to the earth, and apogee, farthest from the earth. The elliptical orbit around the earth involving a distance variation of 40,000 km or 16,000 miles causes this cycle of 27.555 days.
The draconic or nodular month, or lunar nodes, caused by the moon's wobbling about 5° above and below the sun's path (ecliptic), is a cycle of 27.555 days. When the moon dips below the ecliptic one speaks of the moon's descending node, or dragon's tail. When the moon rises above the sun's path, one has the ascending node, or dragon's head. It is at these nodes that a sun or a moon eclipse is possible.
A fifth lunar rhythm is the tropical month, lasting about 27.32158 days. Just as the sun in its yearly cycle has a northern and a southern tropic, its lowest and its highest point on the horizon, so, also, does the moon, except that it does not take a year but only 27 days. In almanacs this is referred to as the moon's descension and ascension. These points usually occur in the sign of Scorpio-Sagittarius and Taurus-Gemini.
As one can see, these varying lunar periodicities make for a complicated astronomy. The rhythms are close, but not synchronized. Just for two rhythms to get back in step, the synodic and the sidereal moon, for example, takes eighteen years and seven and one-half months. The rhythms that we reckoned for the moon can be described for the other planets also. For example, one of the Mayan calendars was based on the phases of Venus.
The complexity of these rhythms
For scientists, research on lunar and planetary effects becomes a hot iron, since the factors are innumerable and no experiment is exactly repeatable. One cannot say to the moon: Wait a minute, could you repeat this?
or say to the planets: You are insignificant variables; we will not consider you in this experiment.
It is safer for such a scientist to infer an endogenous system of biological clocks and intrinsic mechanisms to explain plant and animal life, while considering the whole cosmos an irrelevant variable!
However, evidence points in other directions: to those that indicate cosmic influences. The farmer and the gardener can be assured that when he plants his crops in the right seasons and in the right signs and phases, that there is something to it.
Dimensions of Time and Space
All of life is rhythm and pulse. Death is the cessation of rhythm. The rhythms of living plant and animal organisms are in synchronicity with, or permutations of, cosmic rhythms. These living pulsations, be they circadian, monthly, annual, four-year, eight-year, nine-year, or other cycles, all have some cosmic counterpart. In plants and in lower animals these rhythms are in direct phase with the cosmic phenomena, whereas in the higher animals these rhythms are obscured by the fact that internalized rhythms and impulses are provided by the inner cosmos of the inner organs and endocrine system.
The rhythms of life (growth, petal movement, assimilation, etc.) are expressed as manifestations and de-manifestations in material space. Organic forms, but also some inorganic forms such as crystals, are images of cosmic form giving forces sculpted into matter. Flowers and leaf nodes show spiral relations that are mathematically equivalent to the ratios of the movement of planets as seen from a geocentric point of view. Organic forms, such as spirals, vortices, radial symmetry, bilateral symmetry, and the combinations and allometric permutations thereof, are archetypal, hinting at sympathy with planetary orbits, galactic whorls, lunar phases, and other cosmic occurrences.
Given these analogies of rhythm (time) and form (space configurations), one can postulate a connection of some sort between organic life and cosmic influences. The connection could be one of causality, in which the cosmic force causes the organism's response. It is easy to imagine how organisms, in their life functions, can vibrate with the wide range of electromagnetic energy that constantly bombards this planet from outer space. Such energy reaches from the extremely short gamma and X-rays, through the ultraviolet, the visible spectrum, the infrared to the long radio waves. We see the effect of lunar gravity on water, causing the tidal behavior of seashore fauna; and the plants with their green tissue are photo-receptive like our retinas, monitoring the instreaming visible light from the cosmos.
On the other hand, the relation between the cosmic phenomena and the terrestrial counterpart might not be one of causality, but might be one of synchronicity, both of them the expression of a deeper-lying archetypal factor. Time and space have been separated analytically in Western thought. In some other cultures, as for example as among the Hopis, such distinctions are not made. For them, each time has its space and each space has its own time. Though time and space are principally connected manifestations, we will treat them separately in our discussion of cosmic influences.
Time and Cosmic Rhythms
The most common and simplest rhythm is the daily (circadian, after Franz Halberg, 1960) movement of the sun (solar day) or the revolution of the heavenly vault (sidereal day). This rhythm profoundly affects all life, including one-celled organisms. It includes the daily opening and closing of flower petals, and the movement of leaves in some plants, such as the bean, into nightly vertical sleep positions and horizontal day positions. These daily rhythms are so accurate that, in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, flower clocks were planted in gardens where it was possible to tell time by the opening and closing of the petals.
Günther Wachsmuth describes the daily bipolar rhythm in plants. A period of concentration around 3:00 a.m., characterized by maximum cell division, auxin (plant hormone) production, starch accumulation in the roots below and a minimum of sap excretion, gives way in the morning to the opening of leaves into the daytime position with increases in assimilation, respiration, secretion and sap flow. In the afternoon at 3:00 p.m., there is maximum glucose production and cell elongation, which gives way in the evening to starch accumulation in the roots after the plants assume sleeping positions.
A ten-year study by Frank A. Brown Jr. of Northwestern University shows a daily metabolic cycle in potatoes. Brown shows that there is peak metabolic activity in potatoes at sunrise, at noon, and in the evening. This cycle follows yearly fluctuations: while in January the noon peak is the greatest, at mid-year it is less significant, and in the fall, the morning peak is the greatest. The metabolic pattern varies systematically with the celestial longitude of the earth as it makes its annual journey around the sun.
He concludes that geomagnetic and electromagnetic forces seem to be at work, which are, of course, affected by the planets. Other studies show time awareness in cockroaches, which scavenge at night, and in fruit flies, which hatch only in the early morning hours when moisture (dew) exists. Even human beings show circadian rhythms, which are upset when a jet trip crosses time zones.
Lunar rhythms, which work mainly through water, are effective in all organisms. Most organisms are composed mainly of water, and all organisms go through an amorphous zygote stage, in which these forces can be especially influential. Instruments have been developed that are so sensitive that they can measure lunar tides in a teacup. Researchers find that it is harder to sterilize water during the full moon. Pliny the Elder writes in his Natural History that it is best to sell fruits picked before the full moon because they will be plumb full of water, but for one's own use, it is wise to pick around the new moon period for they will keep better. He states that it is best to castrate animals or prune trees during the new moon to avoid excessive bleeding. Modern scientists find this to be true also.
Frank Brown, in a study on fiddler crabs, finds that besides the diurnal cycle of color change, a lunar rhythm of 12.4 hours, timed exactly to the lunar tides. Oysters, which open their shells at high tide and close them at low tide, when transported from the East Coast to Evanston, Illinois, changed their rhythms to what the tides would be there, if the seashore were in Illinois.
Lunar rhythms are especially evident in the lower animals, particularly in the reproductive cycle. The timing of these animals is sometimes awesome. The grunion, or smelt, of California, ride the last flood tide wave onto shore to deposit eggs and sperm in the sand and ride the first ebb tide wave back out into the sea. Two weeks later, the next tide that is equally high, is the exact moment when, at the crest of the tide, the larvae hatch to be swept out into the sea. Similarly dramatically, the female palolo worms living in the coral reefs of the South Pacific rise to the ocean surface at an exact time at dawn when the moon reaches its last quarter in November, where their egg-laden tails break off and float. Immediately all the males rise to the surface where their sperm-containing hindquarters also break off.
In relation to fertility, Eugene Jonas of the Czech Republic found that in the human female the ability to conceive coincides with the lunar phase when she was born. From this insight, a non-chemical birth control method was developed, which is claimed to be 98 percent effective. Weather, rainfall cycles, barometric pressure, changes in the magnetic field, and other phenomena have been correlated with the moon. Police officers, bartenders, and caretakers of mental patients also tell of the effects of the moon on the human psyche.
Planets are the source of powerful radio waves, and each planet leaves in its wake a tail of electromagnetic disturbances. We can easily assume that the planets, other than the moon and sun, have an effect on the earth. One such effect is the eleven-year sunspot cycle first observed by Sir William Herschel (1801). Sunspots occur when planets are in conjunction or opposition to the sun, that is, when they form one gravitational arc that has an uneven pull on the corona of the sun. The effects include more icebergs afloat off of Iceland, good vintage years for Bordeaux, drought patterns in India, the shift of flowering dates of some plants, earthquakes, and others. There are thirty-five and eighty-five-year rhythms superimposed on this eleven-year cycle. An eight-year precipitation cycle has been related to Venus. In his laboratory at Dornach, Switzerland (1971), George Unger, using the drop-method investigation of fluids developed to indicate water quality, showed the effects of the constellations on water. Measured quantities of fluids to be tested are dropped into glycerin, creating characteristic drop patterns. The glycerin is so sensitive that the characteristic drop patterns are disturbed slightly when conjunctions and oppositions occur.
Joachim Schulz made an interesting observation in his investigations of beechnut harvests. Beech trees bear heavily about every six to eight years, according to records kept since 1799. The irregular quantity of the harvests is not dependent only on the climate and weather, since the whole species in various locations bears well during good years despite climate variations. This seemed to be random behavior. In the years 1948 to 1951, Schulz was able to correlate the harvest patterns with Jupiter, Mars, and Saturn positions in various constellations. The trees bear fruit when these three planets are in a trigonal position (120°) to each other, as seen from the Earth perspective. He set up probable harvest predictions on this basis up to the year 1985. Gerhard Wolber and Susanne Vetter reinvestigated this in 1971 and found the predictions verified. Other investigations on planetary influences by Lilli and Eugene Kolisko show that the crystallization of certain salts in the laboratory is affected by the positions of the planets.
The growth rhythms of the various plant families correspond to the sidereal rhythms of the planets. The rapidly growing herbaceous annuals are linked with the fast moving sub-solar, or nearer, planets. This places most monocots under the influence of the moon and Mercury, and the dicot herbs with Venus and the sun. Biennials and shrubs are related to the two-year rhythm of Mars, perennial herbs and hardwoods to the twelve-year cycle of Jupiter, and most of the conifers to the long-enduring cycle of Saturn.
The preceding might seem to be somewhat simplistic, analogical thinking, but, in keeping with the goetheanistic approach, we will make note of such analogies of simultaneously appearing phenomena before jumping to conclusions. Here we are perhaps not dealing with the law of causality, but with the law of synchronicity or significant coincidence. In the next section on plant forms, other factors will become evident, which show that the correlations indicated are perhaps not quite as arbitrary as they at first appear. We are only touching on the subject of rhythms and their correlation with cosmic phenomena here. There are undoubtedly other rhythms, ranging from cycles of glaciation (250,000 years) to very short-term rhythms occurring within organs or cells, which can be correlated in frequency curves with various short wave patterns derived from the cosmos.
It is the studying and understanding of such rhythms in their relation to the etheric formative forces that underlies the rhythmic preparation of homeopathic medicines, and of the stirring of liquid manures and biodynamic preparations.
Forms and Shapes
All life is rhythm (energy) and matter is temporarily frozen energy. The archetypal patterns of organisms indicate rhythmic movements that have temporarily taken on physical form and substance. Formative forces are indicated by crystal formations in frost flowers, snow flakes, tension lines in cooling liquids, hexagonal honeycombs, and others which Steiner indicated as vector lines originating in the region of the earth-distant planets. Hard as it may be to prove by conventional means, it is certainly a probability that can be visualized by means of projective geometry. These straight hard linear forces, originating in outer space and working through the earth into crystal formation, are akin to the earth
etheric forces. The formative forces of water
and air
express themselves in flow patterns, spirals, and vortices. They are seen in whirling galaxies, cloud formations as photographed from space satellites, wind and ocean currents, whirlpools, snail shells, the hair whorl on the back of the head (cowlick), the calyx of flowers such as the morning glory, the spiral placement of leaf and bud around the stem, seed placement as in sunflowers, all the way to the double-helix spiral of the minute DNA molecule.
Water and air etheric forces reveal themselves in concentric rings found from the rings of Saturn, to tree rings, to water disturbed by a thrown pebble, and equally archetypal are reflections and bipolarities found in higher organisms and in magnetic fields. Another form of primal energy is seen in the raying, outpouring energy as that of the raying sun, the primitive radiolarians and other and other planktons, the radial symmetry of horsetails (Equisetum) and other primitive plants. Such archetypal forms and patterns are found in the whole range of nature, from the telescopic to the microscopic universes.
Leaf arrangements (phyllotaxis) occur in opposites (one-half around the stem to the next leaf), in thirds (one third around the stem to the next leaf), or in spirals of two-fifths, as in blackberries where one has to go twice around the stem to arrive at the fifth leaf directly above the first one. Other species have ratios of 3/8, 5/13, 8/21, 13/34 and so on.
Similarly, the flower petal arrangement and seed placement patterns of such plants as the composites (like the flower of the sunflower) reveal spirals that intersect clockwise and counter-clockwise, according to the above-mentioned ratios. These ratios are not random but form a mathematical progression that was discovered by the Renaissance mathematician Leonardo da Pisa, also know as Fibonacci, after whom this Fibonacci sequence is named. A further point of interest is that the ratio between any two numbers in the series (after the third) approaches that of the Golden Ratio, or Golden Section (1:618).24 The existence of the Fibonacci sequence in the arrangement of leaf and flower spirals indicates well enough how God ever geometrizes
(Plato), but the astronomer Joachim Schulz has pointed out that this sequence is also found in the movement patterns of the visible planets as perceived geocentrically.
The force of the sun pulls the vegetation upward (heliotropism), giving it the vertical tendency. Just as the planets move in and out of conjunction with the sun and cross the ecliptic above and below, so do the buds, leaves, and flowers move about the vertical stem of the plant, mirroring the mathematical relationships that hold sway in planetary movement. Schulz tries to show the opposition and twofold symmetry in plants relates to the moon, which alternates from full moon to new moon. The path of Mercury reveals three loops (retrogressions) and six yearly conjunctions with the sun, three above and three below the ecliptic. Moon and Mercury symmetries are found permeating the world of the monocots, the lilies and grasses.
Venus forms five loops (retrogressions) below the ecliptic in eight years, dividing its path into five parts; much like the bud and leaf placement of the five-sided blackberry stem, going around twice to get to the same place, creating the next ratio of the Fibonacci series, 2:5. A picture of the geocentric perspective of Venus's path looks like the core of an apple and characterizes the geometry of such plants as the rose family (
A methodologically more sophisticated work, building upon Schulz, is a book by Ernst M. Kranich, who analyzes a number of plants in morphological detail and relates their growth processes to similar structural relationships found in the movement of planets. He relates the rooting process to the moon and the vertical growth to the sun. The leaves and flower petals, as they diverge from the vertical stem tendency, are an image of the movement of Mercury and Venus bilaterally to the sun, as experienced from a geocentric position. Anther and pollen formation relate to Mars, fruit formation to Jupiter, and seed formation to Saturn. He details the studies with careful botanical observations and flower diagrams.
It is not possible to go further into correlations between morphology, phyllotaxis, and geometry of plants within the limits of this exposition. These studies do establish the possibility of connections and partially vindicate some of the older planetary designations of plants, such as those of Culpeper and Renaissance scholars.
All plant species, from primitive algae to complex fruit trees, have characteristic patterns. A whole gestalt dominates each species, giving it its overall characteristic form. When, for example, leader branches are removed on trees, another branch takes over to maintain the characteristic gestalt. Scientists have succeeded in culturing the entire plant out of one cell; regardless of whether that cell has been taken from the root or from the leaves, it eventually took on the form characteristic of the species it belonged to. This indicates that there is a blueprint.
It is hypothesized that this blueprint is found in the cell as the DNA code of the chromosomes. We advance the contention that the DNA provides the physical substrata upon which the formative forces, deriving from etheric space, from the periphery of the earth, can find expression. Or as H. Poppelbaum expresses it:
The
blueprintof an organism does not result from the chemistry of the various components of protein, etc.; it images an extra-spatial order that gives form and position to the organs and also determines the earthly-cosmic layout of the organism as a whole. The enzymes, hormones, etc. that move about in the organisms are not shaping causes; rather, they are mere indicators of the relationships in the form-field at a particular spot. The total structure of the living being proceeds from the super-spatial form that is developed in etheric space.
Loss of the order-producing, rhythmic impulses of the formative forces leads to death. Interference with the flow of these forces produces a loss in geometry, or harmony, as in the so-called callus growths, plant tumors, and destruction by means of insects and disease.
George Adams, in an exposition of projective geometry, Physical and Etheric Spaces, talks about manifold streams and influences flowing together from the cosmos. At the place where they interpenetrate, there arises by their interplay (it is a qualitative interplay, but its effect is at the same time spatial) the etheric organ as a whole. These currents from the universe are the cosmic parts, the etheric member of the organ. The organ as a whole is therefore smaller than its parts. This is an absolutely real process, perceptible to supersensible consciousness …
We can clarify this by looking at a seed. The forces working on the seed from the cosmic periphery are as much a part of the plant as the visible members of the plant. In its manifestation within space and time, the plant is diminutive, whereas etherically the plant is greatly, though not visibly, expanded.
Practical Application
The illustration suggests that the plant is a projection of cosmic forces focused by the seed point, in analogy to the sunlit space that is focused by the lens of the eye to provide a retinal image as a projection. Steiner, and later Grohmann, conceive of the green vegetation as the eyes of the earth organism, open in the summer and shut in the winter.
Having attempted to establish the possibility of cosmic influences upon plant life, it now becomes a question of practical concern about how to use these forces. If they are always present, how can one do anything about them? The gardener can amplify or tone down these forces in his or her work. He or she can create relationships and dis-relationships of plants as they are governed by the Revolutionibus of the whole ordinance of the sun with the primum mobile, the secundus mobilus, the stars that we see and the ethereal world that we cannot see.
How can this be done? It is done by allowing the plants to become receptive to the cosmic rhythms through providing living compost and biodynamic preparations, and, just as important, through sowing one's seeds, working the soil, and planting the seedlings at the right times. We do the latter automatically with the solar cycle, which is the most obvious. The lunar cycles are less obvious, but just as important.
In order to plant by cosmic rhythms correctly, one must learn to identify the astral phenomena, such as the sign in which the sun, moon, and the other planets find themselves at the time, as well as the phases of the moon, the conjunctions and oppositions. A good astronomical calendar that indicates all the necessary data correctly and a good book on the constellations or a movable start chart will be of help in learning. Secondly, it is important to keep note of the sun's position, and the sign, phase, node, ascension and declension, and the apogee and perigee of the moon in one's garden diary day by day. In this way, a good scientific record can be kept indicating correlations over a number of years between nature phenomena (the appearance of certain bugs, the first and last frost dates, rain periods, etc.) and celestial phenomena. In the same entry, the garden work that is done each particular day should be noted. Such a record, if kept up diligently over a few decades, will be a valuable aid in understanding a number of cycles and patterns that have bearing on the farm and garden.
The solar cycle: Most of us have an idea when to plant in the spring and to harvest in the fall, although I had students from California who wanted to plant watermelons and other warm weather crops in November. One has to plant early enough in order to get a crop. Cold weather plants can be planted before the frost-free date, whereas warm-weather-loving plants must be planted after the frost-free date. (See section The Garden Calendar.) For biennial plants, which include many of our vegetables, such as beets, cabbages, kale, Brussels sprouts, carrots, celery, etc., the vegetative growth takes place during the first year, and a cold period (vernalization) must be passed through for the plant to bloom and make seed the following year. This is important for gardeners who want to make their own seed.
Photoperiodism, or the ability of plants to perceive and respond to differences in length of day and night, is related to solar cycles. Long-day plants, such as most garden plants (beets, lettuce, poppies, carrots, radishes, spinach, and others) flower when the days get longer and start to exceed twelve hours. These are plants that flower into the summer. This explains why radish and spinach go to seed in the summer. Short-day plants, originating mostly in the more southerly latitudes, need shorter days for flowering and will start to flower in late summer and fall as the sun's arc narrows; they include tobacco, corn, hemp, and cosmos. Day-neutral plants, such as shepherd's purse, chickweed, tomato, and sunflower, do not have any special preferences.
Lunar cycles: Lunar cycles are very handy in our attempt to create relationships and dis-relationships
with the Revolutionibus. The moon works through the medium of water. Since most organisms consist of mainly water, it is little wonder that there is a noticeable effect. The most important lunar rhythm to work with is that of the moon phases (synodic or synodial moon). Anyone who has sprouted alfalfa seeds for salad, or closely watched the garden by comparing a new moon to a full moon, notices accelerated growth during the full moon period, especially if it has rained. It is best to sow or plant in the second quarter, or a few days before the full moon. Root crops can be planted in the third quarter. The fourth quarter is a rest period in the cycle during which weeding and pruning can be done. The first quarter is characterized by slow but steady growth.
Lilli Kolisko carried out fifteen years of experiments with wheat, barley, and oats in order to study the effect of the moon. A large number of seeds were sown out during different lunar phases with other variables, such as soil type, water, and fertilizer, held constant. Exact measurements carried out on weight, length of roots, leaves, and internodes produced curves that showed maximum growth always occurring in the waxing second quarter moon. Another series of tests showed that germination is best two days before the full moon. Comparisons made between plants (carrots, tomatoes, peas) planted two days before the full moon, with controls planted two days before the new moon, showed that full moon sowings had significantly larger harvests and grew better than the controls. Plants sown in the advantageous phase surpassed those plants sown in the new moon, even when the latter were put into the ground two weeks earlier. Vegetables sown around the full moon were juicier, whereas those sown at the new moon periods were found to be drier and woodier.
Some plants are exceptions to the rule; potatoes and legumes can be planted during the new moon phase.
The lunar phases are not the only consideration for planting by the moon. The zodiac sign in which the moon finds itself (the sidereal moon) is also important. Older, quaint traditions give each sign of the zodiac a specific value regarding barrenness, fertility, moisture or dryness, and masculine or feminine traits.33 Interesting as these assignments may be, they seem to have little empirical substantiality but belong, rather, to the way things were categorized in the medieval worldview.
Maria Thun, continuing investigations carried out in Europe by Franz Rulni and other anthroposophic researchers on the effects of the sidereal position of the moon on plants, found that differences occurred in test plots of radishes despite the weather, crop rotation, fertilizer, seed, lunar phases, and planetary conjunctions. Taking a hint from Günther Wachsmuth about the formative forces and their relation to the zodiac, Maria Thun sowed equal amounts of radish seed daily into little experimental plots, while noting the sign in which the moon was to be found. After about four years, the typology became clear. Radishes sown in the earth
signs showed good root development, those sown in the water
signs showed abundant leaf development, those sown in air
and fire
signs tended to bolt and seed well. The typologies were amplified by always sowing earth sign
radishes from seeds obtained from previous generations of earth sign radishes, and taking seeds from water sign radishes to sow on water sign days, etc. Even the working on the beds, the hoeing, weeding, and harvesting was done on the respective sign days. Other experiments with potatoes, cereals, and fodders were carried out along with the radish experiments for nearly three decades. Professor von Boguslawski, of the University of Giessen, Germany, investigated the claims of Maria Thun and found them scientifically sound; he sent his student Ulf Abele to do a PhD dissertation on the subject. As a result of this research, the old rules of astrological planting seemed to be vindicated. Thun also found that the typology comes out clearer and more typical on organically fertilized soil.
Other researchers, including master gardener Manfred Stauffer, with whom I worked in Village Aigues-Vertes (Geneva), were not so successful with planting by the zodiac signs; the results were by no means as unequivocal. Perhaps they were too skeptical to begin with, or it was the plant spirits themselves, which did Maria Thun a favor in growing the way she expected them to grow. As gardeners know, there is always an unknown factor, related to the mythical green thumb
: for some people, it seems, that plants grow well and for others they do not. Cheyenne medicine man Bill Tallbull told me that the plant spirits could read the thoughts of humans; sometimes plants adopt a favorite human, giving him inspirations or appearing in her dreams. Shamans of other tribes in close nature contact confirm this. Anthropological field reports are full of such stories. We can surmise—setting conventional scientific viewpoint for the moment aside—that perhaps it was the spirit, or deva, of the radishes, whose seeds Maria Thun sowed in her plots each day for over thirty years, which granted her the results she wished for.
Be it as it may, many biodynamic gardeners and farmers swear by Maria Thun's planting calendar. They are convinced that one aids root crops when they are sown in Taurus, Virgo, and Capricorn; flowers are best planted in the air signs of Gemini, Libra, and Aquarius; leaf crops are aided by the water signs of Pisces, Scorpio, and Cancer; and fruits do best in the fire signs of Aries, Sagittarius, and Leo.
As to the tropical month, when the moon travels up into the high signs (Taurus/Gemini) and back down to the low signs (Scorpio/Sagittarius), tradition has it that there is an increase in vitality when the moon is in ascension, which is good for grafting because the juices flow better in stem and leaves. When the moon is in descension, it is good for root development, sowing root crops, for transplanting, and for hedge trimming. In much of Europe, especially among the Swiss peasants, this tropical moon is carefully observed.
Apogee (Ag), the moon at its greatest distance from Earth, tends to further bolting in plants sown on these days. This would be somewhat good for seed crops. Potatoes like to be planted at apogee. Plants planted in perigee (Pg), when the moon is closest to Earth, tend to be more subject to pests and mildew. In general, it is a good practice not to do major planting or sowings on either Ag or Pg. The same can be said of the lunar nodes, when the moon crosses the ecliptic. It is best not to do any major gardening work on these days.
As for the planetary influences, Maria Thun and others have found evidence that insects are affected in their habits by certain conjunctions and planetary positions in the zodiac. This has been little researched otherwise. Rudolf Steiner mentions of burning insects and pests in certain planetary constellations in his Agricultural Course.
In conclusion it may be said that planting at the right phase and sign can be one of the many factors that lead to successful gardening. The good soil must be there as a basis, for it is the soil with its teeming life that is mainly receptive to these influences. If all the other factors are handled well—crop rotation, companion planting, good soil husbandry, composting, and good watering practices—then the planting by the signs will be an extra plus. By itself astronomical gardening does not guarantee a great garden; by the same token, if a good planting day has to be missed because of weather or due to other commitments, it will not be, in itself, catastrophic.
Atmospheric Factors
Sunshine is delicious, rain is refreshing, wind braces us up, snow is exhilarating; there is really no such thing as bad weather, only different kinds of good weather.
John Ruskin
Moderating, transferring, and mediating between the great polarity of the terrestrial factors and the cosmic factors are the forces of wind and water, the climate, weather, sunshine, and rain that make up the atmospheric factors. Included are the following:
- Moisture, involving humidity, rain, hail, sleet, snow blankets, dew, and fog
- Wind, involving strength, direction, seasonal variation, and local breezes
- Air pressure, involving barometric changes
- Light climate, involving cloud covers, angle of sunlight, length of days, and shadows cast by buildings, trees, and hills
- Temperature, involving temperature averages, extremes of day and night, extremes of seasons, and frosts and chills
All of these factors are intimately involved with how the garden grows. The gardener must be very aware of these factors, for they will determine to a large extent when to plant and harvest, when to water or cultivate, when there is danger of aphid or mildew infection, and what the quantity and quality of the produce will be like. Entries should be made into the garden diary for each of these factors, providing a valuable record after a number of years that gives predictability for the local situation. Simple instruments can be used to aid in the observations, such as a thermometer for temperature measurements in sunny and shady locations; a weather vane for showing the wind direction; a hygrometer to measure humidity; a simple anemometer, which is a whirligig that indicates the speed of the wind; a barometer to give information on the air pressure, the highs and lows; and a rain gauge, which shows the amount of precipitation. The position of the sun in the zodiac, the place on the horizon where it rises and sets each day, a measure of the angles of the sun's rays, and a charting of the procession of shadows across the garden and other observations belong in the diary next to entries concerning composting, cultivating, planting, fertilizing, and rotations.
Nature observations, hints by old-timers, and local folk sayings provide a rich storehouse of information. Farmers tell that animals in the barn are nervous and cows hold back on their milk when there are impending changes of weather, and that aches and pains in the joints and old wounds mean the same thing. All animals, because of their more immediate contact with nature, give indications regarding atmospheric conditions, if one can read them. Especially insects, which are still very closely tied into the macrocosmic processes, reflect the weather and even predict it. When gnats and mosquitoes dance high in the air, the weather will stay fair, but when they fly low and bite, the weather will change. Bees are nervous when the weather changes; they are more likely to sting when it is humid and windy; they strip the pollen off their legs to fly home faster when there is a storm on the horizon. Yearly forecasts can be made by observing bee larvae; when the brood is large there will be a sunny year, good for fruits and flowers; when there are few larvae, the year will be rainy and cool. Ants are interesting to watch in similar respects. Wooly bear caterpillars, which are often seen crossing roads in the fall, indicate the kind of winter that will follow. If the brown band around the caterpillar is broad, the winter will be mild; if it is narrow, the winter will be harsh. Crickets are regular thermometers; they chirp faster when it is warmer and proportionately slower the cooler it gets. Some observant old-timers can actually tell the degrees Fahrenheit by counting the chirps in a certain way. Similarly, spiders, besides being useful bug catchers, are good weather forecasters. When the little spiders hatch in the spring, it is a sure sign that warm weather is coming; when spiders weave fine nets, there will be a spell of good weather; when they build nests, it is a sign of coming cold; and when they weave thick strands, it will be cloudy or rainy.
Mindful observation of the plant world gives good hints to the gardener regarding seasons and weather. Each step of the season is marked by its particular phenomenon in the flowering world. In southern Oregon, it is a sure sign of spring when the hazelnut blooms, the miner's lettuce, slender toothwort, plums, and others start flowering. Shooting stars, ragged starflowers, camas, grass widows, and others follow this early flowering. Successive flowering continues until midsummer is graced by the sun-like St. John's wort to be followed in the fall by asters, chicories, and others. Watching the natural flowering patterns is a surer way of knowing at which point the season stands than relying on abstract numerical dates. For predictions of the coming year, the greening oak and ash are compared in early spring. If the oak greens before the ash, the summer will be wet; if the ash greens before the oak, the summer will be dry.
Other natural phenomena can be helpful, too. In the Grants Pass area of Oregon, for example, the weather starts to get milder in February, making it possible to put out peas and spinach, but the last frost can be as late as the beginning of June. Newcomers to the area are usually fooled into putting their summer gardens out way too soon, only to find that a succession of unexpected frosts kills them off. The seasoned gardeners know that only when the mountaintops are free of snow is it safe to put out corn and tomatoes. A planting rule going back to the Iroquois in the Midwest that says not to plant corn until the leaves of the white oak are about the size of a squirrel's ears. Such lore holds only conditionally true for other regions. For each local area, the gardener should observe cloud formations, the intensity of colors at sunrise and sunset, wind directions, rising and descending fog, and other natural phenomena—at best over a span of a number of years.
Magical Weather Control
Since weather is an important factor to all people, especially agricultural and horticultural societies, propitiation of weather deities and spirits, and magical weather control, was (and is) universally practiced. In Western culture, notwithstanding, there is a long tradition of lore regarding weather. Germanic tribes propitiated Thunar (Thor) to ward off giant elemental beings of frost and ice with his thunderbolt, and to send fertile rain for the boor's swidden. Woden (Odin), the god associated with winds and storms, was seen with his wild spirit warriors sweeping through the winter storms on his gray steed. Zeus was the thunderer, cloud gatherer, and rainmaker for the Greeks. Iris brought the rainbow and Poseidon brought sea storms. Zephir brought moist, mild west wind; Boreas the cold north wind; Notos the hot desiccating south wind; and Apelides the cool east wind. Helios was the sun god and Apollo the god of light. In North America the winds are different: for the Ojibwa, Mudjekeewis, the grizzly bear, is the guardian of the west, bringing dry air; Shawnodese, the trickster coyote, brings the warm, rain bearing winds from the south; Wabun, the wise eagle and guardian of the east, brings the eastern rains; and Waboose, the spirit of the buffalo, brings the icy arctic winds from the north. These and other gods, lesser spirits, and elementals were accountable for the changing phenomena in the macrocosm, as well as the changing moods and passions within the microcosm. Because of this macrocosmic-microcosmic kinship, the human being, in the form of a priest, sorcerer, or magician, could approach the spirits and deities that operated behind the phenomena. He or she could talk to them, beseech them as a priest or priestess, and pray for rain, the cessation of rain, for warm weather, or the cessation of a heat wave; or work as a theurgist, as a magician, and compel the weather deities to act according to his or her wishes. He or she could work for the welfare of the suffering community or, like Shakespeare's witches in Macbeth, create harmful winds and storms. We still speak of a spell of weather, a cold spell, a rain spell, or a spell of sunshine. Spells were originally woven by chanting, singing magic songs, making smoke with special herbs, or by casting runes, or bones and sticks engraved with sacred symbols.
Ethnographic research shows that public rainmakers are universal. As the anthropologist James Frazer has amply documented, making rain by the sympathetic
magic of sprinkling water to imitate clouds, drumming to imitate thunder, dressing in dark colors to look like rain-laden clouds, pouring water into a fire, and other practices, while the community sings and dances for rain. Men cut their arms or bleed animals for sacrifice and in imitation of the rain. Often weather rituals are carried out in stark nakedness, or in garments of foliage. If these rituals are of no avail, the recourse is often taken by threatening or abusing the saints or gods associated with weather control. To stop rain, its elemental opposite, fire, is used. Torches are thrown in the air or at the clouds. Wind is controlled by the imitative magic or blowing, or summoned by the clapping of hands. English sailors tied three knots into their handkerchiefs and hoped to release the wind by untying the knots. Christian hymnals contain prayers and songs beseeching God to send rain and protect from ill weather.
A modern scientist cannot but help consider these practices superstition born out of ignorance, as attempts at control based on faulty pre-scientific premises (James Frazer), or as rituals that function psychologically to relieve anxiety (Bronislaw Malinowski). For the scientist who counts as real only the objective world of empirical sensory data and logical thinking, this must be the right conclusion: weather is something we can't do anything about. Maybe scientific weather control projects, such as HAARP, could possibly influence the weather, but certainly not wishful thinking and magic rituals.
If, on the other hand, one considers moods and states of mind as real and effective as physical things, then one can appreciate the possibility of sympathy or resonance between people's hopes, desires, and frame of mind and the external state of nature. Perhaps what were once effective means of channeling energies through rituals have at this time in our evolution become empty superstitions, in a time when the intellect overshadows our other human faculties. Many gardeners are almost intuitively aware that there is more to weather than just mechanistic processes. Remembering our discussion of the plant as a macrocosmic being, we can think of the climate with its changing moods of weather as part of the plant's wider nature, as vectors of formative forces working on the visible expression of the plant, just as the storms of passion, the hot and cold temperaments, the moods of joy and gloom reveal themselves in the physiognomy of the human microcosm. Could there be a subtle sympathy between the temperaments of people and weather phenomena? In light of the recent weather irregularities and calamities, perhaps these standpoints should be reconsidered.
Working with the Microclimate: Practical Aspects
Even if we are not able to significantly affect the macroclimate, the overall weather patterns, there is a lot we can do to create microclimatic conditions that are conducive to good plant growth. We shall deal with practical considerations for warmth, light, watering, frosts, and wind protection.
Light and Warmth
It is best to choose a sunny location for the garden. Light and warmth, in interaction with carbon dioxide and the plant's water, produce sugars, starches, oils, essential oils, and fragrances that account for flavor, good keeping quality, and resistance to disease. In planning the garden space and layout, one should watch the sun over its year's path to see how the shadows of houses, trees, and hills are cast. Warm weather crops should be put into the sunniest part of the garden.
If the terrain is hilly, it is important to know the warming pattern and the angle of the sun on the hill. At a 90° angle, the sun is much more intense than at a 45° angle. The southwest of the hill is the hottest and driest, while the northeast side is moister and cooler. The east slope is cooler because the dew has to dry in the mornings before it can warm up. Hillsides are usually slightly warmer than valleys because at night cool air moves downslope. Because frosts are more severe in valleys, and light radiation is not quite as intense, it is a good idea to put fruit trees on slightly higher grounds, on southern slopes. As for the ground itself, dark humus absorbs warmth faster and keeps it longer, whereas light soil (sand) reflects the light and absorbs less heat. A light background for reflection of light is made use of in trellises for fruit grown next to house walls.
Frosts
Old Jack Frost is usually a problem in the spring, just when the plants are still small and tender. In the early spring, the ground is still cold and only its surface warms up during the day. At night the little amount of stored up warmth is given off, radiating into space, while cooler air rushes in to replace the warmer air. This is especially a problem in drier climates where the daytime temperatures might be fairly high (seventies), and because there is little water to hold the moisture, the nighttime temperatures become cold (twenties). In southern Oregon, where heavy logging has reduced the ameliorative effect of forest vegetation, the daytime-nighttime temperature difference in the spring months amounts to over 40° F. Moister soils, although they heat slower, will keep the warmth longer than dry soils, and they take much more cold before the frost point is reached. For this reason, one cultivates a little later in the spring, so that the soil does not dry out so much. Shrubbery, groves and hedges, or a nearby pond or river raise the humidity and give some frost protection. A clouded sky reflects back the heat given off by the ground, so that on overcast days no frost can be expected.
Since cold air flows like a river, following the path of least resistance, it is a good idea to study the flow patterns and the low areas where the frost settles. This flow of cold air at night will continue as long as there is snow in the mountains. At dawn, one can literally see the advance of white patches, the footsteps of frost giants, as old Nordics would say, as the cold moves down into the valley. One can deal with the cold flow by not putting the garden in a very low area but on slightly higher ground. One can either block the flow with a wall or a hedge, or one can make sure that the frost is not impeded as it moves past. The main thing is to prevent it from settling. One can create the equivalent of a protective cloud cover by setting up plastic tunnels over one's beds in the spring. These are opened during the day simply by pushing the plastic up on both sides and closed at night. In orchards smudge pots are used for similar purposes, or ventilators are set up to keep the air moving. Turning on the sprinklers during the coldest hours at night will keep the frost from harming the plants, because as long as there is fresh water to be turned to ice the temperature of the leaves will not dip below the freezing point. It is also a good idea not to mulch until the frost danger is past, so that the ground can sufficiently warm up.
In other words, what one has to watch for, especially after a cold front has passed, is a clear sky, dry wind, still air, and dry, cool ground. Given these factors in early spring, one can expect frost.
In the fall, the first frost will kill most of the warm weather plants such as tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, beans, squash, etc. One can extend the season somewhat by the use of plastic tunnels and spraying the plants with biodynamic preparation made from valerian (see Preparations, Teas, and Biotic Substances).
Air and Wind
The gardener should be familiar with local wind directions and velocities and know what kind of weather the major winds bring. Does the southwest wind bring warmth and rain, while the northeast wind brings cold and clear skies? Are there cool evening breezes from the hills or from bodies of water?
If wind sweeps too swiftly across the garden plot, several problems result. Wind cools, dehydrates, and removes the carbon dioxide that is needed by the plant for sugar production. Carbon dioxide, which is slightly heavier than normal air, hovers above the ground among the foliage layers (having been given off by the respiration of soil organisms, from whence it is absorbed by the pore openings (stomata) on the underside of the leaves). With adequate wind protection the crops will be a week ahead of time, and production will increase by about 10 percent. Wind protection is best provided by hedges, shrubbery, or lattice fences. Hedges are not havens for vermin, but provide shelter for useful animals such as toads, garter snakes, birds, and weasels, which eat mice and gophers. A hedge can shelter beehives, and provide nuts, berries, healing herbs, or beanpoles or tomato stakes. To make a hedge denser, one should trim it. Trimming the shoots, or having animals graze or nibble on them, encourages the side branches to grow. Gooseberries, red and black currants, and other berry bushes can function as a windbreak as well. In a new garden where there has not been time for a hedge to grow, the tall crops on the border of the garden can give some wind shelter (for example, Jerusalem artichokes, runner beans, corn, and peas).
Hedges and fences should have about 40 percent permeability, just slowing the wind but not stopping it. An impermeable barrier, such as a wall, creates turbulence farther on that can be destructive.
Water
The gardener must know the rainfall patterns of the region and the water-holding capacity of the soil. In southern Oregon, the year divides itself into dry summers and wet winters. One can have problems of waterlogging during part of the season, and dryness during the other part. If waterlogging becomes a problem, it is good to set up a drainage system by laying tile pipes or open trenches that empty into a lower area. If there is no lower area to empty into, it is profitable to dig a pond. A pond will keep a more steady humidity level, which moderates temperature extremes; one can raise fish and ducks in it, and use it as a water source for one's plants. Raised beds are also beneficial where the soil is soggy in the spring planting season. Roots need air pockets as they can drown in waterlogged soil.
One might have collecting tanks or barrels to catch rainwater from the roof. Rainwater collected during a thunderstorm is rich in nitrates and that collected during a full moon period is rich in the formative growth forces that are connected with the moon. Water of this nature is preferred over tap water or city water for watering the garden. Chlorinated water should be avoided, for it harms the valuable soil microorganisms and the delicate root hairs of the plants.
Dry Weather Gardening
During dry weather, or drought conditions, one can improve the water utilization of the crops in a number of ways:
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1. Double digging is a means of enlarging the rooting zone so that cultivated plants can more easily grow into the deeper, moister levels of the ground. The loosened soil interrupts the capillary action of water molecules as they move upward in the soil, where they eventually evaporate on the surface.
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2. Compost is used to increase the soil's clay-humus complexes. A clay-humus molecule holds six times its weight in water and retains up to 900 percent of the moisture compared to sand. Its electrostatic charge holds on to four molecular layers of water, which are not given up to gravity or the sun's evaporative pull, but are made available to the plants when their transpiration rate makes it necessary. It is shown experimentally that plants lacking in nutrients need more water; they have to transpire more water to get the equivalent amount of nutrients that plants rich in humus soil would be getting. It is for this reason that during droughts organic gardens stay green while those relying on artificial fertilizer instead of compost wither and even die.
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3. Mulching is the equivalent of bringing an overcast day to the level of the ground; the evaporation is greatly reduced. Ordinary mulch can reduce evaporation about 50 percent, whereas straw, which reflects light, can reduce evaporation by 70 percent.
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4. Create wind shelters, such as hedges or fences, which will decrease the amount of evaporation caused by the wind.
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5. Correct watering means watering less often, but more thoroughly. In the spring, it is important to keep the seedlings from drying out and more frequent watering is recommended, but after midsummer the watering should occur less frequently. Many people spoil their plants by turning on the sprinklers every day. The plants respond by making a shallow root system and as soon as the top layer of the soil dries, they begin to look wilted, waiting for a new shower. It is better to train the plants to root more deeply by watering less, but then to soak the ground thoroughly so that the deeper zones become moistened also. After such a soaking, the garden should be mulched to keep the evaporation rate down. If no mulch is available, it is advisable to dry mulch by hoeing after each sprinkling or irrigation in order to interrupt the evaporative pull by interrupting the capillary movement of the water molecules. This is how the Pueblo Indians are able to grow gardens in the desert. After each rain, the whole village races to the fields to start hoeing.
Watering should never be done in the noonday sun, but at night or in the mornings, for the sudden shower of cold water on the warm leaves creates a shock for the plant. It traumatizes the leaves of the plant, which are physiologically set for the hot sunny day. As a result, the plant hesitates in its growing and this blockage of energy flow becomes a signal to insects and slugs to start eating.
Some people become worried when the leaves of beans, squash, and other plants droop in the late afternoon, thinking it is time to water. Actually, the plant organisms are just adjusting to the hottest part of the day, protecting themselves from excessive transpiration. If done right, one need not water more than once, twice, or three times during a month, depending on soil and location. One of the best times to water is just before the full moon so that the lunar forces can work on the vegetation through the water. Cool-weather-loving plants—the potatoes, cabbage family, beet family, and carrot family—do not mind overhead sprinkling, but the warm-weather-loving plants, especially the tomatoes and beans, are sensitive to having their leaves wet. For the latter, soaker hoses and drip irrigation are recommended.
The soil should have the wrung-out sponge feeling all the way down to the root tips. One must make sure to water deeply enough. For experimental purposes, one could dig a hole to get an idea of the watering depth and assess the amount that is right for the soil. Faulty watering is one of the greatest causes for garden failure. In the Midwest, where the land is blessed with weekly thundershowers, this is no problem.
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6. The close spacing of plants as recommended in the French intensive method of gardening helps shade the ground and reduces evaporation. The plants are grown or planted so that as they grow the leaves touch each other; the plants (lettuces, cabbages, chard, etc.) are individually selected and harvested, giving the others a chance to grow and cover the gap with their leaves. In this way the bed remains covered by a green canopy. This method might be of merit in arid climates, where the soils easily dry out. It is a method that works well in home gardens, where one harvests the vegetable fresh for each meal, but less so for commercial gardens, where the plants are harvested in bulk. One has to be careful not to crowd the plants too much, preventing the archetypal form of each plant from coming into expression.
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7. Choosing drought-resistant varieties, as advertised in some catalogues, might be helpful in dry climates.
Mulching and Ground Covers
A final consideration for maximizing the microclimate of one's garden ecotope is to mulch between the rows. Each kind of mulch has a different effect:
- Straw mulch is light in color, reflects the sun, and therefore cools the ground; this makes it good for members of the cabbage family and other cold-weather-loving plants.
- Hay mulch feeds the soil organisms, as does straw to a lesser extent.
- Paper mulch, such as shredded newspaper, will do in a bind, but is messy because it blows away easily.
- Plastic sheets warm the ground and might be good for giving strawberries, tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers a head start, but they inhibit air circulation, causing anaerobic soil reactions. Black plastic keeps longer than clear plastic and warms more efficiently, but all plastic is difficult to get rid of. Burning it causes air pollution, as the fumes are toxic: some types of polyvinyl might even release traces of dioxin, and others release endocrine disruptors.
- Pine needle mulch is very acidic and is not recommended except for strawberries and azaleas.
- Oak leaf mulch discourages slugs, but like most leaves, it is slightly acidic.
- Fresh sawdust will rob the soil of nitrogen until it is finally broken down after a couple of years.
Mulching primarily saves water, but it also prevents weeds by depriving them of light. A six-inch mulch cover practically eliminates weeding and hoeing, while feeding and protecting the soil. Mulch buffers the soil, so that the hiatus between the atmosphere (air and light) and the soil (earth and water) is not so abrupt, making it possible for earthworms and microorganisms to work to the very top layer of soil. Mulch feeds the earthworms. Mulch keeps the soil from crusting over after a rain, which lets the soil breath and keeps the lettuce and strawberries from being splattered with dirt.
One problem with mulch is that it might shelter slugs, but with proper watering practices, such as not sprinkling every day, this should not be a major problem. Slugs can be a worst problem in gardens with clean cultivation (where weeds are destroyed and no mulch is given), where living plants are attacked. Since slugs prefer wilted greens, the right kind of mulch might even lure them away from the crop plants.
For further ideas about mulching, the best-selling Gaia's Garden by Toby Hemenway and the classic but now out-of-print The Ruth Stout No-Work Garden Book make for interesting reading.
In this section we have touched upon the so-called atmospheric factors and indicated how we can modify and meliorate some of the extremes of temperature, water, and wind, by creating beneficial microclimates that make the garden into an oasis.
Composts and Liquid Manures
Behold this compost! Behold it well!
Walt Whitman, This Compost
Composting (L. compositum = something put together) is the deliberate putting together of any number of organic substances for the sake of rotting them in such a way that a high-quality natural fertilizing agent, a medium of microorganismic life, can develop. We must distinguish between 1) the ingredients and 2) the processes of composting itself; both must be carefully attended to if the end product is to be good, stable, permanent humus.
In nature's Wheel of Life, composting occurs on the bottom of a cycle, where death processes are turned back into life processes. The cycle starts in the spring, when seeds lying dormant in the soil are awakened to life by moisture and increasing warmth. Quickened vegetative growth characterizes the vegetable kingdom from spring until midsummer, when the rapid buildup of carbonaceous substance (biomass) comes to a halt and increasingly the impulse toward flowering and subsequent seed formation is given. Older leaves start yellowing and dying off; they are chewed and shredded by insect populations, as the overall annual breakdown cycle picks up speed. Finally, in late autumn, fallen leaves and stems litter the ground as mulch, and the breakdown cycle continues as bacteria and fungi metabolize the carbohydrate substances. By spring this mulch and detritus is broken down and metamorphosed into humus as the buildup cycle of vegetation commences anew.
We get a grand picture of the rhythm of life and the interconnectedness of soil and plants when we contemplate how the plant during half of the cycle grows as lush vegetation, and during the other half of the cycle separates into a tiny viable germ (the seed or bud) on one hand and litter and debris on the other hand, to be finally reunited in the spring when the seed grows once again out of the humus. Animal substances, manures, urine, secretions, and corpses work into this cycle of life and death, bringing nitrogen and enzymes into it.
In biologically sound organic farming and gardening, soil building by composting is the key. In nature we observe composting processes at work all the time as decaying leaves, litter, dead animals, tree stumps, and other remnants of life whose etheric forces have left them or been weakened, and are being putrefied, rotted, decayed, or fermented. Some gardeners feel that it is important to imitate these processes on their garden beds. Mulching continually or letting the mulch rot on the ground as time goes by is the way they try to do this. This kind of composting
is very much like nature does it. There is nothing to be said against this practice, however, building a compost pile and conducting a guided decomposition process is lending nature a helping hand. Composting is biodynamics par excellence, for here, one is neither letting nature take its course, nor is one violating nature's principles, but one is aiding nature, speeding her up a bit, and guiding the changes in such a way that it is beneficial for the garden organism.
The art of composting is very ancient. Pliny the Elder (Plinius), the renowned Roman naturalist, wrote about it; the eleventh-century Arab scholar Ibn al Awam discussed it; alchemists practiced it to find the secrets of transmutation; and peasants and yeomen have practiced some form of composting for quite some time. In the West this tended to be the dung heap, where manure, carcasses, scraps, and stall bedding was thrown and left to rot. These were reeking piles that lost much nitrogen to the atmosphere due to denitrifying bacteria and anaerobic putrefaction. In East Asia, more careful management of compost had been practiced for centuries, making it possible for large families to survive on two to five acres. Here, everything organic, weeds, human excrement, animal manures, pond dredgings, and sod were composted in special composting sheds that formed part of the cluster of buildings that made up the farmstead. Roofed over manure piles were also found on Swiss farmsteads.
Compost science and care was neglected in the decades following the advent of chemical farming and the displacement of animals from the farms: of horses by tractors; of cows, chickens, and hogs into feedlots. This development has a serious ecological impact and puts the permanent fertility of the land into jeopardy. The organic agriculture movement has reemphasized the importance of composting (for example, Sir Howard's Indore method) and biodynamics in particular has added valuable scientific data to the art of compost making by analyzing ingredients, composting stages, and kinds of special compost for specific crop needs, and by providing preparations made from herbs to guide the decomposition in the most favorable way. (See section Teas, Preparations, and Biotic Substances.)
Compost Ingredients
Any organic substance can be composted. There are different types of composts that can be made from different materials for different purposes. Common garden compost can be made from organic garbage, weeds, manures of domestic animals, leaves, paper, and sod. The ingredients should be mixed as well as possible; this is even better than layering the ingredients. Chopping the materials as finely as possible with a silage chopper or shredder can be of great advantage, especially when dealing with such ingredients as sunflower stems, cabbage or corn stalks, and other tough haulms. A neighborhood or a garden club could share the cost of a compost shredder.
The carbon-nitrogen ratio (C-N ratio), the relative amount of carbon to nitrogen in the compost materials, is of major importance in correctly setting up a compost. Sawdust, which has 500 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen, is said to have a wide ratio, whereas sludge, which has a ratio of 6 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen, is said to be close. An ideal C-N ratio at the start of the composting process is about 30:1 or 25:1. After the compost starts working, it will lose volume due to the escape of carbon dioxide and water vapor, which brings the end product close to an ideal of a 15:1 to 20:1 ratio.
If one has substances such as sawdust, paper, straw, or leaves that have a wide C-N ratio, then one must balance this out with substances having a narrow ratio in order to approach the ideal 25–30:1 C-N ratio. This is done by adding manures, guano, blood meal, bone and horn meal, wool, feathers, urines, chicken manure, pig bristles, slurry, and even hair sweepings from a barber shop.
Fresh sawdust might even be treated at first with artificial nitrogen (i.e., urea, ammonia sulfate) to narrow the C-N gap and help bacteria break it down. After such a predigesting, the sawdust pile can be reworked into a regular compost pile. This is one of the few exceptions where artificial substances might be cautiously used.
Too close of a C-N ratio at the beginning of composting leads to nitrogen losses, which can be detected by the foul smell of ammonia. This also attracts flies. Properly prepared composts should not have strong odors.
Too wide of a C-N ratio slows the composting considerably. If lack of sufficient nitrogen is coupled with low temperatures and too much moisture, an acidic, peat-like end product, resembling the peat in northern climates, will be the result.
Besides the ingredients that furnish the C-N ratio, other substances are added to the compost:
- Earth, or regular garden soil, at the most 5 to 10 percent, can be mixed in to aid the earthworms (red wrigglers) and the humus formation.
- Clay that has been dried and pulverized can be sprinkled among the layers of compost materials. When examining a clay-treated compost, one finds that most of the earthworm eggs and young earthworms are active near the clay particles.
- Lime, or calcium, preferably in the form of dolomite or ground limestone, should be dusted among the layers of the compost, as though one were dusting a cake with powdered sugar. This is done when the compost is set up or every time it is turned. This is a better way of adding lime to the soil than broadcasting it directly onto the soil; in the compost it becomes tied into the permanent humus molecules and facilitates the cation exchange. The right amount of lime keeps the compost from souring and discourages flies. Too much lime must be avoided for it will drive off the ammonia and, because of its alkaline reaction, discourage the ammonia-absorbing compost fungi. Cellulose-digesting bacteria, on the other hand, need the presence of some calcium.
- Wood ash, which supplies potassium and minerals, should also be finely laced throughout the compost. Like lime and clay powder, it should not be put into the compost in large clumps, for then it forms caustic lye (potassium hydroxide) when moistened. Only the ash of a wood fire should be used, not from a coal fire or from burned trash. Ashes from black coal contain too much sulfur to be of good use. Ashes from plastics, colored, glossy paper, and chemical stuff should definitely be avoided.
- Granite flour, basalt flour, green sand, rock phosphate, colloidal phosphate, and other amendments are put into the compost in the same way.
There are a number of compost starters, or compost activators, on the market. J. I. Rodale was of the opinion that they are not really needed, for the bacteria and spores of microorganisms are everywhere in the ground, air, and water so that the pile, given the correct C-N ratio, will take off by itself. I basically agree and do not use compost starters. Many biodynamic gardeners are convinced that one is more successful with Pfeiffer's biodynamic compost starter, containing bacteria isolated from the biodynamic preparations made from herbs, for this brings the right kind of bacteria into play, so that the rotting will proceed favorably. Pfeiffer himself compared his compost starter to yeast added to bread. One can mix the flour and water and then leave it exposed to the air to catch wild yeast spores that will ferment and raise the dough, but, what an awful taste! Yeast must come from a select strain to make good bread.
Permaculture advocates are enthused about the use of the so-called Effective Microorganisms (EM) developed by Teruo Higa, professor of horticulture at the University of the Ryukyus (Okinawa), as an aid in creating compost materials. The EMs consist of about eighty microbial species, mostly yeasts, lactic acid bacteria, and other anaerobic strains that one finds also in beer mash, sauerkraut, and silage. These friendly
microorganisms are indeed effective in fermenting slurries, sludge, compost teas, bokashi-compost (anaerobic composting in sealed buckets), and humanure (recycled human night soil and urine); they have been effective in reviving eutrophicated (polluted, biologically dead) lakes and aquatic ecosystems or soils that have been damaged by pesticides and agro-chemicals. But as far as standard composting, which relies mainly on aerobic bacteria, I don't think one needs EMs.
Old mature compost is, in my estimation, a most excellent starter when sprinkled into the new heap. A few handfuls suffice. Russian tea,
or a fermentation of cow dung in ten parts water; Chairman Mao's compost starter,
made from a four to one dilution of urine; nettle tea or nettle ferment, made by brewing nettles or fermenting them in rainwater; or a ferment of comfrey leaves (Symphytum officinale) help to get the proper rotting processes started when added to the compost.
When, Where, and How to Set Up the Compost
It is best to have a permanent composting area, centrally located in the garden for easy transport of materials. The compost should be placed on the bare ground and not on wooden or cement platforms so that bacteria from previous piles can infect it and earthworms can travel into the subsoil and back into the compost. The compost should not be put into a pit, and certainly not be trampled down, for that would result in anaerobic decomposition, in putrefaction and fermentation, with the result of an inferior end product. Nitrate-producing bacteria need plenty of oxygen, since they are aerobic. Therefore, the composts should be somewhat loosely piled on top of the ground, where the pile can be kept moist, but not waterlogged. The materials are shredded as finely as possible to increase the surface areas for the bacteria to work on.
The composting site should be either shady or roofed over in warmer, drier localities. Elderberry, hazelnut, birch, and alder make ideal compost shade trees, for their leaf and root exudates aid in the decomposition processes. However, some trees and shrubs, such as willows, will send their roots into the compost pile and leach all of its nutrients. It is a good idea to cap these roots with a sharp spade once in a while. In cooler climates, composts should be put into wind-sheltered, sunny areas. It is well worth protecting the compost with a layer of black plastic or old carpets, which keeps the compost from drying out during a dry spell, and, on the other hand, keeps the nutrients from leaching out during a rainy season. Evaporating moisture will condense underneath the plastic and percolate and circulate through the pile. A roofed-over compost place also protects from drying or leaching.
Windrows about four-feet high, six feet wide, and as long as necessary are the best shape for the composts. In this way, a critical mass is achieved, for the biochemical reactions to take place. If the compost pile is too small, it will not heat and decompose properly; if the pile is too large, the inner core will still be raw, besides being deprived of air, while the outside mantel will have already broken down.
Like any living organism, the compost must have a skin to keep the gases, such as ammonia and methane, and other products of metabolism from being dissipated. A mantle of peat, old sawdust, straw, or other nitrogen-poor substance keeps the odors, which are really fertility in volatile form, from passing into the atmosphere. Underneath, the compost might be bedded upon straw, hay, peat, or a similar absorbent substance if there is a chance of run-off of liquids.
For smaller gardens, a wooden composting bin or a roll of wire mesh make good composting devices. Fresh material is pitched into the top, while finished compost can be scooped out of the bottom.
Special Composts and Manures
There are a number of composts other than the ordinary garden compost that is made from available weeds, leaves, and kitchen scraps. Special composts for legumes (
Special composts can be made for specific purposes from various animal droppings and manures. In general it can be said that the manure of a particular animal species best fertilizes the part of the plant upon which these animals characteristically feed. Here the characteristics of the different kinds of animal dung:
- Pig manure is rich in potash and when well humified is best applied to root crops, especially potassium-hungry leeks, celeriac, and potatoes. Pigs are primarily rooting animals and prefer to feed on roots they dig up with their snouts.
- Composted horse manure is light and will lighten heavy, clay soils. Horses feed primarily on foliage and grass; consequently their manure aids leaf and foliage development. Horse manure, which is rich in ammonia, will heat steadily for a long time. This makes it ideal for use in hot beds for raising seedlings in the spring. For a home garden, or even a larger garden where no greenhouse is available, this is a good way to start plants. (See section The Garden Calendar.)
- Cow manure, when well rotted, fertilizes the entire plant, but especially leaf and foliage.
- Rabbit manures, which are rich in nitrogen, are good for foliage, stem, and shrubbery development.
- Chicken, pigeon, and other bird manures are good for seeds, flowers, and fruits, because their manure is rich in phosphorus and complicated indole compounds (auxins involved in flower and ovary formations). It is on the perimeter of the generalized plant, on the border of the macrocosmic etheric and astral planes, that the chickens feed as they peck for seeds and scratch for worms and grubs. In this they feed on the opposite end of the plant as the rooting hogs; they are far enough apart on the food chain that hungry hogs are not averse to devouring chicken droppings. Chicken manure, which is sticky, wet, and odorous, is hard to compost. It is best made into liquid compost by mixing it into ten parts water and letting it ferment in a barrel. This potent brew should be stirred briefly every day. It is ready in about six to eight weeks and makes an excellent liquid fertilizer for the heavy feeders that are to flower, fruit, or seed, such as tomatoes, corn, okra, squash, or cauliflower. It turns out that pigeon manure is also excellent for asparagus.
- Sheep and goat manure are excellent for increasing the quality and aroma of fruits, the essential oil (i.e., terpineol, phenols, ketones, aldehydes) content of herbs, and the fatty oil content of seed crops such as rape, mustard, hemp, and flax. Sheep manure helps the mint family members (
Laminaceae , orLabiatiae ), so that it is a good idea to graze sheep in large mint fields where they clean out the weeds and, because of their manure, increase the essential oils of the mint. One can appreciate how sheep and goats fit into the ecology of the drier Mediterranean region, such as Greece, southern Italy, or the Provence, where olives and world-renowned culinary herbs are grown.
Manures are composted like other substances, with the addition of small amounts of earth, clay, lime, wood ash, and rock flours, as well as straw, hay, weeds, or other vegetable matter. For heavier manures, such as cow or hog manure, special care has to be taken to bring air into the compost pile. This can be done by mixing it with straw and other light materials, tossing it with manure forks into a pile so it does not clump as much, or, on farms, setting the manure spreader on stationary
and running it through onto a heap.
Composted manures aid the garden crop by creating ideal conditions for the edaphon and feeding the soil life, not just by feeding the plant itself. Growing in such a living medium, the plant expresses itself truer to type; the stages of metamorphosis, the rooting, foliage unfolding, flowering, and fruiting are more clearly defined. The increased vitality of the plant helps ward off disease and insect troubles.
The Sacred Cow
It is worth looking closer at the cow and the manure she produces. The cow pie is the queen of fertilizers. This becomes obvious when we examine the long, complicated digestive organism of this animal. Cud-chewing ruminants like the bison or buffalo made the humus-rich prairies possible, which became the breadbasket of the world. Were it not for sacred cows, India would be in much worse shape than it is. These cows are not competitors as some Western technocrats believe, but they live in symbiosis with human beings, eating weeds and roughage that could not otherwise be utilized and returning milk, draft power, and manure. This dung amounts to seven hundred million tons annually, half of which serves as fertilizer and the other half as fuel (the thermal equivalent of twenty-seven million tons of kerosene, thirty-five million tons of coal, or sixty-eight million tons of wood). In countries of the cooler latitudes, cows are one of the mainstays of fertility because high rainfall and low temperatures leach the soils and they become acidic, leading to podzol soils and peat formations. Inside their warm organisms cows carry a microbial flora and fauna that break down, ferment, and digest cellulose, proteins, carbohydrates, and other such substances that might be done externally in the soil in the warmer latitudes, but here must be done inside the animal organism. The intestinal microorganisms help to bind the nutrients into the manures so that the acidic, starved northern soils and podzols can become fertile.
When one looks at the ruminants, one finds four-chambered stomachs. In the first two chambers, the rumen and the reticulum, chewed plant material is stored and fermented. Bacterial florae by the billions are involved in this pre-digestion. Regurgitation of the food and a further chewing of the cud serve to completely break down fiber and roughage. Bacteria and protozoa secrete enzymes (cellulose), which digest the glucose-yielding cellulose. Complex acid-base relationships permeate the digestion process. These microorganisms synthesize amino acids, vitamin B12, and fatty acids for the cow. No other animal can make such good use of roughage. Feeding grain, dried Peruvian sardines, and nitrogen-rich alfalfa to cattle violates their basic nature and makes these animals sick (scuttles, milk fevers, etc.). In a lecture (1923) in Dornach, Switzerland, Rudolf Steiner stated that cows that were fed protein supplements derived from meat or bonemeal would go mad. He, thus, basically foresaw the possibility of the mad cow disease (BSE; Bovine spongiform encephalopathy) that ravaged these gentile grass-eating herbivores at the turn of the century (around 2000) after having been fed processed wastes from slaughterhouses in order to increase their milk production.
The alimentary tract of cattle is richly endowed with nervous tissue, monitoring the digestive process the whole long distance of the alimentary canal. It takes twelve days for this process to be completed. It is appropriate to compare the complexity of the cow's digestion to that of the human brain. Whereas in primate fashion, our senses are turned outward to the world at large, the seemingly dull cow has its senses turned inward, into its digestion, meditating
on the forces and energies that are fixed into the vegetable kingdom and liberating these forces during digestion. No wonder the cow is sacred in India, for besides its utilitarian uses, it is the very image of a consciousness turned inward upon itself in deepest meditation. With this in mind, is it any wonder that cow dung, cow manure, has a special healing value for the soil and makes the best compost material imaginable?
It is one of the greatest sins of our time to have severed the cow from the land and placed them into concentrated livestock operations, to have deprived the human being of his/her association with this beatific beast, and to have chemical salts replace their valuable manure. An average feedlot of twenty-five thousand cattle produces 650 tons of manure daily; its removal is expensive and its storage causes runoff-pollution problems.
Natural cow manure compost is one of the best for the gardener to acquire. It is best to get the manure from cattle that are fed on local fodder, for the cow's digestive processes produce manure that is hormonally and enzymatically geared to the specific needs of the soils on which the fodder was grown.
Liquid Manures
Liquid manures, used in the watering of the heavy feeders during the growing season or as compost activators, can be made from a number of substances that are placed into a barrel with rainwater or pond water at a ratio of 10:1 and left to ferment for a number of weeks. Stinging nettle liquid manure is rich in iron, needed for the chlorophyll formation of green leaves, and helps in the humus buildup of the soil. Cabbage leaf slurry aids the sulfur metabolism of the soil. Comfrey, rich in various minerals (CA, K, P, Ma) and vitamins, makes effective liquid manure. Chicken and pigeon dung, as well as cow pies, can be fermented in water and used for special feeding purposes: the bird slurry for flowers and fruits, the cow manure for aiding root development in general.
Liquid manures, which involve anaerobic fermentation, can produce unpleasant smells like rotten eggs (hydrogen sulfide), ammonia, and swamp gas (methane). To keep the odors at a minimum, it is advisable to stir it occasionally to bring air into the brew and to inoculate with old compost, compost starter, Effective Microorganisms (EMs), or shredded stinging nettle to help guide the fermentation processes in the right direction. Some gardeners put a floating layer of peat moss, chopped straw, or sawdust on the slurry to absorb the fumes. In the summer, the inch-long sluggish, fat rat-tailed maggots of hovering flies or drone flies (genus
The Composting Process
Just watching what one puts into the compost as ingredients is not enough to ensure its success. What happens to these ingredients is important. One can compare the composting process to the digestion occurring in animal intestines, which is a process similar to composting. The same kind of fodder, such as clover and grass, can be given to a goat, rabbit, horse, or cow. Though the input is the same, the output is different because of dissimilar digestive processes are involved. Each will come out with its characteristic manure. Responsible are the different lengths and shapes of the digestive apparatus, the different intestinal flora and enzymatic secretions, and the varied time needed for digestion (twelve days for cows, four days for horses, etc.). Cow manure is heavy with its distinct, aromatic smell; pig manure is heavy and sour smelling; horse manure is light and gives off ammonia vapors; sheep, goat, and rabbit manures are dry. Each kind of manure has its typical shape and other characteristics. In the same way, the compost can end up as a nitrogen-poor, peat-like substance, as a heavy, dark humus high in ulmic and fulvic acids, or any range in between, depending on how the decomposition has proceeded. In an extreme case, one can lose most of the substance of the compost into the air if the breakdown cycle is not accompanied by the buildup cycle, if the bacteria metabolize the carbon into carbon dioxide, the nitrogen into ammonia and N2, and the hydrogen and oxygen are given off as vapor.
For achieving the aimed for guided decomposition, the four elements—earth, water, air, and fire—must be in a balanced relationship:
- Earth is the solid matter, including the 5 percent of soil mixed into the compost and the mineral amendments. Too much earthy substance slows the composting processes down.
- Water involves the critical moisture content that is needed by the bacteria in their metabolism. Especially in the earlier composting stages, enough water must be present. The right amount of water is indicated when the compost has the feel of a wrung sponge; when squeezed, it moistens the surface of the hand, but no drops come gushing out. The gardener must keep a check on maintaining this kind of moisture content.
- Air is needed for oxidation. Handling the air element involves making sure that the compost is not packed too tightly (a shredder helps here) so that oxygen is available for the aerobic bacteria, and keeping one's nose alert to the possible loss of ammonia.
- The fire element involves the initial heating process of the compost, which might reach temperatures of up to 140°–160° Fahrenheit.
When the composting activity deviates into the direction of the lighter elements, when the compost is too dry, too loose, or has lost moisture during the initial heating phase, it will develop a musty smell, white mildew, and an unusually large number of pill bugs or sow bugs (
In biodynamic agriculture, the decomposing processes and the buildup of new substance is not left to circumstance. Special preparations made from common herbs (dandelion, oak bark, nettle, yarrow, chamomile, and valerian) are placed into the compost to guide the processes. This is discussed in detail in section Teas, Preparations, and Biotic Substances.
Compost carries out life functions and goes through distinct stages. In that sense, we can speak of the compost as a living organism: not the specialized organism of advanced animals, but a very generalized, amorphous organism like primitive sponges or algae in which the life functions are not centralized. Like all living organisms, it does best when given its characteristic shape, that of the windrow in this case, and a protective membrane, a skin of straw, peat moss, or plastic so that the vital odors do not escape. Only composts whose processes have gone awry develop odors, just as only when animals are sick do they develop unpleasant smells.
There are three life stages to this generalized organism, somewhat in analogy to man's lively childhood, adolescence, and ripe old age. The first stage (Stage I) is the thermophile bacteria-fungus stage. This is still part of the overall breakdown cycle in the revolving Wheel of Life. Bacteria break proteins down into amino acids and finally ammonia. Carbohydrates are broken down into simple sugars, organic acids, and carbon dioxide. Other compounds are similarly broken down. If this bacterial breakdown were to continue, the organic compounds would be reduced to inorganic substances such as free carbon dioxide, atmospheric nitrogen, sulfur, oxygen, hydrogen, etc. This does not happen because the buildup cycle meshes right into the breakdown of the original organic substances. The buildup cycle proceeds with fungi, which eagerly ingest the free ammonia and rebuild the amino acids in their mycelia. Stage I is characterized by the generation of much heat given off by energy liberated during metabolism of thermophile organisms. When one sections a compost at this stage, one can see how the bacteria eat their way into the center of the pile and how they are followed immediately by the whitish mycelia of the fungi, which absorb the gases given off. During this stage, the moisture content is critical and must be monitored by the gardener.
The second phase in the compost's life cycle is the earthworm stage (Stage II). During this, the adolescence of the compost, the heating has reduced, the heat-loving bacteria have formed spores, and the fungi have pre-digested the organic substances for the earthworms and actinomycetes to work on. Actinomycetes are bacteria resembling fungi in that they form webs of hyphae. One can see their presence at this stage as the whitish gray film in the compost, or one can smell them, for they are responsible for the typical pleasant fresh earth
odor. These useful microorganisms degrade tough substances like chitin (the exoskeletons of insects), cellulose, and linin (wood), while at the same time producing a range of antibiotics that keep pathogens in check.
If Stage I has not gone completely satisfactorily, with undigested, putrid or dry sections remaining, then this would be the time to turn and remix the compost for a brief recapitulation of Stage I, causing a brief reheating. No further turning of the compost is necessary if Stage I has been completed successfully.
The earthworms now proceed to mix the organic substances that the fungi and actinomycetes have pre-digested with small amounts of clay in the presence of calcium, as they eat their way through the heap. In doing so, the polymerized carbon chains are reconstituted in the form of clay-humus complexes, which absorb cations such as calcium, ammonium, magnesium, potassium, sodium, and others.
The as yet little understood clay-humus molecule is more than a simple anion, but also coats itself with phosphates, sulfates, and nitrates. In other words, this macromolecule becomes a sponge for nutrients. Whereas Stage I compost would interfere with the growing process of plants, Stage II compost can be already used as mulch or as fertilizer for such heavy feeders as cabbages, corn, okra, pumpkins, squash, and melons. At this point of development a number of arthropods, such as centipedes, millipedes, and predatory metallic looking carabid beetles, start to settle the compost.
For young seedlings and for root crops such as carrots, beets, oyster plants or parsnips, it is better to wait for the compost to reach the stage of ripeness, or maturity (Stage III), the stage of the humus bacteria. It is during this stage that the compost turns into good, crumbly, fragrant humus earth. Nitrates and saltpeter, which are needed by root crops and young sprouting plants, are made available by organisms that further oxidize the nitrogen substances.
The speed at which the compost goes through its three stages depends upon extraneous factors such as climate, temperature, the size of the heap, and the kind of ingredients. The quickest composts, such as Miss Bruce's Quick Return Method or the University of California Method, succeed in making compost in two weeks under ideal conditions. Quick-rotting materials that are shredded to increase the surface area; a narrow C-N ratio supplied by fresh grass clippings, legumes, manures, and amendments such as bird manure, blood meal, fish meal, or cottonseed meal; and maintenance of the right quantum of moisture and air by frequent turning result in a usable fertilizer in the shortest time possible. The product basically only goes to Stage II before the earthworms enter. The clay-humus molecules that account for creating permanent fertility do not result from this speeded-up process. Quick composts seem to be symptomatic of our age of instant success and instant gratification. The quick composts make good top dressings and feeding for heavy feeders, but like sheet composting, they do not lead to permanent buildup of fertility. Ripened composts that have taken six months to a year are more stable. Some compost can even take up to four years and be fitted into four-year fertilizing cycles.
Human Wastes
Agricultural people in Asia, Central America, Africa, and elsewhere have used human excretion extensively. In rural China, every bit of night soil is collected and turned into fertilizer by fermenting it in pits or composting it. Contractors are paid for the privilege of collecting the night soil of the cities, which they in turn sell to the peasants; and privies along country roads are set up so that the traveller might benefit the famer with a bit of fertility. Most of these wastes are fermented anaerobically and the slurry is eventually applied to the crops by long-handled dip buckets after a heavy rain. In dry, arid climates, night soil is dried and pulverized and then mixed into compost for turning into humus.
In much of the Western world, such practices were not entirely unknown. The runoff wastes of barn and latrine were collected in large pits and utilized by the peasantry. They were spread as fertilizer with honey wagons
and honey buckets
onto fields and pastures in the late fall or early spring. American pioneers planted fruit trees over outhouse holes when these were full to supply nutrients to the growing tree. With the increased urbanization of the industrial age, disposal became ever more of a problem and the findings of L. Pasteur and R. Koch about the existence of pathogens in excrement (
What about the utilization of human feces and urine in smaller gardens? Generally, gardeners have not had the need to utilize human excrement because of the availability of manures and organic substances. Biodynamic practitioners have avoided the use of human excretion, except within the circulation of matter of the closed, self-sustaining farm organism. Most organisms avoid their own excretions. Cows and horses, for example, will not eat the grass that sprouts lusciously around their own droppings; but cows will eat where horse droppings have fertilized and horses cherish the grass benefitted by cow dung. Between the excrement and the consumption of food, a number of conversions and natural cycles must intervene. In the wake of the First World War, when biodynamics was pioneered, fertilizer was expensive and raw sewage had been used on fields surrounding larger cities, such as Berlin, to close the fertilizer gap. The resultant vegetables, especially the cabbages, had an awful taste. It was then realized that human wastes cannot be used immediately as they are; if, however, they are fully composted, and perhaps passed through other organisms, then they are perfectly good sources of nutrients. Biodynamic farms that I visited in Switzerland collected barn runoff and latrine runoff in large cement containers. These containers are treated with the biodynamic preparations and stinging nettle cuttings to help them ferment in the right way. The stench of such anaerobic decomposition is avoided by floating a six-inch layer of shredded straw, peat moss, or sawdust. When they are full, the tanks are then left to ferment for two to four years while another tank serves for collecting. The fully fermented slurry is distributed over the pastures, where it completes its cycle by being used by soil organisms and plants. The plants are fed to cattle that close the biological cycle by producing milk.
For smaller gardens, the cycle must be different. The Findhorn garden made use of human wastes in its early stages by emptying the night buckets together with straw onto the compost heaps and letting it go through regular decomposition. This seems to have been satisfactory, though it is not such a long cycle. John Todd of the New Alchemy Institute reports of a longer cycle involving a number of organisms to purify sewage. A series of pools are set up through which the sewage circulates. Aquatic plants are grown in the first pool that are then fed to aquatic insect larvae, which feed fish; these are, in turn, fed to chickens, which, in turn, feed the humans again. The final runoff is used to irrigate tree crops and lawns.
Composting toilets, such as the Clivus System, the Van der Ryn System, or the Könemann closet are worth investigating. In any case, a thorough composting process and a long biological cycle must be made use of in order to get the best and most sanitary results. The composting can be done either aerobically, as when dried sludge is composted with other ingredients and goes through a good heating process, or anaerobically, as when digesters are used to produce methane that can be utilized to fulfill other energy needs and result in a fertilizer of sorts.
Humus
The desired end product is, of course, humus that is composed of long-chained molecules that act as a sponge for nutrients and water. Four molecular layers of water held by excessive electrostatic charge cover good humus. It has 900 percent the water-holding capacity of sand. This water becomes available to the plant when it needs it. Humus creates good structure, or tilth, and keeps the soil from compacting. The clay-humus complex produces steady fertility. Since it binds the nutrient ions in its macromolecular structure, it is not subject to losing them by volatilization or leaching. Humus is the home of soil organisms, which are a fertilizing factor themselves because of chelation and by adding their bodies to the stock of nutrients when they die. Humus warms the ground more quickly in the spring. Studies show that humus stimulates the sugar production in plants and leads to better oxygen utilization. It results in better seed germination. Vitamin, protein, gluten, and carotene contents increase in plants grown in humus as opposed to those grown in soils salted with synthetic NPK. Humus buffers the pH, maintaining the degree of acidity-alkalinity preferred by plants.
There can be no doubt about the central importance of proper humus management to the well-being of farm and garden and to man and beast. In view of the fact that in the short span of the last one hundred years, some 60 percent of the world's humus reserves have been lost, and that the cost of supplying chemical fertilizers will go up as energy shortages increase, humus management becomes ever more urgent: and composting is the right way to go about it.
Companion Planting, Crop Rotation, and Weeds
Weeds are people's idea, not nature's.
Author unknown
But while his men were sleeping, his enemy came and sowed tares (weeds) among the wheat, and went away.
New American Standard Bible, 1955
It is a basic understanding of organic and biodynamic gardening that nature functions as an interacting whole. Every part has an effect on every other part. Why should plants growing next to each other in the garden bed not follow this principle? Many gardeners have observed such mutual influences. Scientists have been slow to study these effects because the current scientific methodology has great difficulty isolating and locating the exact interactions and the semiochemicals (pheromones, allo-mones, kairomones, repellents, and attractants) involved. As we have seen, a similar problem exists in the study of lunar and planetary influences on plants; it is nearly impossible to separate the significant from the insignificant variables and to repeat the exact conditions in experimental settings.
Nonetheless, few scientists deny such interrelationships among plants, and a fledgling field of synecology, plant sociology, and allelochemics (the study of the effects of plant excretions on one another) exists. Pfeiffer has mentioned research done in the 1930s. Helen Philbrick and Richard B. Gregg undertook a pioneer effort on the subject in a book called Companion Plants and How to Use Them. It is admittedly a primer and not a scientific treatise, but it is useful for gardeners since it lists all the entries in alphabetical order. Louise Riotte wrote a similar book called Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening.
What are the reasons for companion plant effects? Different species are accumulators of different substances that are vital within the whole ecology. We all know how legumes function as accumulators of nitrogen, creating beneficial effects for plants growing beside them or following them in rotation. Other plants have other functions within the organic totality. For example, daisies, broom, buckwheat, dandelion, and chamomile accumulate calcium, even if growing in calcium-poor soil. Henbane, thorn apple, and valerian specialize in phosphoric acid. Foxglove collects Fe, Ca, Si, and Mg. German chamomile collects K and Ca; horsetail is an avid collector of Si; yarrow collects K, Ca, and Si. The list goes on indefinitely. Measurements are hard to specify because some plants increase the percentage of elements with age as the plant grows, other decrease the percentage. Hauschka indicates rhythmical variation during the year and during the lunar cycles. Conditions of the soil substrate influence the chemistry of plants, so that, for example, tobacco is rich in K when it is grown in soil poor in K and vice versa. Furthermore, the study is complicated by suggestions of elemental transmutations as researched by Kervran, Hauschka, and Spindler.
Plants are not passively at the mercy of their environment, but actively engaged in selecting and rejecting nutrients, sending root hairs throughout the soil and then dying back, altering the soil in the process and providing specific conditions for the myriad of microorganisms, which in turn alter the chemistry of the soil. These biological processes make use of mechanical laws such as diffusion, osmosis, and so forth, but much of it occurs contrary to purely mechanistic laws, just as plant growth itself counters the law of gravity. As the great Dutch botanist Hugo de Vries pointed out in 1905, the chemical combination of the plant does not conform to that of the soil or water in which it grows, and sometimes the variation in two adjacent plants is very great.
Not just the elements are accumulated and given off by specific plants, but also the complex compounds such as amino acids, hormones, enzymes, auxins, growth inhibitors, and others, not all of which have as yet been discovered. These biotic substances are given off into the surroundings of the plant as the perfume or pollen of the flowers, as essential oils by the leaves, by excretions of the roots, by the discarding of dying plant tissue, and they are carried in insect droppings or by insect go-betweens, as is the pollen by the bees. Sometimes the quantities given off are minute, occurring in homeopathic dosage or at the rate of trace minerals. A few years ago, such incredibly small quantities would have been scorned as ineffective, but now it is known that some elements, even when removed to a distance, have an effect on the living organism of a plant. Plants, especially herbs, as they give off minute substances that alter soil flora and other plants, work within the ecology of the soil much like the endocrine glands within the microcosm of the animal organism, by regulating metabolism, reproduction, and other life functions by minute chemical programmers. Since we are dealing with a macrocosmic process, the effects are not as compact as they would be in a more specialized organism. The companion effect can be created by purposeful planting of certain species next to each other, or sometimes by the administration of herb teas and ferments to the soil. Companion plant effects are probably more widespread than we realize. One need only look at fields, meadows, and forests to realize that some species prefer to grow with specific others, fitting together like the pieces of a jigsaw puzzle. Up until the dawn of ecological studies, our biological science labored under the assumption that the first law in nature is the struggle for survival and the survival of the fittest. We have seen that this dog-eat-dog idea is more a projection of the conditions created by industrialization and class struggle than a true understanding of biology. Why should plants not have evolved for mutual benefit? As the conservationist Joseph Cocannouer shows so effectively, even weeds, having evolved right along with horticultural practices, often have beneficial companion effects; they are not just mean competitors for nutrients.
Flowers make good companion plants, also, besides adding beauty to the vegetable garden. The suggestion has been made that flower saps keep predators alive when pests are in low supply. The predators of sugar-sap-secreting aphids are kept around the garden by having flower nectars available. Borders of aromatic herbs keep hungry insects away from crop plants, possibly because the fragrance masks the odor of the other plants. Other companion plants distract the insects from the crops.
As Alan Chadwick points out, concerning the effects and influences of plants upon one another, here, too, it is the craft of the gardener to create relationships and dis-relationships
by planting some plants together and avoiding others.
Many native horticulturists have been aware of companion planting and have incorporated it into their agricultural lore. King reports examples of multiple crops
in the Far East, such as wheat, Windsor beans, and cotton, or alternating rows of beans and millet. Other examples are cited in ethnographic accounts, but much more research could be done in this area. Famous are the combinations of the American Indian companion cropping of corn, beans, squash, often with amaranth and a number of weeds that served as soup greens. The anthropologist Clifford Geertz tells of the almost uncanny imitation
of the natural ecosystem of many slash-and-burn horticulturalists: The swidden plot is not a field at all in the proper sense, but a miniaturized tropical forest composed mainly of food producing and other cultivates.
Anthropologist Roy Rappaport writes about the Tsem-baga of New Guinea. He reports that the use of companion and successive planting results in maximum utilization of the sun's energy by the leaves, protection of soil against washing out even on hillsides, discouragement of insects, and the availability of alternative food supply if one crop does not yield. The jungle-like atmosphere is recreated when he writes: A mat of sweet potato leaves covers the soil at ground level. The taro leaves project over this mat; the hibiscus, sugarcane and pitpit stand higher still, and the fronds of the banana spread out above the rest.
As a final example of interplanted gardens, we read the description of a typical Guatemalan garden as seen by a botanist:
The garden I charted was a small affair about the size of a small city lot in the United States. It was covered with a riotous growth so luxuriant and so apparently planless that any ordinary American or European visitor accustomed to the puritanical primness of north European gardens, would have supposed (if he even chanced to realize that it was indeed a garden) that it must be a deserted one. Yet when I went through it carefully I could find no plants, which were not useful to the owner in one way or another. There were no noxious weeds; the return per man-hour of effort was apparently high.[...]
He goes on to describe the great variety of plants complete with fruit trees, shrubs, flowers, vegetables, and beehives, stating that though it was on a slope, there was no problem of erosion because of the intertangled root systems; pests and diseases were checked because individuals of the same plant species were separated by other plants; and there was high efficiency in terms of production per pound of vegetables and fruits per man-hour per square foot. In terms of American or European equivalents the garden was a vegetable garden, a medical garden, a dump heap, a compost heap, and a bee yard.
The biodynamic, French intensive method of gardening as taught by Alan Chadwick has reintroduced such high energy gardening into the temperate latitudes.
Since other books have been written on the subject, only a partial listing of companions is made here. These were gathered by observant gardeners and gleaned from tradition.
A Few Good Companion Plant Combinations
- Beans grow well with almost everything, especially cucumbers, strawberries, early potatoes, cabbage, and celery.
- Cabbage grows well with bush beans, is aided by border plantings of dill and chamomile, and when interplanted with hemp (Cannabis sativa), it has less problems with the cabbage moth. Fall cabbage will do well when preceded by early potatoes.
- Celery and any member of the umbellifer family, such as carrots, parsnips, Hamburg parsley, and celeriac, will grow well with any member of the lily family, such as onion, shallots, garlic, and leeks.
- Carrots and leeks grown together will discourage carrot fly and onion fly. Carrots are good to grow after flax, which loosens the soil. A combination of onion, lettuce, and carrot makes an excellent early bed.
- Corn combines well with beans, squash, and cucumbers.
- Cucumbers grow well with corn and lettuce.
- Herbs make good companions for all vegetables. Stinging nettle increases the volatile oils of mints.
- Kohlrabi grows well with beets and onions.
- Leek grows best with celeriac or celery because both like potash fertilizer and require the same amount of care. Wood ashes, composted pig manure, or a mulch of bracken fern provide K.
- Lettuce does well when interplanted with carrots, radishes, strawberries, or cucumbers.
- Onions are good with beets, lettuce, beans, and any member of the carrot family.
- Peas grow well with radishes, carrots, cucumbers, spinach, and turnips.
- Potatoes benefit from beans, cabbage, and peas. A border of horseradish and hemp is beneficial for them.
- Radish likes nasturtium, chervil, and peas.
- Spinach grows well with strawberries.
- Swiss chard can be interplanted with cabbage and endives.
- Tomatoes like New Zealand spinach, parsley, and basil as a ground cover. They also grow well near a row of asparagus.
- Turnips grow well with peas.
Some plants do not make good companions. The vegetable Florence fennel is unsocial and likes to have the bed all for itself, although I have grown good carrots among the fennel. Carrots do not like dill. Onions do not go well with peas and beans. Potatoes become stunted when sunflowers or Jerusalem artichokes are grown with them, and they do not like cucumbers.
Surprisingly enough, often what tastes good together when cooked into a meal also makes for good companion planting. For example, good food or planting combinations are beans and savory; beets and onions; cabbage and dill; carrots and leeks; corn and beans (succotash) or peas; tomatoes and parsley or basil; lettuce with carrots, onions, and radishes; horseradish and potatoes. Of course, this rule, like so many other rules in gardening, cannot be absolutized.
Intercropping
Intercropping is similar to companion planting in that several species are planted into the same bed, but the purpose is less that of mutual symbiotic effects than that of maximum utilization of garden space. A main crop, such as cabbage, bush beans, squash, etc. that takes a long time to mature is interplanted with quick-growing, quick-maturing crops, such as loose-leaf lettuce, kohlrabi, radishes, garden cress, or spinach. The secondary crop will be harvested before the main crops spread out to fill the space, or they are hoed into the ground as green manure. Another kind of intercropping is practiced when a tall growing crop is grown with a low, crawling plant that will provide ground cover, or living mulch. For example, cucumbers can be grown among corn, New Zealand spinach or nasturtiums under tomatoes, or squash under pole beans.
The staggering of crops refers to sowing or planting the same species at different times of the year, such as lettuce, peas, or radishes, which can be sown out every month before it gets too hot. This can be worked into a system of intercropping and companion planting.
The gardener must keep good records in his or her diary of each of these sowings, in order to work out the best combinations and rotations for one's particular situation.
Crop Rotation
Just as companion planting is in keeping with the natural plant associations, so crop rotation makes use of the principle of natural plant succession. A landslide or a freshly bulldozed plot will quickly be settled by fleabane, nightshade, docks, mulleins, Queen Anne's lace, and other annual and biennial pioneer plants. They are first-aid plants, holding the soil and keeping it from being washed or blown away, working much like scar tissue on a body. Next in the succession are the tightly matted thorns and brambles guarding the ground, warning us, Sorry, you can not go through here now, but, here, don't be angry, have some berries!
Amidst the shade and protection of the brambles, trees make a start, quick-growers like willows and cottonwoods, or, in drier areas, Manzanita and sugar pine. Many decades later the climax forest reestablishes itself if nature is left to itself. Such is a natural succession as one might find in Oregon.
In the garden the induced succession is not as elaborate but it, too, follows its own natural laws involving crops and weeds. Abundance of nasty weeds, or of a singular species of weed, tells us that the soil has been treated one-sidedly. Weeds are a sign that the earth wants a change to redress whatever imbalance there is in the soil. Lamb's quarters will take over land that is tired of potatoes, for instance. A season of weeds makes a good fallow to restore balance, a practice made use of in the three-field system of the Middle Ages.
There are several rotational plans that may be followed by the gardener. One is to identify the heavy feeders, consisting mainly of leaf crops (i.e., cabbage, lettuce, Swiss chard, spinach, celery, leeks, corn, cucumbers, squash, and nightshades such as tomatoes, eggplant, peppers); the soil improvers, consisting of nitrogen-fixing legumes (peas, beans, broad, or fava beans); and the light feeders, consisting mainly of root crops (carrots, beets, parsnips, Hamburg parsley, rutabaga, turnips, onions, Jerusalem artichokes). The rotational cycle starts with heavy feeders planted in freshly fertilized soil (compost in Stage II or III). After they are harvested the soil is given a rest with a leguminous crop, which fiberizes the soil and restores some of the nitrogen. Then the light feeders may be sown in, with a dressing of very ripe compost (Stage III), to complete the cycle. A weed fallow, or a crop of completely unrelated plants such as a bee pasture of scorpion weed (
Another plan of rotation is similar but starts from different considerations. In order that the entire four-fold plant finds expression in the garden so that the four ethers are harmoniously balanced, one should plant root, leaf, flower, and fruit-seed crops. A bed starts out in the first season with leaf crops which are mainly heavy feeders, followed by flowers, which are beautiful and easy on the soil, followed by seed and fruit crops, including legumes, and, finally, in the fourth season, followed by root crops, which include most of the light feeders. In essence this method is not much different from the first one mentioned, though it may be easier to remember.
One more consideration enters the planning of functional rotations. One must know the plant families to which the crops belong, so that members of the same family are not planted on top of one another. Family members tend to have the same nutritional needs and would wear the soil one-sidedly if planted in succession. It is surprising that out of the many thousands of plant families, only a mere dozen or so have chosen to let themselves be cultivated.
Weeds
Like the insects, weeds have caused a lot of thoughtless reactions—providing targets, for instance, for misplaced fixations about cleanliness. Some gardeners
are fanatic about keeping weeds out of the garden, as though they were dread enemies and use strong herbicides that not only wreck the garden ecology, but prove to be adverse to human health as well. This paranoid attitude even finds its way into the literature where, for instance, it is written of the sheep sorrel (
Sheep sorrel is a communist. It waves the red flag wherever it moves in and it moves in wherever it finds the democratic grasses struggling against adverse conditions. Small though it is, its snakelike rootstalks crawl under and among the grass roots and send up new
redsamong the grass bunches.
Often a xenophobic attitude is revealed, as when a naturalist writes of noxious weeds as aliens that have been naturalized. These aliens must be dealt with in a drastic way, for they are suspected of harboring plant pests, lowering the economic value of the crops; their rank growth and unsightliness
is a perpetual nuisance in turf,
they are a safety hazard, poisonous, and cause hay fever. The latter was taken from a popular textbook on horticulture.
What are weeds when viewed objectively? They are the primary succession of plants where the soil has been disturbed. Usually they are followed by grasses or brambles. They are indicators of poor soil, showing the observant gardener that his or her soil is becoming too acidic, too poor, too compacted, or too alkaline. Weeds do not, for instance, drive the grass out of a pasture; they merely come in and fill the gap when the soil will no longer support the grass. Thus, weeds are symptoms and not causes of our problems. Spraying for weeds is, again, putting the cart before the horse. Weeds will appear in abundance only if the conditions are right; the seeds lay dormant in the soil until such a time. For example, the fireweed and some fleabanes sprout only after a fire has gone over the ground, others germinate when the land has been ploughed, and some germinate only when there are specific planetary constellations. Analyses of soil in fields have shown that a square foot of soil down to the depth of plowing may contain 7,000 viable seeds representing a number of species.
These seeds are waiting for specific conditions before they will grow. By maintaining good soil husbandry, these weeds need not be a problem at all. If the soil does go out of kilter, it might even be a good idea to include a fallow of weeds to restore a balance of the soil organisms and soil nutrients.
Joseph Cocannouer, in Weeds: Guardians of the Soil, speaks of weeds as a blessing in disguise. Weeds are deep rooters; they explore the depths, breaking through the plow sole so that the weaker roots of the domesticated species may follow, providing them with a larger feeding zone. They fiberize the soil, countering compaction. During rainy or windy seasons they hold the soil against erosion. They help bring water to the topsoil by the capillary action of water molecules along their roots. They aid the organisms of the edaphon through exudations and chelates. When harvested, they enrich the compost with minerals and nutrients and in the pasture they provide sources of vitamins for livestock, resulting in fewer veterinarian bills. Following the lead of F. C. King, Cocannouer suggests letting select weeds grow in the garden to serve as mother weeds
for domesticated crops. Mother weeds, such as sow thistle, lamb's-quarters, annual nightshade, ground cherry, or ragweed, will let the roots of the domesticates grow alongside into the deeper horizons, making water and nutrients available to them. Other weeds can be hoed and left on the soil as green manure, while still other weeds, such as purslane and chickweed, will provide living mulch for the taller crop plants.
According to Alan Chadwick, healthy weeds, properly managed, create an aura of vigor and health in the garden. He sows a mixture of fava, vetch, sonchus (or sow thistle), rye, senecio (or groundsel), anagallis (or scarlet pimpernel), veronica, plantain, and others mixed in with his cover crops.
According to Robert Rodale, there is experimental evidence that weeds act as insect controlling factors. In a South American study it was shown that weeds among corn reduce the leafhopper by 40 to 53 percent and the cutworms by 68 percent. This, of course, involves the principle of companion plants.
Weeds also aid the soil fauna. Dying root and leaf parts feed the earthworms and the channels left by the deeper roots provide passage tunnels for the earthworms as they travel from the higher to the lower horizons of the soil.
Bargyla Rateaver and Gylver Rateaver list the following companion plant effects in their Organic Method Primer:
- Weeds that are soil improvers because they either absorb excess salts and bind them organically or fiberize the soil include goldenrod, nightshade, ragweed, purslane, and shepherd's purse.
- Weeds that hold the soil against erosion include ragweed, pigweed, and clovers.
- Weeds that attract earthworms and aid the soil with root exudates include stinging nettle, plantain, dandelion, and thistles.
- Other weeds work directly as companion plants, such that bindweed helps corn; nettle and yarrow improve the volatile oils in herbs; jimson weed helps pumpkin; lamb's-quarters and sow thistle aid cucumbers and melons; mustard is good under grapes; dandelion helps strawberries; nettles aid the tomatoes; pigweed (amaranth) is good with all nightshades (potato, pepper, eggplant, and tomato); purslane is a good mulch for corn; and sow thistle, yarrow, dead nettle, and valerian are good for all vegetables in general.
Thus it makes good sense to know one's weeds and use them in a dynamic way. It is mainly during the spring sowing that the germinating weeds must be kept in check, so that they do not smother the crop plants. Working the soil about two weeks before planting, letting the weeds sprout, then cultivating again before sowing the vegetable seeds is the best way to accomplish this. Regular hoeing during the early growing season and hand picking within the rows will keep the weeds down between the rows. After the cultivated varieties are strong enough, one can mulch and the weeds should not be a problem. If they are a problem, then the soil is most likely one-sided in an unhealthy way. The few weeds that make it despite should be welcomed as mother weeds or possibly as edible greens. Grasses, which form a succession to the weeds, must be kept out of the garden, for they feed in the same rooting zone as the domesticated species and can be real competitors.
Instead of chemical warfare, flamethrowers, and hysterical reactions, one can enjoy the weeds and even eat many of them, as Ben Harris suggests in a book called Eat the Weeds. Coconnauer writes that many Native Americans made no linguistic distinctions between weeds and good
plants, so that the women cultivated the weeds
as pot greens and medicines right along with the vegetable crops. The eating of weeds has a long tradition. The stomach and intestinal contents of the Tolland man who was preserved in a Danish bog after having been sacrificed to Odin some 2,000 years ago shows a last meal consisting of a gruel made from barley, linseed, wild flax (
Good, common, edible weeds that are found in most gardens include burdock (
Seeds
Good huswives in summer will save their owne seeds Against the next year, or occasion needs: One see for another, to make an exchange, With fellowly neighbourhood, seemeth not strange.Thomas Tusser, Five Hundreth Points of Good Husbandry, 1573
Now sets do ask watering, with pot or with dish, New sown do not so, if ye do as I wish: Through cunning with dibble, rake mattock and spade, By line, and by level, trim garden is made.Thomas Tusser, 1573
In many instances, it is worth one's while to raise one's own seeds. At the cost of seed in inflationary times, it saves money; but it also brings one closer to an appreciation of the mystery of life as the plant moves into and out of manifestation in continuous rhythms. It is still a miracle how the tiny seed, this little round microcosm, can become the focal point of the forces that build up the stately plant. Some seeds are easy to save, while others are tricky, requiring much skill and patience. Like keeping bees, it is something for which one must almost have a special predilection.
Seed Selection
Pick the very best of the plants, such as the lettuce plant that bolts last, the spinach that has the lushest leaves, the corn that has the first and largest ears, or the cabbage that forms the tightest head. These plants should have been grown on organic, biodynamic soil so that the greatest vitality can assist them and the least amount of seed degenerations results.
Let the seeds ripen on the plants as long as possible. As they are about to mature, paper bags can be tied over the heads to prevent them from being eaten by birds or falling on the ground. The entire stalk is then cut, the seeds shaken off or thrashed in the bag and then winnowed. Some, like peas, beans, and corn, can be left to dry in the shells or husks. Let fleshy fruits, such as tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, or eggplant overripen on the vine, then scrape the seeds out of the fruit, soak for a couple of days in water until they ferment slightly, free the seed from the pulp by washing and rubbing, and then dry on paper blotters or on screens.
Seed potato tubers are usually cut into sections and then planted; each section will form a new plant. Genetically such a new potato plant is a clone of the older plant. If one's potatoes seem to degenerate from season to season, being prone to scabs or other problems, then one might consider letting them sexually reproduce. This would allow a reshuffling of the genes and allow new cosmic impulses to manifest. To do so, one lets the plant flower and extracts the seeds from the berries much as one would with other fleshy fruits, as mentioned above. The potato seeds are planted in the seedbed, where they will produce a relatively small plant with small tubers in the first year. The next year one uses these tubers as seed potatoes. Whatever the outcome, usually one will be surprised. Often the new variety will have a different shape, color, or other characteristic than the parent. Often one is lucky and has a vital new strain of potatoes, adapted to local conditions.
Seed Storage
It is useless to save seeds if one does not label, date, and store them correctly. The seeds should be thoroughly dried and then placed in cool, dry storage, so that they will not become moldy or mildewed. Glass containers (i.e., small jars) or snuff boxes (i.e., Copenhagen lids) that are sealed airtight with wax and contain traces of tobacco, which discourages seed-eating bugs, are the best for storing.
Germination Test
If one would like to be sure that the seeds are viable, especially after long storage, one can do a germination test to determine the germination ratio. Ten to twenty seeds are counted out and then laid on a moist blotter paper or on a sheet of cotton and covered. The number of seeds that sprout versus the number that are dead gives the percentage of the germination ratio. For example, if one out of twenty does not germinate, the ratio is 95 percent, and if only ten out of twenty sprout, the ratio is obviously only 50 percent. From this percentage, one can determine if it is worth sowing the seed out, or how thickly one must sow for an even stand.
Some seeds are quick sprouters, such as cress, beans, sunflowers, mustards, lettuce, and most members of the brassica family. Slow sprouters include most of the umbellifers (carrots, parsnips, parsley, celery, turnip-rooted chervil), New Zealand spinach, and most herbs. These can take from three weeks to over a month to germinate.
Most vegetable seeds sprout soon after they have been dried; some, however, have to be cured for some time before they will germinate. The umbellifers need at least a month before they are ready to grow, and the germination ratio of red beets and Swiss chard is increased if the seeds are stored for a couple of years.
Some seeds, such as many weed species, might not sprout and grow even when moisture, temperature, and soil conditions are right. This is known as seed dormancy. Dormancy might be caused by chemical inhibitors, which have to wear off the coat (they prevent tomatoes and squash from sprouting while within the fruit); it might be related to lunar and planetary positions as suggested by Maria Thun for many weeds; it might need the corrosive effect of a symbiotic fungus on the seed coat; or the seed might need to go through a cold period before it germinates. Some weed seeds last for several decades in this way while buried in the soil.
seed viability
Is it necessary to grow seeds or to buy them in a store each year? No, some seeds have very long viability. For example, one can keep cucumber and endive seeds for over ten years; celery and celeriac seed lasts seven to eight years; beets, eggplant, melons, and squash last six years before the germination ratio starts to drop off; most cabbages (including cauliflower, kohlrabi, broccoli, and kale), lettuce, pumpkin, spinach, and turnips are viable up to five years; asparagus, carrot, mustard, pepper, and tomato last for four years; beans, leeks, parsley, and peas can be stored for three years; and it is best to replenish corn, onions, oyster plants, and parsnips every other year.
Hybrids
For raising one's own seeds, unless one is really fanatic about it, it is best to use standard varieties, which will breed true. Hybrids contain latent and recessive genes, which become manifest in the next generation, so that at least three-fourths of the next crop will deviate considerably from what one expects.
Nowadays most seed companies have been taken over and are owned by international oil or pharmaceutical companies, even though some have kept their traditional names. The consequence of this is that many locally adapted varieties' seeds have disappeared and that the vegetable species have an ever-diminishing genetic basis. Of course, these seed corporations are interested that the farmer or gardener becomes dependent on them to buy their seeds anew each year. They create this dependence with hybrids and with so-called terminator
seeds, which are genetically programmed to self-destruct. To be independent and self-sufficient it is a good idea to grow one's own seed, as farmers and gardeners have done for centuries. Local seed swap groups, garden clubs, and organizations like the Seed Saver's Exchange are a good source of various untreated, non-GMO varieties.
Pollination
Pollination comes about when the haploid pollen combines with the haploid gametes of the female flower (gynoecium) to form a new diploid seed. Wind and insects pollinate some plants, while others are self-pollinating. Self-pollinated vegetables include tomatoes, beans, peas, and corn, which makes it extremely easy to save seed from them, because they tend to come out true and they are not easily cross-pollinated. Lettuce tends to self-pollinate but can be crossed with a nearby wild growing, tough, spiny compass plant or wild lettuce (
Peppers must be watched because the sweet peppers can cross with the hot peppers. Cucumbers, melons, and cantaloupes will not cross, but different species of squash and pumpkins, both of the genus
Collecting Seed from Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials
Annuals complete their life cycle and produce seed within a single season's span. Annuals include beans, peas, corn, fava bean, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, cucumbers, melons, squash, lettuce, spinach, rocket, radish, Chinese cabbage, broccoli, orache, cress, and New Zealand spinach.
Biennials, on the other hand, like cabbages, carrots, parsnips, celery, or burdock, take two seasons to produce seed. The first year's growth is vegetative, producing a food storage organ; a winter rest-period intervenes before the seed formation occurs in the second year at the end of which the plant dies. In tropical countries where there is no winter freeze, the plants will remain in their vegetative state and not flower and go to seed. In the relatively mild climate of the Northwest coastal region, chosen biennial plants can be left in the ground over the winter and let to go to seed the next summer. In climates with cold, icy winter, these plants must be carefully removed from the field and put into cold storage by being packed into peat moss and put into a root cellar; in the spring they can be replanted and allowed to go into flower. Fennel and oyster plant often make seed in the first year. It is best, however, to obtain seeds for the next crop from those plants that have gone through the biennial cycle.
Perennials live more than two years and often need permanent beds. They include asparagus, chives, dahlias, garlic, Good King Henry, hops (young shoots make an excellent spring vegetable), Jerusalem artichoke, some onion varieties (such as the Chinese onion or Japanese scallion), sorrel, seakale, skirrett, and others; eggplant and potatoes are also perennials, as are strawberries, fruit trees, and berry bushes.
Other Means of Propagation
Not all plants in the garden are propagated by means of seeds. With potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes, tubers are cut and the eyes planted to produce the next season's crops. With strawberries and many herbs such as nettle, mints, or tansy, runners are cut and replanted; while for others, such as comfrey, horseradish, valerian, or rhubarb, cuttings of the roots multiply the number of plants.
Plants
In order to appreciate fully the reasons for various bio-dynamic practices we have to build up a rather more vivid concept of plants than is customary in conventional thought. They are usually regarded as mechanisms subject only to the same laws as hold good in a physics or chemistry laboratory or in the working of a machine. People seem to be so dazzled by the brilliance of the research into such things as the genetic code and single cell metabolism and by the ideas put forward to explain them, that certain vital more holistic aspects have been overlooked. Each new discovery, though it may appear to provide an answer to a question, more often than not poses further questions. The frontier of the unknown may be pushed back a little, but it remains as impenetrable as ever. Although the processes of growth, reproduction and decay are all deemed to be controlled by various communication networks which switch genes on and off, one is still left with the old Latin conundrum,
Let us begin by comparing a rock or a crystal with a plant, and for the sake of simplicity we will take an annual plant—it is not too difficult to apply the same concepts to perennials or even to trees. To make the imagination more realistic we might choose at random a definite mineral, say quartz, and a definite plant, say a broad bean. On the one hand the quartz crystal gives us the strong impression that its shape, its beautiful form, has been imposed on it by influences coming from outside; it is a piece of finished work, and can only be changed by some external physical force. The form of the bean plant on the other hand, though just as beautiful in its own way, has quite a different quality; it is never precisely the same from one moment to another, and this continuous change arises from out of itself. What we see at any given time is like one frame of a long ciné film comprising a rhythmic pattern of development, fruition and decay. Even this pattern does not quite represent the whole broad bean which has connections with all past generations and also with the generations still to come. Instead of a static entity like the crystal, we have in the bean plant a centre or focus of highly organised activities. Together with a few of today's leading biologists, we are almost irresistibly led to postulate the supersensible presence of a body of organising formative forces: Rudolf Steiner called this the etheric body. Just as any separate piece of matter has a centre of gravity derived from the whole gravity field of the earth, so every living creature acquires an etheric body derived from the earth's etheric field; this has been described by H. Poppelbaum as a morphogenetic field and can be seen as the link between material manifestation and the higher spiritual worlds beyond. This whole complex of activity, this weaving, vibrant, pulsating essence
as Rudolf Steiner put it, is the sphere in which homoeopathic remedies and substances in very high dilutions are effective.
The etheric body of an individual plant could perhaps be seen as the switchboard operator which earlier we failed to find. It interprets the general pattern of the particular plant and modifies or adapts it to fit into the individual niches in which single specimens are growing. It heals any wounds which may occur, and reacts in the most favourable way to any changes, physical or supersensible, earthly or cosmic, which may take place in the environment. The patterns themselves, the ciné films
, have their home in the next spiritual plane above the etheric, usually known as the astral.
Continuing our imagination of the bean plant, let us now look at a plant as it stands with its roots reaching down into the earth, its leaves spread to receive the incoming cosmic stream, its flowers opening up to the heavens and to the insect world. Just as the roots merge almost imperceptibly into the soil, into the element earth and water, so leaves and blossoms with their continual interchange of substances can be thought of as merging with the elements air and fire (warmth). The former feel the pulse of the earth's rhythms, the latter connect with the influences of the starry world, with the circling paths of the planets. Selflessly each individual plant passes through time, performing its own special part as a member of the plant kingdom in the cosmic task of giving. Through photosynthesis plants remove carbon dioxide from the air and give out oxygen in its place for the benefit of the earth as a whole and for man and animal in particular. They give their substance in various forms for the nourishment of man and animal including the insects. Some give themselves as healers, some, as we shall shortly see, are there merely to help other plants growing near them. A few, like some rare human beings, create an atmosphere of wellbeing by their mere presence. But whatever people with electrical gadgets and boiling prawns may say, plants have no direct feelings of pleasure and pain like animals or men; they have no organs for such experiences. This does not imply that such experiments have been rigged
, but just that they have been misinterpreted. In fact if one takes the concept of an etheric field as valid, it would be surprising if the instruments had not reacted under the circumstances described.
If different plants, say a wheat plant, a cabbage, a carrot and a bean, are grown close together so that the roots of each have access to the same soil conditions, if they are subsequently burnt and their ashes analysed chemically, it is quite remarkable how the proportions of the chemical elements in the various ashes are entirely different. Though the amounts will vary slightly according to the soil, the patterns are just as characteristic for each species as are the leaf and floral forms. A plant can select what it needs from the soil in which it is growing, always provided that its needs are there in the first place. There are, however, exceptions. On the one hand, if the soil solution has been affected by the application of soluble fertilisers, the plants may be forced to take up more of certain elements than they require, and their whole metabolism may then be so disrupted that they become sitting targets for pathogenic organisms. On the other hand, some species of plants have as their special function in Nature's household the collection of some one or other of the chemical elements out of the atmosphere. This phenomenon can be seen as a kind of depotentisation
—the opposite of potentising—for it seems (contrary to current dogma) that we are surrounded by matter in what E. Lehrs calls its imponderable state
, or in
Experiments on somewhat similar lines were conducted in the former Soviet Union. They grew maize and a type of bean together in mixed stands. On some plots they persuaded the bean to fix
a radioactive isotope of nitrogen, and by means of a Geiger counter they very soon found some of this nitrogen in the maize plants. On other plots they sprayed the maize foliage with radioactive phosphate and before long it had found its way into the beans. So it seems that plants not only draw nutrients out of the soil solution, but that they are also able to contribute to this solution for the benefit of plants of other species. Thus a pool of nutrients is created in the soil by the plants growing on it: if their species are diverse and well mixed, the pool will be rich; but in a monoculture or with incompatible species the pool will be nonexistent. These facts shed an interesting light on companion planting, and may also give us cause to revise our ideas about weeds: perhaps they are not so universally bad as is usually supposed.
From our picture of a plant standing between heaven and earth it is not surprising that sunlight, either direct or obscured by cloud, has a very strong influence on the way in which a plant develops its inherent qualities. Everybody knows how root crops stored in a dark cellar produce elongated, rather shapeless shoots and tiny leaves quite devoid of colour. This is of course an extreme case, but it does indicate how closely plant nature and light nature are interwoven. Some plant species, particularly those belonging to the lower orders such as ferns and mosses, are attuned to cool, shady conditions; but others requiring full sunlight will languish when shaded by taller companions. These facts will influence the planning of a garden and care needs to be taken that taller vegetables do not unduly restrict shorter neighbours; orientating the rows north and south will help to solve this difficulty.
Even more important for the growth of many annuals and perennials is the seasonal effect of longer and shorter days. Some plants need a long day before they can form flower buds, others must have short days. For instance, beetroot bolts if sown too early. Apart from the length of day there are other more subtle differences in the quality of the sun's light according to the constellation of the zodiac in which it is standing at any given time. It is at present difficult to specify these effects for practical planning, but they should always be borne in mind when trying to assess the reasons for unexpected phenomena. Perhaps it is something of this nature which renders groundsel and some other common weeds very susceptible to rust diseases after the middle of August. All this points to the desirability of sowing annual crops so that they mature in their proper season. We have so many plants at our disposal covering the whole year that it is rather unnecessary to try to grow any of them out of season; it is senseless to complain of lack of success, of pest and disease attacks, if one does attempt to do this.
Trees fall into a category rather different from annual and herbaceous plants. One feature, as Grohmann so clearly points out, is that the side shoots of an annual are arranged in a pattern determined by its phyllotaxis; the branches of a tree spring from the trunk in patterns quite unrelated to the succession of its leaves on the twigs. The forms created by the branches are characteristic of each individual species, a fact which can be noted with great interest in winter when the deciduous trees have shed their leaves. The whole development of trees takes place in their own special milieu of formative forces.
From an imaginative point of view it is possible to regard the trunks of trees with their main branches as raised mounds of soil, each leaf-bearing shoot and twig being a separate plantlet growing out of this enhanced kind of earth. This is not the place to go more deeply into the idea.
In any general account of plant life as seen from the bio-dynamic standpoint it is perhaps fitting to conclude with a description of Goethe's far-reaching observation, conducted over many years and brought to fruition in his Metamorphosis of Plants. He was inspired to this study when he asked himself the questions, How do we know that an object in front of our gaze is a plant? What are its essential characteristics? He felt that there must be some universal underlying pattern behind the form and development of every plant species. Contrary to the common practice of starting with the lowest type of plants from which the higher orders are supposed to have evolved, he took his stand at the outset on the higher flowering plants, and saw the lower orders as less successful strivings towards the higher goal. He eventually found the secret in the green leaf with a node at its base. He saw how in many plants the leaves develop from the shapeless cotyledons of the seed, gradually exhibiting their particular form and then withdrawing it as flowering approaches: buttercups and delphiniums are especially good for studying this phenomenon. In other plants the leaf shape is more or less constant from the start. After this display, or sometimes concurrent with it, the leaf forms contract and gather together to make the calyx for the flower. There is an expansion as the blooms open out followed by a contraction into the floral organs, anthers and ovaries; but the latter are in fact metamorphosed leaves. One example which led Goethe to this latter conclusion was the comparatively common sight of a small leaf appearing instead of an anther in the flower of a wild rose. After fertilisation another expansion occurs as the fruit and seeds begin to swell; but the carpels enclosing the seeds are again metamorphosed leaves, a fact which is often obvious when picking peas—the leaves look like pods.
Thus Goethe's archetypal plant arose in his mind's eye—expansion into leaf, contraction into flower bud, expansion into flower, contraction into floral organs, expansion into seed and fruit and a final contraction into the ripened seed. This Ur-plant is not to be seen as a physical primaeval ancestor from which the whole plant kingdom has descended, but is a fundamental pattern in the world beyond the senses, and into it there can flow an infinite number of forms and rhythms to produce different species in the physical world. In the lower plant orders parts of the pattern are omitted or coalesce. Rudolf Steiner developed this theme further to include the root, and glimpses of his adaptations are to be found throughout Agriculture. This theme has been extensively elaborated by G. Grohmann who has shown in what ways the lower plant orders—gymnosperms, ferns, mosses and so on—can be seen as less successful strivings towards a more perfect goal.
The Primal Plant, or Ur-Plant
On a journey through the Swiss Alps and into Italy, Goethe noticed that plants of the same species, which grew in his home country, looked so different that one could be deceived into thinking one had a different species before one's eyes. (We can follow up the same observation if we take a plant such as plantain or dandelion, observe it growing with thin, pointed leaves on the dry hillsides, and compare it to when it grows succulently and fleshy in the moist lowlands.) These observations led Goethe to develop the concept of a primal plant, or Ur-plant, as a basic theme that is played in a number of variations according to the circumstances. These circumstances, the various formative forces in nature, radically modify the plant's expression. This Ur-plant is not a phylogenetic or prehistoric prototype but is present in all living plants. It is the appropriate idea that underlies the phenomena of all plants in their ever-changing variation. Whereas the various manifestations are apprehended by the external senses, the Ur-plant is perceived by the mind. Both the empirical plant and the Ur-plant belong together to give us the whole plant.
Various elemental forces modify the manifestation of the Ur-plant. The physiognomy of the empirical plant as it grows shows us what elemental and formative forces are at work, on one hand, but shows us the idea of the plant ever-anew on the other hand. As the plant moves from seed to leaf to flower and fruit and back to seed, it is always changing, always in the process of becoming, of expressing its being, which is only comprehended by the inner senses. In characterizing the Ur-plant, Goethe sees the leaf as its basic organ, which goes through its various stages of metamorphosis from contraction to expansion, ever-changing and ever the same.
Thoughts like these lead the biodynamic gardener to the conclusion that if crops are not doing well, growing stunted and subject to disease, the fault lies not so much within the plants themselves. It is the effect of various forces that work upon the plant, the combination of formative forces and vectors such as the mineral substratum, water, light, and warmth that give the idea of the plant its concrete manifestation.
It is through understanding the idea of the archetypal plant, the Ur-plant, which unfolds into various manifestations, that Goethe could assert that the laws of mechanics are all right for the inorganic world, but for the world of living organisms, other laws are at work. He delineated three laws that characterize living organisms, plants in particular. They are the laws of dynamic polarity, metamorphosis, and intensification.
- Law of Polarity
-
The law of polarity shows that one of the major characteristics of plants is their dualistic nature. From the seed the plant grows geocentrically into the soil and heliocentrically into the air. Nowhere is something similar to be found in inorganic nature. The plant responds to the polarities of the day and night, winter and summer, waxing and waning moon. Polarity is found in the
male
andfemale
flowers, in the round,cosmic
bud and the extendedterrestrial
leaf. Wherever one looks into the realm of organic nature, the archetypal polarities manifest themselves, such as in the green chlorophyll molecules and the red hemoglobin molecules, which are perfect mirror images of each other except that the hemoglobin has an iron radical where the chlorophyll has a magnesium radical attached. A fascinating polarity exists between the plant and the butterfly. Do the eggs not correspond to the seeds; the quick growing, segmented caterpillar to the quick-growing shoot that is segmented from node to node; then just as the plant folds itself into a flower bud, so does the caterpillar spin itself into a pupa to emerge in radiant color as a butterfly as the flower bud blooms into a flower. The butterfly's proboscis fits perfectly the flower chalice; and just as the one dies to lay eggs, the other fades to make seeds. Each step is thus exquisitely matched, as though one were watching a beautiful dance.In a meditative approach to gardening, the biodynamic gardener will look for such harmonies and symmetries, think of the roots when looking at leaf and flower, think of the opposites that make up the complete picture.
- Law of Metamorphosis
-
Living organisms do not grow by processes of mechanical addition or construction like erector sets. They grow in pulsating rhythms, at certain points reaching a crescendo and continuing at a qualitatively different pace. Consider an ordinary weed. Who can predict, upon seeing the mere little seed, what kind of plant it will become? The seed does not just turn into a bigger and bigger seed, but it radically changes, metamorphoses; it breaks open, sends out a rootlet and two cotyledons. Again, the appearance of regular leaves could not have been predicted from studying the cotyledons. As new leaves form at the internodes, they remain pretty much similar, only being broader and rounder at the base and finer, more laced and pointed the higher the plant grows. Then, suddenly, another unpredictable change occurs: the leaves totally metamorphose, turning into a corona of petals and sepals. Finally, yet another metamorphosis occurs in the fruiting and the creation of a new set of seeds. These metamorphoses occur rhythmically and in relation to terrestrial and cosmic factors. None of the states are deductible from the previous level of organization. Each time a completely new set of phenomena appears, yet they are all part of the same plant organism passing into ever new manifestation.
The biodynamic gardener can watch if the metamorphoses are occurring in a normal fashion in his or her plants, or whether these processes occur too fast as in the shooting into seed of some plants, or too slowly as in delayed ripening. It becomes a heuristic exercise to study different plants in their characteristic development. Comparing the different brassica-varieties, we see that kohlrabi is really an exaggerated stem, broccoli and cauliflower are in the floral stage, and collards and kales are fixated in the leaf stage, head cabbages are really overgrown terminal buds, etc. Each manifests a stage within the whole metamorphic range of the Brassica oleraceae. Onions like to hover in the bud stage. Oak galls are a
fruit
induced by the sting of a wasp. The examples can go on forever. - Law of Increment or of Enhancing Intensification
-
The law of increment or of enhancing intensification is another characteristic of organic life discussed by Goethe. In the mechanical, inorganic world systems wear down. The more energy is taken out, the less there is; parts wear out and depletion results. In the inorganic, physical world the second law of thermodynamics holds true. This is at the base of so much thinking in agriculture today: regarding weeds as competitors with the crops, insects as leaks in the energy system, fearing that the NPK continuously depletes and must be replaced as one would do with a mechanism. Goethe saw nature in a different light. Life is not just wearing down and depleting, but it is building itself up and creating energy at the same time. The more life there is, the more life it can support. On a farm, for example, the more varied the number and kind of organisms are, the better the ecosystem will sustain itself. Maintaining a complex ecosystem is part of the reason for companion planting, for controlled use of weeds, for not getting hysterical about a few bugs, and for circulating animal manures within the system. There is a mazeway of subtle interaction and mutual support among all the organisms in such a farm, such that insets and weeds will not be a problem and overall vitality and quality will be enhanced.6 Contrary to the thought of some radical vegetarians, livestock, in the right number, are not competitors with man for a limited amount of vegetation; instead they are valuable symbionts enhancing growth and health of the vegetation. By comparison, farms and gardens that practice monoculture create imbalances that will deplete the regenerative and enhancing potentials, will wear out the soil, and will experience weeds and bugs as competitors and incur heavy damage from them. We see here the mechanistic attitude turn into a self-fulfilling prophecy.
Top Fruit
This section only deals with fruit trees in a small garden or in a larger one which could accommodate 20–25 trees mainly for home use. Although many of the basic principles discussed apply equally to a commercial orchard, conditions are rather different as regards labour, equipment, management and so on. For instance, a little scab on home-grown apples is not of much consequence, but a commercial grower must take extra precautions against it. Again, high yield is of prime importance commercially, but for the home more attention can be given to flavour and keeping quality.
Starting from scratch, the first step is to decide what varieties to grow in order to keep up a supply for as long a period as possible, Early maturing varieties of apple, for example, are at their best when eaten more or less straight off the tree and deteriorate rapidly if stored; others will have lost their flavour by Christmas. Plums of course cannot be stored, and pears require very special conditions of storage if they are to last for more than a month after picking. Suitability to local conditions is a major factor to consider when making a selection. A reliable nurseryman in the neighbourhood will be able to give good advice, but it might be disastrous to trust the average garden centre. Good advice can usually be obtained from members of the local garden club or horticultural society. Be particularly careful before selecting Cox's Orange Pippin because it often does not thrive from the Midlands northwards. If there is a good nursery within easy reach it is a good plan to go and choose your trees while they are still in the ground: some people recommend putting your name tag on a north (or south) facing branch so that when you come to plant it out you can orientate it in a position to which it has become accustomed. When making a selection it is also important to bear in mind that some varieties are self-sterile—that is, they cannot set any fruit from their own pollen—so it is necessary to plant occasional pollinators. James Grieve is a good apple for this purpose. This aspect loses its significance if there are plenty of trees on adjoining properties.
Types of Tree
Whatever merits may be claimed for fruit harvested from tall spreading apple or pear trees, standard and even half-standard trees are no longer popular and in any case are not really suited to a small or medium-sized garden. The tendency is to favour some type of bush tree or cordons, but fan-trained trees are very useful on south-or west-facing walls and palings. Fans are more suited to peaches, cherries, plums and pears than to apples. In small gardens especially cordons are a boon; they can be planted close together along a border or boundary and provide an opportunity to grow a wide range of varieties in a small space. There are two or three ways of training and pruning bush type trees, but this is not the place to describe them in detail. Trees can be bought as one-year-olds (maidens), or as two-or three-year-olds. In the first case the purchaser has to try to form the framework of his choice and will have to wait longer for his first fruit. Two-year-olds will have the first rudiments of a framework and in three-year-olds the main branching system will be fully developed. Espaliers are also out of favour; they are difficult to train satisfactorily and are very expensive to buy; their place has been taken by cordons.
All fruit trees are budded or grafted onto root stocks of wild or semi-wild species which are themselves propagated vegetatively. Trees grown from seed are seldom true to the parent type and take much longer to come into bearing. In recent years many refinements have been introduced into the production of root stocks and it is now possible to buy trees which will grow to the size required and no further: it was the discovery of a dwarfing
stock which made the cordon a possibility. A reliable nurseryman will advise you on the type of stock that is necessary for your particular needs; he will have the same variety of apple, for instance, grafted onto several different stocks—so make sure you get the right one.
Planting
Most nurserymen lift their stock in November, as soon as most of the leaves have dropped, and this is also the best time to plant out so that the new roots have a chance to develop before the next leaves come out in the spring. It is, however, best to get the holes ready before this, in July or August, to allow for a certain amount of weathering, warming and aeration to take place. The soil removed from the hole when placed in small mounds nearby will also be enlivened. With a spade take out a hole 60 cm (2 ft) square and 45 cm (18 in) deep. If the land is under grass, remove the turf with a few centimetres of soil to a radius of 90 cm (3 ft) round the planting point and stack this separately—it will come in useful for filling the bottom of the hole later on. When digging the hole put the darker-coloured topsoil in one heap, the paler subsoil in another. Square holes are better than round ones because in the latter case there is a tendency for new roots to go round and round the sides of the hole like a flower pot, instead of out into the surroundings. Later on, when applying the autumn spray of 500 to the rest of the garden, keep some for treating the holes and heaps of soil.
The trees should be planted in their holes as soon as possible after receipt from the nursery, but it can be fatal to do this if conditions are very wet or frosty. Either leave them in their packing in a sheltered place or heel them in
until a favourable day occurs. Before planting examine the roots carefully; remove any that are damaged, making a clean cut just behind the damaged part, and shorten any that are too long to go into the hole without bending them. The actual planting is best done with two people on the job, one holding the tree in position, the other filling the hole. First put a thin pole over the centre of the hole to indicate the ground level. It is important to plant the tree at the same depth as in the nursery; shallow planting will leave some of the roots exposed, while deep planting is liable to cover the grafting union, leading to undesirable root formation from the scion and to the danger of rots entering. Loosely tie the upper roots to the trunk above so that they do not get dragged down in the early stages of filling, and put the tree in position. Fill only with topsoil and turf to which some compost should be added at intervals; there is no need to overdo the compost—half a bucketful per hole is enough if the soil is in good heart. On poorer or newly reclaimed land the amount of compost should be increased and two or three handfuls of bonemeal or hoof and horn may be added. Gently firm the soil over the roots as the work proceeds and make sure there are no air gaps left round the tap root. Release the upper roots at the appropriate time. There will not be enough topsoil to fill the hole completely; make up the deficiency from an outside source or by drawing some in from the surroundings, replacing it by spreading the heaped subsoil. Finally, tie the trunk to a stout stake to prevent windrock and apply a mulch over the surface. Make the tie in figure-of-eight form, one loop round the stake and the other round the trunk; an old nylon stocking is very good for the purpose as it is strong and will not chafe the bark. There are, however, advantages if the stake is driven into position first and the tree then planted against it: in this case special care must be taken to see that the soil is packed firmly between stake and tree and that no air pockets are left there.
After-Care
If a row of cordons or a few isolated trees have been planted along a border or close to areas under regular cultivation, there is not much to worry about except to give them an annual mulch in early summer, perhaps with a little compost, and to keep them clear of weeds. Instead of a mulch white clover to supply a little nitrogen can be established as a permanent cover, either from seed or more easily from runners. When a small orchard is being established on open ground, it is possible (perhaps even desirable) to intercrop with vegetables such as potatoes, brassicas and broad beans for a couple of years before planting a permanent sward. The compost and the use of the 500 and 501 sprays given to the vegetables will help the young trees also, but the areas immediately round the trees should be mulched annually. On the other hand a succession of green manure cover crops may be grown, alternating legumes with mustard, rape and rye. Some of the top growth from these will supply material for mulching, the rest being worked in before sowing the next cover. By either of these methods a truly fertile and living soil is made ready to take a permanent sward in the third year. The latter will consist of a mixture of grasses and clovers sown in late summer or early autumn; its exact composition of species will vary according to local conditions.
If planting has been done on meadow land, it is advisable to keep the cleared rings cultivated for a year or two with mulches and some compost. The mulch will be supplied by cutting the grass and this should be done two or three times a year, just before the grasses come into flower. Young grass and other herbage is much richer in nitrogen than any which has flowered. Spray the whole area with 500 in spring and autumn, and with 501 at least once in early summer when the young tree branchlets are in full growth. In all cases, after planting new fruit trees make a firm resolve not to allow any fruit to develop in the first year; pinch out all fruit buds as soon as they appear. It is also wise to limit fruiting in the second year.
Pruning
For detailed descriptions of the various methods of pruning the reader, if inexperienced, is advised to consult one of a number of excellent books or manuals. A few general remarks, however, may not be out of place here. Most fruit trees if left to themselves will develop far too many long and spindly growths, with the result that there will eventually be a lot of poor quality undersized fruit because they have been starved of air and light. The aim is to obtain a compact shape with evenly spaced branches carrying plenty of fruiting spurs. For summer pruning especially it is best to choose a period of waning moon for the work, a time when the plant sap is not rising so strongly. This is not so important for the main pruning carried out during late autumn, when the trees have lost their leaves and have gone into a dormant period. Whenever wood that is more than two years old is cut out, the wounds must be treated against the possible entry of fungi; although commercial products are satisfactory for this purpose, the fruit tree paste is better because it stimulates the cambium to cover the wound more quickly. Another point not usually mentioned in the text books is the following. When a young growth is shortened back to an outer bud, it often happens that the next bud below it develops into an unwanted side growth. The remedy is to nick out this bud with the point of a secateur blade or thumbnail, thus diverting energy into the wanted fruit buds lower down.
Tree Paste
Rudolf Steiner likens the trunk of a tree to an elongated mound of soil, hollowed out in the centre. It is not therefore altogether surprising that something akin to a soil treatment is recommended for the trunks and main branches of fruit trees. This consists of applying a paste made up to the following formula:
1 part dried blood 2 parts kieselguhr (diatomite, a form of organic silica) 3 parts clay 4 parts cowdung
It is not necessary to adhere strictly to these proportions; they are a rough guide and in fact the dried blood, though desirable, is not absolutely essential. If kieselguhr is quite unobtainable, very fine sand may be substituted. Any kind of pottery clay can be used; alternatively one may be able to get it from garden subsoil, from a new roadside cutting or perhaps from a local brickworks, depending on circumstances. As the clay has to be kneaded and worked into a slurry, a lot of hard work is saved if it can be found in an already finely divided state. The clay has a threefold purpose: it acts as a sticking agent for the paste, it seals up small crevices in which insect nuisances may be lurking, and it is a mediator between the cosmic and earthly forces. The slurry is made either with rain water, stirred 500, dilute equisetum tea or very dilute liquid manure. A mixture of the last two has much to recommend it. Having prepared the clay slurry, the dung is then worked in with the other ingredients. The dung should not be very fresh, so it will have to be obtained from a manure heap or by collecting pats two to four weeks old from a meadow where cattle have been grazing. A final refinement is to add pinches of the compost preparations 502–6 with a few drops of 507. More liquid may have to be added to bring the consistency to that of porridge made with fine oatmeal. Before putting the paste onto the trees, work over them with a wire brush to remove any loose bark, lichens or moss which may be present. Put on old clothes as some splashing is inevitable, especially if dealing with old standard trees. Apply the paste liberally with a whitewash brush, working quickly from the top without any attempt at artistic effects. The work is best done in late autumn, but any time in non-frosty weather up to the end of March is satisfactory.
Treatment of Mature Trees
Once trees in an established sward have come into bearing there is very little to be done in the way of soil treatments. The trunks should be kept clear of vegetation to a radius of 23–30 cm (9–12 in). The sward can be kept close cut with a rotary mower, in which case the cut grass is left where it lies to rot down and provide worm food. If allowed to grow longer it will have to be cut with a scythe and the hay is either used as a mulch or removed for composting with other material for eventual return to the orchard. The mulch may be applied in circles round the trees just below the ends of the outer branches where most of the feeding roots are working. Another method is to rake the grass into straight rows in the root feeding area; the second cut can then be placed in rows at right angles to the first. An occasional dressing of compost to the whole area is beneficial, but do not waste it around the bases of the trunks because the active roots there will mostly have died out. Spring and autumn sprays of 500 to the whole area are advisable. Ideally 501 is sprayed three times—first, when the tree has made its first leaves and flower buds are showing, second, when the fruitlets are the size of hazelnuts, and third, when the fruit is beginning to ripen. This is rather a daunting programme for most gardeners unless the times coincide with spraying other crops. The most important spray is the second, but if August is dull and cold the third becomes almost essential if good quality fruit is to be harvested.
Another job when a tree has set a heavy crop is to thin out the fruitlets when about the size of a walnut, but this does not apply to plums and cherries. It has been shown by experiment that one apple to 20 leaves gives the best results; there is no need to count every leaf on the tree, just do it on one or two branchlets to get the right feeling.
Insect Nuisances
When thinning apples, some fruitlets will almost certainly be found to have small holes on the sides with a little brown mess around them. Remove all of these and put them aside separately for burning because they contain a sawfly larva. Removal at this stage prevents a second generation from developing and will save quite a lot of fruit from being spoilt later on. If left alone the attacked fruits will eventually drop off and allow the mature larvae to pupate in the soil. Dropped fruit should also be collected, but it does not take the larva long to emerge when it has reached its goal, so constant attention is necessary. Another rather similar apple and pear nuisance is the codlin moth larva which enters the developing fruit later in the year (midsummer onwards) usually through the eye. It reveals it presence by frass which may be difficult to spot amongst the old sepals, and occasional inspections are advisable. The mature larvae of this species come down the main trunk looking for a secluded place to pupate and hibernate. They can be tempted by tying a roll of corrugated paper 15 cm (6 in) wide three times round the trunk about 60 cm (2 ft) from the ground. The paper is taken off in October and burned. One further apple nuisance is the winter-moth. The females are wingless and so must crawl up the trunk of a tree to lay their eggs on flower buds and young leaves. They can be trapped by putting grease bands on the trunks and any stakes when the codlin moth traps are removed. In both these cases make sure that there are no tall weed stems which can be used as ladders to and from the lower branches. A last but rarer nuisance is the woolly aphis which appears as blobs like cotton-wool on fruit tree trunks. The blobs can be destroyed by applying methylated spirit with a paint brush, and further attacks may be prevented by sowing nasturtiums under the tree.
Diseases
The chief worry for apple growers is scab which appears as small round dark patches on the fruit (and leaves); some varieties are more susceptible than others, Newton Wonder being one of the worst offenders. For a commercial grower such blemished fruit become worthless and he has to undertake a complicated preventive spraying programme which can in fact be achieved by bio-dynamic methods. The home grower, however, need not be unduly troubled because the spots are only skin deep and do not affect the flavour or, more than to a minor degree, the keeping quality. Nevertheless, some precautionary steps are advisable and here again silica in one form or another comes to our aid. A prior necessity is to ensure by good pruning that plenty of light reaches all parts of the tree and that air can circulate freely. The normal sprays of 501 will provide some help. Supplementary treatments include equisetum tea (preparation 508) sprayed on trees and ground soon after fruit has set, perhaps repeated a fortnight later, and a spray of waterglass (sodium silicate) about the beginning of August at the rate of 1 oz. per gallon (10 g per litre). The same solution of waterglass can also be usefully applied to the soil when growth starts in the spring and again in July. These treatments will also help against possible attacks by rust and mildew. It must again be emphasised that the major factor in disease control is a healthy, vigorous microlife in the soil.
With plums, and to a lesser extent other stone fruit, one must always be on the look-out for silver leaf disease which can be a killer. The symptoms are unmistakable: the leaves on some twigs and branches take on a silvery sheen and then sooner or later die. Immediate action is necessary if the tree is to be saved. After cutting out the affected parts, examine the cut carefully and if there is the slightest sign of brown discolouration in the wood, cut back farther until all trace of this has disappeared. Paint the cut with a preservative and burn all the diseased parts at once. The danger of attack by silver leaf is greatly reduced by pruning all stone fruit trees in the summer rather than later in the year. More recently it has been discovered that quite a common micro-organism called
Peach leaf curl is a very common trouble on the young leaves of peaches, nectarines, cherries and almonds. They are invaded by a fungus which causes them to turn crimson and curl up. It is difficult to eradicate completely even by using the latest types of fungicide. Some gardeners have claimed good results after planting garlic round the trees, but this is not a fully reliable treatment. As with most fungus diseases, the seat of the trouble is likely to lie in the soil; so if the disease has been present in the previous year, the first thing to do is to give a loosening cultivation early in the spring when the buds are just beginning to swell. This is followed by regular spraying with equisetum tea (508) every 10–14 days combined with two applications of the waterglass soil treatment.
Fruit-Eating Nuisances
Blackbirds and thrushes must be suffered gladly for their joyful singing and other benefits which they bestow, but they can be restrained from undue avarice in various ways. Sometimes they may merely be thirsty, so see that there is always a bird bath handy for them, especially during dry weather. Early apples always tempt them, but their annoying habit of taking a few pecks from a lot of fruit can be counterd to a certain extent by picking the first damaged fruit and leaving them on the ground; the birds will usually prefer these to sound ones still on the tree. Cherries are very vulnerable, but some branches can be saved by pulling an old nylon stocking over them; if grown fan-trained against a wall they are easily netted. Old nylon stockings, cut into two pieces, are also very effective in thwarting wasps with their aggravating habit of making a small hole just below the stalks of unripe pears: on cordon pears in particular half a stocking can be tied to cover at least one and often two or three fruit. Squirrels are quite impossible to deal with; they rip the stockings off cherry branches and they use a low strawberry net like a trampoline, bouncing it up and down until they can reach the fruit.
Soft Fruit
Sufficient soft fruit for a small family, including jam and bottling, can be obtained from an area of 5 m by 7 m (15 ft by 20 ft). This would take a row of raspberries, three blackcurrants, three gooseberries and two or three red or white currants. Although an area of such a size is about the minimum for giving a complete range, it does allow for planting different varieties of each type to provide a succession for harvesting over a longer period. It should even be possible to fit in a blackberry and a loganberry or tayberry, which is more vigorous, on a framework along the side. Space permitting, any of these items can of course be increased to suit individual needs.
Land for planting soft fruit is prepared in the same way as for top fruit except that growing bushes in a green sward is not recommended. It will get the bushes off to a good start if a bulky green manure crop can be grown during the summer and then worked in during September before planting out in November. Holes are taken out in the same way as described for top fruit, but the operation may have to be delayed until after a green manure crop has had time to decompose. Raspberries will require a trench rather than holes. Do not put a lot of decomposing green material into the bottom of a hole or trench; it cannot develop into the right kind of humus at such a depth. Half a bucket of compost per hole is desirable, but it need not be fully rotted down; a double handful of bonemeal mixed with hoof and horn per hole is beneficial, and any available wood ash can be spread over the whole plot. It is perhaps worth mentioning here that some growers recommend planting bush fruit on raised beds or ridges: I have only slight experience of this practice, but on very heavy land it would be well worth trying. In this case a gently sloping ridge 120–150 cm (4–5 ft) wide will have to be constructed, giving a 23–30 cm (9–12 in) drop between crest and trough.
Mulching is undoubtedly the best after-treatment for all soft fruit throughout their lives: it solves the weed problem provided that all perennial weeds have been scrupulously removed during land preparation, and it provides a regular supply of worm food. Straw, if obtainable, is very good for this purpose, and can be supplemented with autumn leaves or half-rotted leaf mould from the previous year. It is best applied in the autumn so as to retain some of the summer warmth. Before putting on any mulch the remains of the last one are scratched into the top few centimetres of the soil and any compacted patches are loosened with a fork, always remembering that the fine feeding roots of all soft fruit are very close to the surface. Then spread a little compost, together with all the wood ashes and bonfire ash that can be collected. Finally, again before the mulch, spray with 500; if no bio-dynamic compost has been put on, pinches of the compost preparations should be added to the 500 before stirring. Another possibility is to mulch with deep litter from a poultry house. This must be applied in the late autumn when the roots are dormant, otherwise some raw nitrogenous substances may be taken up which will lead to overlush growth susceptible to diseases. If material for mulching is quite unobtainable, the plants will require more compost than would be used under a mulch; when put on in the spring it should be well ripened, but an autumn application should be less mature.
All soft fruits need plenty of potash. If the compost has been made with a good proportion of poultry or pig manure, the potash supply should be adequate; but cow manure or the average type of compost will have be supplemented. Wood ashes provide the best answer, but they must be kept dry: if left out in the rain after a fire, much of their potash will be lost by leaching. In a larger garden a patch of Russian comfrey can be grown and its potash-rich leaves can be used as a mulch. Even so it is unlikely that there will be enough to treat the whole plot every year and a system of rotational applications will have to be worked out. A foliar spray of comfrey jauche soon after fruitset can also help.
501 is sprayed ideally three times—when the flower buds are just beginning to appear, soon after the fruit has set and after harvest when the leaves are nourishing next year's buds. The second of these is the most important.
Raspberries
The normal life of a raspberry cane is three years. In the first year a small shoot is formed at the base of an earlier cane or from a point on a larger root, but it does not appear above the soil. In the second year the shoots develop into fully grown canes but do not flower. In the third year flower-bearing shoots grow out from the buds formed at the bases of the previous year's leaves. After bearing their crop these canes die and are replaced by the next generation. There are, however, varieties that fruit in the autumn on current season canes brought into growth by cutting back all except very young shoots in March; much of such fruit often fails to ripen properly. It is best to start a raspberry bed with bought-in plants which are certified as virus-free. Even if they have been maltreated with chemicals they will soon lose any hankering after them and will respond to bio-dynamic treatments. The bought plants will consist of a cane up to 60 cm (2 ft) long and should have at least one shoot 5–7.5 cm (2–3 in) long at the base where the roots come out. They are planted 38 cm (15 in) apart, so a dozen plants will occupy 5 m (15 ft) of row. If planting a double row do not be led astray by the usual text book advice to space the rows 150 cm (5 ft) apart; give them an extra 30 cm—it will make picking and other operations much more convenient. Planting is best done in the autumn but may be deferred until early spring. Take out a trench 45 cm (18 in) wide and 30 cm (12 in) deep and as usual keeping the top and subsoil separate. On a heavy soil fork over the bottom of the trench to break it up a little and help drainage. About six buckets of nearly rotted compost or well rotted manure will be needed for the 5 m (15 ft) trench, but it must not be put in below 15 cm (6 in). One kilo (2 lb) each of bonemeal and hoof and horn are also advisable. The trench is filled as for top fruit holes. The young plants must not be set too deep down in the trench; a good guide is to put them in so that not much more than 25 mm (1 in) of soil will cover the small young shoots.
The usual practice is then to fix training wires for the canes to prevent wind damage and to support the crop. Old telephone wire, if obtainable, is very good for this purpose. A stout post with its last 60 cm (2 ft) well creosoted is planted firmly at each end of the row and wires are stretched between them at 90, 120 and 150 cm (3,4 and 5 ft) above ground level. An intermediate less stout post will prove to be a good addition as 5 m (15 ft) is rather on the long side for keeping the wires reasonably taut. An alternative method is to dispense with wires altogether after the first two years. In this way a kind of hedge is developed, allowing more canes to grow out from each stool than is possible under a strict training programme. There will be a certain amount of mutual support without excessive overcrowding, but the outer canes will tend to droop when carrying a heavy crop.
After planting, the canes on the new plants are cut back to four buds: the leaves from these will help to nourish the sprouting shoots in their early stages, but any feeble attempts by these older buds to flower and fruit must be frustrated. In the second and future years the old canes are cut out as soon as harvesting is complete. At the same time young weaklings and any canes surplus to future requirements are removed, leaving four per stool. The temptation to leave more than four must be resisted because overcrowding on the wires is one of the main causes of mouldy fruit in damp weather. At this stage the new canes are loosely slid between the wires. When the buds begin to swell in the spring (February/March) tip back all the canes to a strong bud and fix them with two ties to the appropriate wires, leaving no growth much above the 150 cm (5 ft) wire. Buds at the tips, if not pruned back, do not bear the best fruit, so it is better to concentrate the plant sap into stronger growths. This job should not be done before bud swelling as there is a danger of frost damage and die-back.
There are several troubles to prevent or watch for. As mentioned above, raspberries may get infected by virus, the commonest being indicated by a bronzing and mottling of the leaves with a consequent deterioration in the size and quality of the fruit. These symptoms are unlikely to appear in a well established bio-dynamic garden, but the virus could be present or dormant in old stools on a recently acquired property. Early diagnosis is made difficult by the fact that the very young leaves of some varieties tend to have a bronze tinge. There is no proved cure for this trouble, either conventional or bio-dynamic. An infected row will have to be eradicated and another one started on a new site well away from the old one.
The raspberry beetle maggots
) eat their way into the fruit. The standard remedy is to spray the flowering shoots with derris two or three times during the season, but this can be very dangerous for bees unless the treatment is done in the evening when they have ceased working. This rather drastic remedy should never be used unless there has been serious damage in the previous year and unless the beetles have actually been seen. In any case, collect and burn any damaged fruit. The larvae pupate in the soil round the stools where they pass the winter, so it may be a good plan to work over the soil very gently two or three times during autumn and winter in the hope that robins will find the pupae.
In damp, dull weather the fruit may go mouldy due to attack by botrytis. If such conditions prevail when the fruit is setting, a preventative spray of equisetum (508) repeated at seven to ten day intervals will be a help, though it may not be 100 per cent effective. Other preventative measures will include the normal spray of 501, the avoidance of a spring application of any raw manure, and perhaps the waterglass treatment described below for gooseberries.
Gooseberries
Gooseberries are most conveniently grown on a leg
—that is, with about 15 cm (6 in) of clear stem before any branches are allowed to grow. If purchased from a nursery two-year-old plants are to be preferred because the basic framework will have been formed by the nurseryman, and they will be easier than three-year-olds to establish under bio-dynamic conditions. It is not difficult, however, to strike cuttings from one's own bushes or from a friend's: the main point here is to cut out cleanly all buds below those which will eventually form the framework: any bits of buds on the part of the cutting below ground level will shoot all too easily and create a multi-stemmed bush very quickly.
Planting is done in the usual way during autumn in holes spaced 150 cm (5 ft) apart. A slightly raised bed may help to ward off mildew. After planting shorten the leading branches by about one third to an upward and outward facing bud. Subsequent pruning will consist of shortening the leaders and reducing side growths to two buds to form fruit spurs, the latter operation being done in July. After some years the leaders and spurs on the main branches may start to lose vigour: they can be cut out to a strong new shoot which will probably have been formed near the centre of the bush. Long-established bushes with a mass of shoots arising from the base should be drastically thinned, cutting out the oldest and weakest and leaving only a few strong growths. When pruning gooseberries the main point is to make picking as easy and painless as possible, so try to imagine what the bush will look like when carrying a heavy crop.
There are two common troubles. First is the sawfly (sulphur shy
and the young leaves will be killed. Waterglass (sodium silicate) at a strength of 25 g (1 oz) per 4.5 litres (1 gal) seems to help but has not been proved over a long period: it is sprayed as for 508. At the same time a little of the solution at double strength is poured into small holes half a trowel deep and spaced 90 cm (3 ft) apart under the extremities of the outer branches. Slightly attacked fruit can be washed and cooked. Strangely enough mildew can be even more devastating in very dry weather than when it is wet.
Blackcurrants
Blackcurrants are planted in the same way as gooseberries. The planting distance may be as little as 120 cm (4 ft), but unless space saving is of prime importance 150 cm (5 ft) allows for greater ease of picking, weeding and cultivation. They are propagated by 20–25 cm (8–10 in) cuttings taken in autumn from young growth which has just shed its leaves, making sure that any rounded buds are taken off and burned. The lower buds are not removed as for gooseberries because plenty of growth from the base is desirable: they will have to remain in the bed for two years before planting out, and it will then be another year before a small crop can be expected. Bought-in plants will probably have three or four shoots on them: these are cut back to about four buds which will produce the fruiting stems for the following year. Most of the crop is borne on the young pale-coloured growths of the previous year. Any older black-coloured branches and stems will make some shoots during the growing season, but these are usually short and thin, and will not carry the best fruit. The object of management and pruning is to stimulate long, strong shoots at or near the base of the bush. This is achieved by pruning out all branches which have borne a crop right back to the base or to a strong shoot not less than 45 cm (18 in) long. Pruning is done as soon as the last currant has been picked, thus concentrating all the plant's energy into next year's crop. Mature bushes which have been allowed to retain a lot of old wood are best treated over two years, cutting half the old branches right back to leave only 7.5–10 cm (3–4 in) of stump from which strong shoots will spring in the following year.
Blackcurrants.
The demand on the plant for vigorous growth every year means that it will need more nitrogen than other soft fruit. This is given by compost or manure at up to two buckets per bush, applied in the autumn. First loosen any compacted patches with a fork and spray with preparation 500. Then, after spreading the manure, cover with a straw mulch. If the work has to be deferred till the spring, only fully ripened compost should be used. An alternative to the autumn compost/straw combination is deep litter from a poultry house, when available: it is spread 5 cm (2 in) deep around the bushes.
Apart from greenfly, the chief trouble with blackcurrants is likely to come from big bud
. It is caused by tiny mites which enter the buds while they are still growing and cause them to develop into a larger spherical form instead of the normal smaller and more tapering shape. As soon as the buds begin to swell in the spring, the mites feed on the embryo flower stalks within and then migrate to other buds. The standard remedy is lime sulphur applied when the leaves are just opening and again later, but as with gooseberries some varieties do not like this treatment. With only a few bushes hand picking is quite possible at any time during late autumn or winter, but it is essential to go over the bushes two or three times because it is almost impossible to spot all the infected buds at the first picking. Burn the buds in an open tin over a hot wood fire, mix the white ash with fine sand and scatter it round the bushes, or else treat the ash like 501. This will not provide an immediate cure, but will help if repeated over three or four years.
The big bud
mite is liable to carry the virus which causes a condition known as reversion: in other words the bushes revert to a wild state, bearing undersized fruit and small leaves with only three points instead of the usual five or more. There is no known remedy: infected bushes must be uprooted and burned and a fresh start made in a different part of the garden. When moving into an old garden it is advisable to inspect any old blackcurrant bushes very carefully for signs of this disease before deciding whether to keep them.
Red and White Currants
The treatment of both types is the same, so they are taken together: in fact it almost seems that originally one of them sprang from the other. Here again 150 cm (5 ft) spacing is to be preferred to 120 cm (4 ft). The fruit is borne on both old and young wood, so training and pruning are quite different from blackcurrants, in fact much the same as for gooseberries. Both are best grown on a leg
with four well-spaced main branches from which strong outward-growing laterals are allowed to develop so as to fill out the bush without overcrowding it. Smaller and inward-growing laterals are cut back to three buds soon after harvest in order to promote the formation of fruit buds for the following year. If multi-stemmed plants are bought or inherited, they should be treated as if the leg
had been buried and was forking at ground level. Only four or at most five main stems are needed, and all young shoots springing from the base are cut right back during autumn pruning when leaders and main laterals are shortened by a third. These currants are liable to get rather straggly with age, but this habit can be corrected by cutting the main branches back to a strong growth near the centre. Soil treatment and the use of 500 and 501 follow the same lines as for gooseberries.
The only fairly common trouble is due to aphis attack quite early in the season. The growing leaves develop small red patches which enlarge with the leaf, turning a dark crimson and distorting the normal shape. By the time the bulbous-looking blotches become obvious it is too late to do anything about them, but the damage is not very serious. It is not difficult to spot the trouble in its early stages, and a spray or dusting with derris, pyrethrum or nettle jauche should clear things up.
These currants, and gooseberries also, can be planted against a wall or fence and trained either as cordons at 30 cm (1 ft) apart or as fans at 75 cm (2 ft 6 in). This method is very convenient for netting and makes picking easier. An annual mulch of compost, manure or deep litter is given in the autumn with 500: this helps to retain moisture, but in a dry summer some irrigation may be necessary.
Blackberries, Loganberries and Tayberries
It is well worth growing at least one plant of each if the necessary space can be found. Each will require a 300 cm (10 ft) run of three or four training wires stretched between supporting posts. Propagation is simple. In September the tip of a young cane is pegged down to the soil and covered with a piece of slate or tile. By the end of November it will have developed a mass of roots and a small young shoot. The cane is cut at 60 cm (2 ft) from the young plant which is lifted and transferred to a well composted nursery bed for a year before being moved to its permanent position. At this stage the old piece of cane will have died, and there should be a strong shoot about 90 cm (3 ft) long with an embryo shoot at its base, just like a raspberry. This is what one gets if purchasing from a nursery. Planting is done in the usual way and the leading cane is taken back to about half a dozen buds. The new cane should attain several feet and will bear fruit in the following year. Cultural treatment in subsequent years is similar to that for other soft fruit.
Again like raspberries, the canes die after bearing a crop and must be cut back to the ground soon after harvest is over; but on some very vigorous blackberries only the ends and the side fruit-bearing branchlets die off and it is possible to keep the main cane for cropping in the second year. After three years or so quite large stools will have developed and they will produce a lot of young canes every season. With loganberries and tayberries, a way has to be found to prevent them interfering with the ripening crop. There are four possibilities.
- Leave them alone and put up with the inconvenience: at least the young growth will give some protection from birds.
- Train all bearing canes to one side of the stool and the young ones to the other, reversing in the following year, but this method does not make full use of the available space.
- Bundle the young canes round a tall central pole as they grow—not at all easy.
- Gently bend each young cane over to the left or right as appropriate when it has reached a length of about 120 cm (4 ft) and tie in bundles very loosely to the lowest training wire.
Methods 1 and 4 are the most practical.
After cutting out the old canes the young ones are spread loosely over the training wires where they will continue to grow. The final training is left until the leaves have dropped off in February or March. One, or at the most two, of the strongest canes are twined round each of the top three wires, giving a maximum of twelve canes per stool. Damaged and weak canes surplus to requirements are cut out at ground level, only one bud is left on any side shoots which may have arisen, and the ends of the trained canes are taken back to a strong bud near the supporting posts.
Blackberries are easier to deal with as they do not produce so many young canes from the base, and it is not so necessary to sort these out from those bearing the crop: four strong canes per stool will give a good crop because each flowering side branch carries much more fruit than on a loganberry or tayberry. Pruning and training are similar to loganberries and tayberries. Although varieties are mentioned in Appendix B, it is perhaps appropriate here to give a word of warning about Himalayan Giant. Its large fruit are of reasonable quality, but its thorns are particularly vicious and it produces canes of six metres (20 ft) or more which are very difficult to manage.
These fruits are susceptible to the raspberry beetle, and the same methods of dealing with it are applicable. In a wet year logans may suffer from botrytis mould which will be more damaging in crowded conditions—an argument against method 1 above. Again treat as for raspberries. Logans may also develop smutty nose
, a trouble not mentioned in any text book. As the name implies, the pips at the ends of the fruit do not swell and generally become dark in colour. It is probably a physiological trouble brought on partly by the greed of the grower in leaving too many canes to fruit, and partly by a shortage of potash. The remedy is obvious.
Tayberries are the result of a cross similar to loganberries but are more vigorous and tolerant. The flavour is excellent. When very ripe, almost purple, they can be eaten as dessert but are particularly good for stewing, bottling or freezing. It is worth planting a few along a stretch of posts and wires if you can afford the space. Propagation is by pegging the tip of a young cane into the ground or a pot.
Strawberries
Strawberries fall into a category of their own, quite different from bush fruit. Their maximum useful life is only three years, or four under exceptionally good conditions. It is not advisable to replant in the same place after uprooting the worn-out plants, so some form of rotation is called for. Strawberries cannot conveniently be fitted into the vegetable rotation unless large quantities are needed and there is plenty of space: in such a case an extra plot would have to be incorporated and they would occupy one plot for four years, following root crops and followed by brassicas. A better arrangement is to devote part of the garden to strawberries and to divide it into three plots. One plot would carry them for two years, the other two being used for fertility building and odd vegetables such as sweet corn which do not fit easily into the main plan: salad crops could also be grown here. In the first year take runners (as described below) from any existing strong plants, or buy them in, certified virus-free, from a reliable source. Plant them out as soon as possible in late July or early August. Leave these to fruit a second year, and take runners from them then for the next planting. The plot which is to take them will have been sown the previous autumn with winter tares and rye to give a good bulk for digging in during the latter half of May. The green manure will be well decomposed for the runners in July, and could stand an intercrop of lettuce. It would be quite possible under this system to leave the original bed for a third year and postpone the planting of the next one, but the largest and finest berries are borne on maidens and two-year-old plants.
Although new strawberries may be planted at any time during late summer, autumn or even in the spring (in which case they must be disbudded), by far the best results are obtained from runners established in late July or early August. In order to get them ready in time the first ones from the strongest bearing plants are either pegged into the soil where they will not interfere with picking, or are pegged into 7.5 cm (3 in). pots filled with a rich compost mixture and sunk into the bed. In either case any growth beyond the pegged runner is regularly removed. In very dry weather the pots may need a little water from time to time. The object is to produce as early as possible vigorous runners which will continue to develop strongly well into the autumn after being planted out. Runners planted out in September or October (as is often done) do not get a chance to make a root system capable of nourishing more than a couple of bearing trusses in the following season. When planting out great care must be taken to spread the roots well and not too deeply, and to ensure that that the crown is firmly in position level with the soil surface.
Strawberries prefer a slightly acid soil, and for this reason pine needles are often recommended as a mulch to be applied in April or May before the first blossoms open. Pine needles are less attractive to slugs than the usual straw mulch, and their aroma improves the quality of the fruit. For plants which are to be retained a generous dressing of compost with a sprinkling of bonemeal or very well rotted manure is lightly worked into the soil with the remains of the mulch soon after harvest, but first remove all surplus runners and give a spray of 500. In this way the plants are enabled to build up good crowns for the following year: but on light soils liable to winter leaching the dressing is best deferred until the spring.
Apart from birds the main troubles are greenfly and botrytis mould. The greenfly start right in the hearts among the youngest leaves and are not always obvious to casual inspection: rather than hope for predators to arrive, it is better to deal with them at once with nettle jauche or derris squirted well into the crowns. Botrytis attack can be severe in dull, damp seasons. The normal 501 sprays at bud formation and first ripening will afford some protection, but it is best to supplement these with regular equisetum treatment at weekly intervals from fruit set if conditions appear to be adverse. In gardens where the trouble has appeared in the past irrespective of the weather, it is worth trying the waterglass treatment. In any event do not tempt the botrytis by leaving dead leaves and old fruit stalks on older plants: remove them in March, or April at the latest.
Strawberries should be planted and cultivated preferably on fruit days. In damp climates especially, and to discourage fungal attack, it is a good idea to plant them on slightly raised beds—two rows to a bed. It raises them a little above the fungi level
of the soil and they are also easier to pick.
Birds
For soft fruit the question whether to net or not is a difficult one. On a commercial scale netting is not only impossible but is also quite unnecessary; in a small garden the percentage of fruit taken is likely to be very much larger. The one or two redcurrant bushes which are quite sufficient for the needs of a family must be netted, otherwise thrushes will strip the lot before they are fully ripe. Blackcurrants are not so tempting and a good crop can usually be obtained from unprotected bushes. Raspberries and logans are borderline; sometimes it seems that birds regard nets as a challenge to their ingenuity. If there are bullfinches around it may be necessary to protect gooseberries from their ravages between Christmas and Easter; it does not take a pair of them very long to take all the buds off a bush, leaving only those at the ends of the twigs. Apart from almost total loss of crop the bare twigs are useless for further bearing, and the bush will have to be pruned down to a skeleton. A small patch of strawberries is extremely vulnerable and must be netted unless the plants are under cloches.
One solution to the problem is to have a fruit cage. The old-fashioned type, small mesh wire netting stapled to a stout timber framework, is now prohibitively expensive to erect and maintain; but synthetic fibre netting on a frame of interlocking aluminium rods is well worth consideration. It must, however, be remembered that it is essential to remove at least the top net during the offseason, both to allow access to birds looking for insects and to avoid heavy accumulations of snow which may bend the frame, rupture the net and break the fruit bushes.
Vegetable Crops*
Herbs*
The Garden Calendar
The gardener who imagines that his work can be reduced to a set of rules and formulae, followed and applied according to special days marked on the calendar, is but preparing himself for a double disappointment. Few things are so certain to be uncertain as the seasons and the weather; and these, rather than a set of dates, even for a single locality, form the signs, which the real gardener follows. That is the great trouble with much book and magazine gardening.
Frederick Frye Rockwell, Around the Year in the Garden, 1917
The seasons express themselves differently in the diverse locations and altitudes of the country. Most garden books and almanacs have general information that is fairly safe to follow. The monthly indications given in the Organic Farming magazine, the Calendar of Organic Gardening, and the voluminous Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening (all put out by the staff of Rodale Books) divide the United States into general climatic zones, giving hints for month by month gardening activity.
The gardening calendar discussed here is based on data collected locally in the Rogue River Valley Area. Other parts of the country will have similar, but not exactly the same seasonal distributions. The frost free date in spring, the first frost in the fall, the thaw out after a winter freeze, the length of the growing season, the average yearly temperatures, the relative amount of cloud cover and rainy days compared to sunny days, each of these factors will be different from location to location. It is best to ask the old-timers in areas where one is a newcomer.
In Southern Oregon the year divides into a dry, sunny, warm season that lasts from the end of May into October and a cool, rainy, cloudy season that starts with the protective fogs in November and lasts on and off until May. The sunny season is ushered in by frog concerts and a parade of the most beautiful spring flowers. As the summer proceeds, it gets progressively drier. As madrone (
There is never the long, hard freeze and continuous blanket of snow that makes it impossible to dig in the ground in the winter as in other parts of the country. In February, as the days noticeably lengthen, it is already possible to put in the first crops (peas, snow peas, broad beans, arugula or garden rocket, spinach, onions). Yet the frost-free date is still a long way off. As long as the white shimmer of snow stays on the mountains, it is not safe to put out summer crops. Many a newcomer has been fooled by the mild weather interspersed with rain lasting from February to April and May, putting summer crops in, only to see the tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, beans, and squash limp and black after a frost has passed in the early morning. Frosts lasting to the end of May and into June make gardening tricky in this region, and the dry conditions of July, August, and September make it ever more difficult. It is no wonder that the native tribes, such as the Takelma or Klamath, preferred hunting and gathering to horticulture, for they could not make use of such techniques as irrigation, sprinkling, or setting up protective plastic tents. Native Americans in the more hospitable Midwest, East, and Southeast were, on the contrary, master horticulturists.
In the spring, raised beds help to warm and drain the soil more quickly. The winter cover crops (legume-grain combination) will have gotten high enough by February and March that they can be turned in and still have plenty of time to rot and feed the earthworms before the summer crops go in. After midsummer solstice, it is important to concentrate on watering and mulching to cut down water evaporation. Usually the fall weather is mild and lasts a long time, so that it is easy for the winter garden to get a good start.
The following is a month-by-month description of how the gardening year might proceed in the Rogue Valley area:
- January
-
January: Prune fruit trees and berries in late January. Feed your bird friends with wild birdseed mixes and include suet for the hairy woodpeckers and chickadees. Build bird shelters.1 It is a good time to visualize the garden in one's minds eye, to plan the year's garden crops and rotations, to read garden books and catalogues, and to order whatever seeds one might need.
- February
-
February: On drier days in February one can prepare the double-dug beds for sowing the first crops. Toward the end of the month, fava (or broad) beans, snow peas, pod peas, corn salad (or lamb's salad), onions, shallots, garden cress, and radishes should be already sown. Local gardeners pick George Washington's birthday (February 22) as the day to sow peas. Pea beds can be interplanted with early lettuce, spinach, and radishes, with the tall peas on the north or west side of the bed and the short peas on the south side of the bed for better light utilization. The peas and fava beans should be inoculated with nitrogen-fixing bacteria spores.
These new plantings can be protected from frost by stretching clear plastic tents over them. A frame of PVC pipe can support these tents, which is the cheapest material to use. Care must be taken to air the tents out regularly in order to prevent mildew, to uncover them when the sun is shining to prevent cooking the seedlings, and to cover them over on cold, clear nights. If it gets really cold, an extra layer of plastic, blankets, or even straw can be placed over the tent. Milk jugs filled with hot water can be put under the tent; water gives off its warmth slowly enough to prevent freezing.
The winter cover crops can be turned over and left to rot. Root crops that are still in the ground from the previous season (carrots, oyster plant, beets, Hamburg parsley, parsnips, celeriac) are imperceptibly getting ready for new sap flow in their biennial cycle, and can be removed to a cool root cellar to delay their growing and getting stringy and tough too soon.
- March
-
March: In early and mid-March the following plants can be sown into carefully prepared soil of the cold frame: summer cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, collards, and other members of the cabbage family; lettuce, Swiss chard, onions, leeks, celery, celeriac, and endive. The cold frame, composed of a sifted mixture of good soil (one part peat, one part sand, one part ripe Stage III compost, and two parts good garden loam) is framed with boards and has a lid made from storm windows or stretched plastic. Most gardening books give directions how to build such a frame.3 Into this cold frame the seeds are sown into little patches of one or two square feet; later, when the seedlings are big enough they are transplanted. The seedlings need good care after they germinate. They must be watered, weeded, and thinned so that they do not crowd each other. A light shower with horsetail-chamomile tea once a week is recommended to keep the seedlings from dampening off. The cover should be closed at night and lifted slightly during the day, in order to let the air circulate and keep the leaves dry. Like all the umbelliferae, celery and celeriac take a long time to germinate (three weeks), so patient weeding and gentle watering of the soil are necessary. Celeriac seeds are so small that mixing the seed with fine sand is recommended before sowing so that the seeds will be spaced more evenly.
From mid-March toward the end of March, oyster plant, dandelion, garden orache, beets, carrots, kohlrabi, mustard, parsley, Hamburg parsley, parsnips, turnips, and rutabagas can be sown out directly into the garden. Slow-germinating carrots can have a few lettuce or radish seeds mixed in to mark the rows. The row distances vary; most seed packets and garden books give recommendations and directions. The rows should be spaced wide enough to be able to cultivate with a thrust-hoe or a draw-hoe (pendulum hoe). It is recommended that the bed is worked two weeks before sowing, so that weed seeds will have had ample time to sprout and can consequently be destroyed by hoeing and raking. After sowing the rows, the beds must be hoed between the rows to prevent the soil from crusting, to facilitate carbon-dioxide/oxygen exchange, to stop the capillary movement of water molecules upward to the soil surface where evaporation takes place, and to keep weeds from overtaking the crop plants. This is done regularly, but especially after rain or watering.
In March one can still put out more peas, corn salad, onions, and spinach and also sow asparagus for later transplanting. March is also the time during which potatoes can be put into the ground. St. Patrick's Day, in honor of the patron saint of the Irish whose fate is so tied up with this tuber, is a good time to plant the potato, providing the moon is in a good position. The potato, a very lunar plant, is best planted near apogee and in the earth sign of Taurus. Scorpio and Cancer do not make for good potatoes. Like legumes, they can be planted in the new moon.
Like most staples, such as rice and corn, the potato is surrounded by magic and ritual.4 It seems that almost every gardener has his own procedure as to how best to grow potatoes. Some swear by mulch, some by hills, some by planting them in tires, but in any case, an old saying goes that
the dumbest farmer has the largest spuds,
meaning that gut feeling is just as important as intellectual acuity. The method, which works for me, involves the following steps:- The soil is fertilized with well-rotted manure or old compost (Stage III) and a light dressing of wood ashes; ideally one could also add a spraying the biodynamic preparation 500, the horn dung preparation.
- The seed potatoes are laid in a box onto the windowsill for a week to green out.
- On the day of planting, they are cut into sections containing an eye each (each eye forms a new plant). These sections are dipped in pure hardwood ashes to cauterize the fresh cut and to provide them with the potassium they like.
- The cuttings are then laid in rows two feet apart, at a distance of a foot and half within each row.
- The soil is raked over the rows, forming a ridge. As soon as the first leaves appear, more soil is raked over the ridges, leaving just the top leaves exposed.
- In the summer, the potatoes are heavily mulched.
- As soon as the potato plants flower the first tubers can be dug up for eating (late June).
- When the foliage finally dies back in September, the field can be cleared and the potatoes stored in the cellar.
At the end of March, toward the beginning of April, if there is no greenhouse available, a hot bed can be put in for growing the seedlings of tomatoes, tomatillos, peppers, eggplant, okra, New Zealand spinach, Malabar spinach, cucumbers, and squash. The hot bed is made by digging a bed three or four feet wide, to a depth of three feet. Two feet of fresh horse manure is packed in and soaked with liquid manure, animal urine, slurry, or sludge. A five-inch layer of peat moss covers the manure to absorb ammonia and methane, which might otherwise escape and injure the young seedlings. A foot of good garden loam, a mixture similar to that which is used for the cold frame, is put on top. Into this good soil the seeds for the warmth-loving summer crops are sown. The sides are boarded up and glass or a stretched plastic cover is put over the seedbed at an angle toward the south exposure to catch and collect the sun's warmth. In this way the seedbed will be heated from above and below. The horse manure mixture heats steadily and gently for about six weeks, a fact made use of by alchemists who
cooked
their concoctions in horse manure.5 All the rules relating to the cold frame must be observed here, too: gentle watering with slightly warmed water, careful weeding, thinning to space the seedlings, airing the bed, and covering during cold nights. A system like this demands constant, daily attention, but it will be much cheaper than buying pony packs at a store or nursery, and it will give good, hardy seedlings, which can be set out after the frost free date has passed. The squash, zucchini, and cucumbers, if they are grown in the hot bed, should be placed into peat pots. Later each peat pot, with the young plant in it, is planted directly into the soil; this makes the transplanting less traumatic for these sensitive plants.Also during the month of March, certain perennials such as asparagus, horseradish, pokeweed, rhubarb, Jerusalem artichoke, and comfrey can be planted in permanent beds along with hardy herbs such as nettle, chives, lavender, sage, hyssop, and others. Chamomile can be sown at this time in slightly alkaline soil, preferably into the garden paths. Chamomile, like its relative the pineapple weed, does not mind being trampled on.
- April
-
April: In April much of the work started in March continues. More sowings of hardy plants can be made. The cold frame and hot bed need special care, as do the composts. Easter season, determined by the full moon after equinox, is known to be the most fertile time of the year, when the land is greening with astonishing vitality. Some old-timers put in special Good Friday gardens.
- May
-
May: Very hardy plants such as cabbages, broccoli, cauliflower, endives, lettuce, Swiss chard, and leeks can be planted out a couple of weeks before the frost-free date. Toward the end of May, one should be eating some snow peas, pod peas, perhaps some fava beans, plus spinach, nettle, lettuce, green onions, cress, and radishes. After the frost-free date, the warm weather plants can be put in their beds.
- June
-
June: By now, as midsummer, or St. John's tide, approaches, forces of light and warmth streaming in from the cosmos make it possible to put out more of the warmth-loving plants. Transplanted from the hot bed into the regular garden beds are tomatoes, okra, New Zealand spinach, Malabar spinach, eggplants, peppers, ground cherries, tomatillos, cucumbers, and squash. At first it might be a good idea not to mulch so that the ground can warm up some more, but later, mulching is essential. At this time the celeriac needs to be planted out; any earlier would not endanger its survival, but would adversely affect its tuber-forming ability. Tender herbs such as basil, savory, marjoram, rosemary, and nasturtium are sown out at this time.6 Beans, corn, and summer lettuce can be sown directly into the ground. The early pea and spinach beds can be cleaned out now, making more room for the summer plantings. Strawberries should be thinned and mulched now, and the runners transplanted to a new bed. It is also high time to stop cutting rhubarb and asparagus so that they will have a chance to acquire strength for the next year.
- July
-
July: Mulching and correct watering is the main concern now. Tomatoes should be trained up stakes so that the fruits will not rot on the ground. The suckers should be snapped off so that most of the energy of the tomato plant goes into the main shoot and the fruits. Similarly, cucumbers should be trained up chicken wire fences so that they do not sprawl all over the ground and can be picked without moving the vines when they get ripe; usually it is because the vines have been moved that the cucumbers become bitter.
The cold frame is needed again by the end of this month to sow out fall cabbage, cauliflower, kale, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, sugar hat, lettuce, and endives. These seedbeds must be kept moist and shaded by lattice, burlap, or cheesecloth.
For more winter vegetables, carrots, turnips, kohlrabi, rutabagas, Chinese cabbage, Hamburg parsley, and beets can be sown in any beds that are still unoccupied. A more shaded location, good humus, sufficient moisture, and special care might alleviate some of the problems of seed germination at this time of year. Often it is necessary to re-sow these rows because of poor germination.
Melons must be thinned to keep them from crowding each other. Zucchini and cucumbers must be harvested continuously in order for them to keep producing. Now is also the time to sow out Florence fennel, so that it will grow the big, bulbous leaf bases that make delicious fall and early winter eating.
- Auguts
-
August: The July work continues in August. By mid-August the seedlings in the cold frame can be planted out into the fields. These plants must receive a scoop of good compost and be watered and mulched immediately. This is the time to cut and dry many of the herbs, just before they bloom. (Except the ones from which the flowers are used, such as chamomile, mugwort, or calendula, for example.) The best plants can be marked for saving for seed. By now, an abundance of fresh food will bless the gardener.
- September
-
September: There is still time to plant sugarloaf (witloof) salad, endives, corn salad, and spinach for fall and winter. Cover crops can be sown out wherever there is room. Putting them in at this time of year insures good, lush growth before the days get too cold and the birds, still having plenty of other food to eat, will not be so tempted to scratch up the seeds. Garlic cloves can be put in. Most of the other work consists of harvesting the summer crops, this being the time most traditional harvest festivals were celebrated.
- October
-
October, November: With the passing of fall equinox, or Michaelmas, the jungle-like profusion that characterized the summer garden is gone. Jack Frost and other such elemental beings might be appearing soon, so it is wise to get one's plastic tents ready to put up in case of a cold night. Sprays from valerian flowers or from the roots of the Japanese knotweed can be used on tomatoes and bell peppers to extend their frost hardiness. Jerusalem artichokes, having finished blooming, are now ready to harvest, but can be harvested throughout the winter right from the ground, unless the winter is exceptionally cold and there is a risk they will freeze. Toward the end of November, it is advisable to put leaf and straw mulch over the winter crops that stay in the garden soil to protect them from later frosts and light freezing. Strawberries, asparagus, and rhubarb rows are now mulched with old, rotted manure. As the beds are cleared and leaves raked up, composts are built that last through the winter. These composts are fed during the winter with kitchen wastes and various manures. They should be sufficiently humified for use by the time spring comes around.
- December
-
December: This is a good time to relax, eat pumpkin pie, and count one's blessings. The compost should be watched so that the rains do not leach them out. The twelve days of Christmas, from Christmas to Epiphany, used to be taken as oracles for the coming year; each day represents the consecutive months of the year. How the weather and the moods are on each day is an oracle of what is to come.
This cursory description of the gardening year is by no means complete. Each landscape, each farm-garden organism, as well as each year has its own particular character. Some years this or that crop will do very well, and another year rather poorly. Each year has a distinct weather pattern and the kinds of bugs, birds, or weeds will be slightly altered. There can be no exact how-to-do-it manual, as in mechanical sciences.
In the winter months when the garden rests within the mind of the gardener, as well as within the form-giving forces of the cosmos, we can awaken the intuitive sense and pictures of imagination that are as important in gardening as the tools and the practical manuals are. We can let the coming year pass before the mind's eye and, while looking back on the store of experience of past years, plan the manifestation of the garden in its next season.
Teas, Preparations, and Biotic Substances*
Biodynamic Preparations (by Wali Via)
Biodynamic preparations elicit a wide range of reactions from hogwash
to intrigue
to participatory meaningful connectiveness.
Perhaps what I have personally appreciated about biodynamics, over the 36 years that I have been making and using the preparations, is that biodynamics has helped me keep an open awareness of the mysteries of life that lie beyond, and are embedded in, the material world. The premise behind biodynamics is that life processes cannot simply be reduced to chemical and physical reactions, but that within what is scientifically observable there are non material forces at work. These forces being non-material can be called spiritual,
though, of course, that is a loaded term. Within our materialistic Western culture, biodynamics has not been widely adopted, not because it doesn't work, but because it doesn't make sense to conventional thinking.
The preparations can be viewed as healing remedies for the Earth. It is painfully clear that our planet is in need of our attentive care and the biodynamic preparations are one way for us to fulfill our role as healers through our agricultural activities. When working with the biodynamic preparations we are harnessing the life forces in a way that allows them to act as catalysts to enhance the health and balance of our farm. These preparations take much care to make, and being mentored is the best way to learn. Many regional biodynamic groups, including the Oregon Biodynamic Group, welcome newcomers to join them to learn how to make the preparations. Most biodynamic practitioners don't make their own preparations because it is a time-consuming activity, but instead elect to purchase them from a regional group or the Josephine Porter Institute.
The six compost preparations are made from specific herbs: yarrow flowers, chamomile blossoms, the whole areal portion of the stinging nettle while in flower, oak bark, dandelion blossoms and valerian flowers. Four of these six preparations are enveloped in sheaths of animal organs. All are made with a sensitivity to the rhythms of the sun and zodiac. All but one are buried in the ground for a specified period of time. When the preparations are finished, they have the appearance of well-ripened compost, with the exception of the valerian preparation, which is in a liquid form.
The compost preparations are easy to use. Upon the completion of building a well-made compost pile, six holes are placed at 45-degree angles that reach toward the center of the pile. One teaspoon of the yarrow, chamomile, nettle, oak bark and dandelion preparations are inserted into their own hole. One-quarter teaspoon of the valerian preparation (which is fermented valerian flower juice) is stirred for 10–15 minutes in a gallon of good-quality water (rainwater is best, spring and well water are fine, chlorinated water should be allowed to sit for several days in the sun prior to use). The method of stirring is specific, repeatedly creating a vortex in one direction, followed by a vortex in the other direction. Demonstration is the best way to learn how to stir. Half of this solution is poured into the remaining hole. All of the holes are closed, and the remaining ½ gallon of the valerian preparation is sprayed over the entire pile. Amazingly, this one set
of preparations can treat up to 15 tons of material as the work
is being done by non material means. Higher potency homeopathic remedies are similar in that the physical atoms of the mother
material are no longer present, but the effect of the forces are present and strengthened.
The preparations do have an observable effect on the fermentation process of the compost pile. They moderate the temperature curve of the thermophylic stage, by slightly slowing the temperature's ascent, keeping the peak temperature slightly lower and holding the warmth in the pile longer than when not using the preparations. The compost preparations assist in creating a finished compost with excellent humus structure.
The effect of the compost preparations continues when the compost is spread on the soil, making the soil more sensitive to cosmic rhythms (especially those of the planets and the moon). They also work in a myriad of ways to help balance life processes, especially in the way that fertility is made available to the plants.
The inspiration behind biodynamics and the initial indications for making and using the biodynamic preparations were given in a series of lectures given by Rudolf Steiner in 1924. These lectures are available in the book Agriculture, which is available in two translations. Other books recommended for further study of the biodynamic preparations include Grasp the Nettle, by Peter Proctor, and Manfred Klett's Principles of Biodynamic Spray and Compost Preparations. These titles and others are available through SteinerBooks.
The study of biodynamics can become a lifelong process with questions usually arising at a far greater rate than seemingly definitive answers. But there is a calm that can come from knowing that we don't know and realizing that we are all part of something far greater than ourselves.
Gardening Tools
While the technology of intensive gardening is simple, the techniques are sophisticated. The opposite can be said of an agriculture, which is dependent upon complicated and expensive machinery and chemicals, but simplifies the technique to the point of creating boring, alienating work routines and at the same time harmfully simplifies the ecology (monocultures, destruction of a wide range of fauna and flora).
The tools of gardening are ancient, not having changed substantially since the early Neolithic, when the first crops were deliberately planted and sowed. Even then the digging stick used as an all purpose tool for furrowing the ground for seeding, poking the ground for planting, weeding, and eventually harvesting tubers had a precursor in the ancient dibble stick with a fire-hardened tip, as used by Mesolithic hunters and gatherers as an extension of their fingers. The digging fork, spade, trowel, and eventually the plow derived from this ancient simple tool. The hoe, too, is an ancient tool found in nearly all horticultural societies, used for weeding, cultivating, aerating, and dry mulching the soil. Shells, bones, flat stones, and deer scapulae preceded the use of metal in the making of hoes. Rakes for smoothening the beds (and later harrows derived from the same principle) and blades (sickles, scythes, and knives) for harvesting and pruning are nearly as ancient and universal for gardeners and still make up the core technology of intensive horticulture.
The Tools One Needs for Successful Gardening
- A digging fork for double digging, harvesting potatoes, carrots, salsify, etc.; for turning compost; and also for loosening the soil in the beds at the beginning of each season
- A spade for double digging, trenching, chopping compost material, etc.
- A hoe for weeding, clearing, cultivating. The triangular hoe makes it possible to work close to the individual plants, and the stirrup, or pendulum, hoe, which can be dragged forwards and backwards between rows, reduces some of the toil. The ordinary hoe is also used for furrowing and for mounding up potatoes, peas, beans, leeks, fennel, corn, and tomatoes.
- A rake for smoothing the newly prepared beds and for sowing (making furrows, covering the seeds with earth, and pressing the soil firmly onto the seeds)
- Pegs, line, and measuring tape (or a yard stick) is used for marking the beds, rows, and paths. A nylon line will not rot.
- A trowel for transplanting seedlings (make sure that seedlings have been watered about thirty minutes before transplanting and that the hole dug for the seedling is deep enough so that the roots of the young transplants are not bent)
- A pitchfork is handy for pitching compost material, manure, and mulch.
- A wheelbarrow is needed for transporting earth, compost, mulch, lime, or tools.
- A sickle or scythe for harvesting grains, mowing grass, and cutting mulching and composting material. Working rhythmically with a well-sharpened scythe, one can smoothly and quickly mow large areas. It is definitely more relaxing and less costly that a fume-spewing, noisy lawnmower.
- Barrels for collecting and brewing Russian tea, nettles, comfrey, and other liquid fertilizers and preparations. Wood or crockery barrels are preferable to plastic or metal containers. Metal tends to chemically interact with the brews while plastic is not durable.
- Watering equipment includes a watering can with a sprinkler spout for the seedbeds, hoses, drip irrigation or soaker hoses for those plants that do not like water on their foliage (tomatoes, beans, and some other warm weather lovers), and overhead sprinklers. This might be the most expensive investment for the garden.
- Hand or knapsack sprayers for foliar feeding and application of preparations (such as horn-dung, horn-quartz, or valerian preparations)
- Plastic tents and their frames (easily made from willow or pine saplings or a PBC pipe) for covering early or late beds. Old plastic can be used to cover composts to prevent them from leaching and to trap the sun's heat for the compost.
- A hatchet might come in handy for cutting, sharpening, and driving bean poles, tomato stakes, and fence posts for pea and cucumber fences.
- A wooden mallet for driving in fence posts
- A pocketknife comes in handy for cutting ropes, sharpening pegs, pruning, and harvesting.
- A thinking cap! Ever wonder why the garden gnomes and dwarves always wear pointed caps? Proper concepts are as important as tools made of wood and steel.
As we see, garden technology is simple, quiet, and ancient. It does not lend itself readily to capital intensity, being invented and used long before money was ever even thought of. Usually it is only the gimmicks that cost a lot, and they are not really necessary. Advanced horticultural technology such as rototillers, mini-tractors, electrical compost tumblers, and compost shredders can be useful but are not absolutely necessary. This is true especially in smaller gardens where costs outweigh the benefits. Stalks, twigs, and haulms that are usually shredded can be chopped up with a spade and composted for a longer time, or they can be placed into the bottom of a newly double dug bed where they will have ample time to decompose. Double digging and raised beds generally preclude rototillers.
The work with ordinary garden tools is quiet and rhythmical, an activity conducive to achieving an open, receptive frame of mind. One can hear oneself think, so to speak, and one can meditatively apprehend the aliveness of the soil, the plants, and the many creatures with whom we share a garden. This frame of mind is necessary to be in empathy with the biological and ecological needs of the garden. By contrast, loud machinery and commotion close the gardener's chakras off from this important contact.
Gardens where people with simple tools but sophisticated techniques predominate instead of expensive machinery recreate a human environment for young and old. In Africa's hoe-agricultural societies, the fields are filled with song rather than motor din and fumes, as many people work the soil as a social activity.
Tool Care
Gardening tools are not expensive. However it is advisable to not buy the very cheapest ones, for often bargain basement tools break very quickly, whereas better wrought tools might last a lifetime. Though we live in a throwaway culture, replacing tools is going to cost more as our resources become more expensive. Like our forebears we should, once again, learn to respect and care for what we have and to make it last. Garden tools, for example, should not be left laying in the field over night. Exposure to rain or dew inevitably weakens the handles as microorganisms digest wood fiber and unprotected, moist metal rusts. Tools should be put into a tool shed clean and dry. The handles should be treated occasionally with boiled linseed oil so they will last; the metal tools should be greased before winter storage. Garden hoses and plastic tents should be put out of the sun and the elements when they are not in seasonal use, as should stakes, posts, and poles. Garden hoses should not be dragged in a way that kinks develop which will eventually weaken and crack them. After some time it is possible to even develop a fondness for one's long worn tools with their sweat stained handles, much as one has a liking for a favorite coffee cup or cooking pot. Here, too, it is possible to establish a personal, soul-filled relationship with one's world. The ancient Europeans even gave personal names to their favorite tools.